Here's another little writeup for you all.
Seeing as there's no way to fit a full size battery in the engine compartment of my NX since I'm running a side mount IC, I needed a foolproof, daily driver reliable, remote mount setup. I used 1/0 cable so I wouldn't have to worry about starting my car in the middle of a New York winter. I used a circuit breaker out back to give me the convenience of killing power to the car when working on it, and I kept the stock battery tray because I'm thrifty
. Well that, and it's better than some flimsy plastic box.
I bought all my supplies at
www.knukonceptz.com. I highly recommend them, as they have great products and awesome prices. Everything I was able to find in various car forums confirms this, their reputation is flawless.
The flat black paint is temporary, I ran out of gloss.
Pictures have been moved to Picasa.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cscarpul...ery_Relocation
Starting at the front, I used a fused 3way distribution block.
The 1/0 cable is run along with the stock wire bundle through the fender.
Through the firewall grommet.
Inside the wire trough.
Under the rear seat, behind the side panel cover, and to a 150amp circuit breaker.
I modified the stock battery tray a bit, by cutting off the brackets that hold the relay box, and bolted it down through the floor.
The spade connectors I bought were huge, and they all needed some sort of massaging with the bench grinder. I used the stock negative terminal, modifying it a bit with an angle grinder and bench grinder.
And there you have it!
The battery connector has a 1/0 port, as well as an 4 gauge port, and provisions for a ring terminal.
That 4 gauge port will come in handy when I wire up the amp and Basslink.
Here's a comparison of the 1/0 to a 4 gauge wire. This stuff is BEAFY.
I had ordered Knuconceptz eko cable 1/0, but they ran out of it and substituted a more expensive cable, their Kollosus which is even larger than standard 1/0. Normally this would be a good thing, but fitting it in the wire trough along the driver side rail was an absolute bitch!
By the way, I bought 20 feet of wire for the positive side, and had
maybe 6 to 12 inches to spare. I'd suggest ordering 22 to 25 feet to be safe. For you weight conscious folks, the total weight of the parts used was between 8 and 9 pounds, which isn't too bad. I'm not concerned with weight in this car, as it's a daily driver.
Here's part numbers and pricing for everything.
Code:
BT-104P Positive Battery Terminal 1 $12.00 $12.00
KNF-23 KonFUSED 3 Way Distribution System (150A,30A,30A) 1 $19.99 $19.99
RT1/0516BK Gold Plated 1/0 Ring Terminal - Black 2 $1.75 $3.50
RT1/0516R Gold Plated 1/0 Ring Terminal -Red 2 $1.75 $3.50
eKo-0BL eKo Kable 1/0 Metallic Blue Power/Ground Cable 20 $1.85 $37.00
eKo-0PRL eKo Kable 1/0 Silver Pearl Power/Ground Cable 4 $1.85 $7.40
Sub Total: $83.39
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $9.99
Discount: $0.00
Total: $93.38
I bought the circuit breaker on eBay from Xstatic BatCap Central (user id ricktw) for $14.99 + $3.75 shipping which is a killer price.
http://stores.ebay.com/Xstatic-BatCap-Central
Here's the gallery with all the pics on the project.
http://sr20.net/gallery/Battery_Relocation
[edit 10/23/06]
I wouldn't recommend cutting off the original fusible links. I was never able to find out what their true ratings were, and it just complicated the install
C
