It's been done before, but it's all new to me...
Here is a consolidated list of parts based on my experience, reading various forums and talking
to local individuals that performed successful OEM (clean) looking installs.
Can you do it without some parts just to get it running? Sure you can, but it won't look as purdy
Parts for Swap:
Required High Port:
1 - Engine
1 - Fuel Rail (if bent from when the engine was pulled)
1 - Throttle Cable
1 - Cruise Control Cable
1 - Throttle/Cruise Control Cable Mounting Bracket (including bolts and grommets) if missing
1 - Metal Intake Manifold hose that goes to Power Brake Booster
1 - Rubber Brake Booster hose that goes from intake manifold to metal line on top of firewall
1 - EGR Tube Plug - goes below 02 sensor on #4 intake runner
1 - Power Steering suction hose that goes from PS Reservoir to PS pump
1 - Rubber Valve cover to Intake hose
1 - Rubber Intake manifold hose
Required Low Port:
2 - Coolant Temp Sensors - threaded bung-type fittings immediately under the intake plenums on the left side of the engine (right above the oil filter.)
1 - Engine Wire Harness
1 - Distributor
1 - ECU
General:
1 - Intake - Stock High Port (preferred), Low Port or Aftermarket
1 - 1000k/OHM resistor
1 - Oil Filter
(high port filter is different from low port)
4 - Spark Plugs
4 - Quarts Oil
4 - Quarts Transmission Fluid (I think it was 4, but I can't recall)
10 - Vacuum Caps
1 - Tube Oil Pan Gasket Sealant
1 - Can Degreaser
1 - Can Carb Cleaner
1 - Good set of gloves or a few boxes of Band Aids
1 - Case of Beer (
Coors Lite or
Yuengling)
Tools:
1 - Torque Wrench
1 - Set Metric Sockets
1 - Set Metric Wrenches
4 - VERY High Jack Stands or Engine Hoist
1 - Engine Hoist Leveller (if using hoist)
1 - Gasket Scraper / Removal Tool
1 - Hammer - repair oil pan dents
1 - Pry Bar - you WILL use it!
1 - Rubber Mallet or Dead Blow Hammer- you WILL use it!
Optional:
New Motor mounts
New Transmission Mount
New Valve Cover Gasket
New Front and Rear Main Seals
New Clutch Installation Instructions
Parts:
New Clutch
New Pilot Bearing
New Pressure Plate
New Throwout Bearing
New or Resurfaced Flywheel
New Transmission / Axle Seals
Power:
If going Turbo in the near future, now is the time to tap the block for the oil return line and plug
it up really good, or just install the turbo now
That reminds me, I really miss the boost from
my GTI, but it's time to move away from the father-land on to the land of the rising sun.
It all started when I had a 2002 GTI 1.8T and decided to replace it with 1997 200SX SE-R...
I purchased my SE-R from a Nissan new/used car lot in the Tampa area (NOB) back in
December 2004. The car had a little over 100k and was very clean, but had
a cut TPS harness and a small problem with hesitation that was never solved.
After keeping it stock for 8 months, I decided to add a G20 ECU, OBX header and
JWT S4 Cams. Even with new oil and a transmission fluid change, the car quickly
developed rod knock.
Over the last few months, I have had the opportunity to speak and work with
James (92_Sentra) and Jay Whitley. After owning an Accord Coupe, GS-R,
and GTI, their knowledge and patience have really kept me interested in my
SE-R. My knowledge of Nissan is very limited and I have had a lot of questions.
James was very influential in my acquision of a JDM motor and has made a little time
after work to come over and provide his experience and elbow grease. Jay is going
to be starting a new job in a week and has been very patent and generous in sharing
his vast knowledge of the SR20DE. Jay would have done the install if so many
other customers weren't ahead of me. This is my daily driver, so I'm on borrowed time
as it is. However, I would have given him the car without any hesitation if
this was not the case.
Current:
After trying for two weeks to get an engine from various sources, I was able to order
a used high port (from a JDM automatic donor car) for $450. It took a little over a week to arrive.
When the JDM engine arrived the USDM engine was pulled (this past Sunday) with the help of a
good friend, Dave. I'm working in a small one car garage and it's a real PITA to work on the car
with two KA24DE engines, two SR20DE engines, an engine hoist, and crap loads of car parts in
the same space. On top of that, my neighbours aren't too happy to see me working on a car. I
just injured my right eye working under the car (don't forget to use safety glasses,) so I can't
see a damn thing at night.
James came over with his good friend, Paul and we worked for a few hours on the car.
Paul was very patient and was able to install the Rear Main Seal in record time.
The hard part to finishing the rest of the swap is finding all the damn bolts that
are playing hide&seek...
Update:
The JDM motor has been cleaned in the essential areas, the CAM caps tightened back down,
the TB, intake manifold and part of the head were cleaned. A new water pump and Front
Main Seal were installed. The pulleys were swapped (not required) in addition to the power steering
and A/C brackets (required.)
The flywheel was resurfaced by Clutch City and looks great. We tried to wire in a 100k OHM resistor,
but the soldering iron was not cooperating.
Tomorrow:
I'll be finishing the resistor, installing the flywheel and bolting as much stuff on the
engine as I can.
Here is a link with a pick of the
CAMs
Here are some pics of the progress:
The Beginning:
Out She Comes:
Swapped pulleys and reinstalled TB:
KA24DE Drink Holder:
