OK, here is my attempt at the write-up for installation.
1. Jack up the car according to the FSM, and remove both of the rear wheels.
2. To make it easier on me, I removed the "C" clip that holds in the e-brake cable. It is pretty straight-forward, I used a punch and hammer to slowly tap it out. Here is what I'm talking about
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3. Next on my hit list was to remove the keeper clip that holds the brake line to the damper. It isn't absolutely necessary to remove it, but it is pretty easy and gives you more room to allow the caliper to be moved about
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4. Now it is time to remove the rear caliper. I used a 17mm wrench on the top, as it is pretty tight to get a ratchet behind the caliper and in front of the damper. Don't forget there is a 17mm bolt on the bottom also - remove it in the same manner:
5. With the caliper free, I removed the e-brake cable from the bracket and the actual caliper. No picture, but by removing the keeper in #3 you have more room to adjust to unhook the cable.
6. The dust shield needs removed from the assembly. I had already removed mine previously, so I did not have to worry about it. P@ has a good write up on removing it in his P10 write up found
Here. You can follow his method, or take the 1/2 assed way - my way.
For most of us, those 3 little bolts are going to be frozen, so I didn't even take off the rear hub assembly. I grabbed the head of the screw with a pair of Visegrips, tightened down, and tried to loosen them. The heads of all of mine snapped right off which freed the dust shield, which I then cut in half with some tin snips. It might be a little faster doing it this way, but make sure you have sharp tin snips or equal.
7. Time to mount the dogbone.
Make sure and install the top bolt into the hole before installing the dogbone onto the hub; if you forget, you'll have to take it back off. Use the stock bolts, but just turn them 180* around and thread them into the dogbone -
remove the top lock washer before installing the bolt on both sides (driver & passenger) otherwise the caliper will be crooked, per P@. Torque them down pretty tight, or look up the actual torque value in the FSM - I just made them pretty tight.
As you can see, I left the stock caliper connected to the brake line for now.
8. Now it is time to deal with the P10 calipers. I bought remaned calipers, so I didn't have to rebuild them, but it is up to you.
No matter what, you will need the P10 rear e-brake brackets. Occasionally, you can find them in the for sale section; but the remaned calipers will not come with them. Mount the P10 e-brake bracket to the P10 caliper.
Before mounting the caliper to the dogbone, it is necessary to do some grinding on the passenger slider bracket:
That is only required on the passenger side. The reason is that the casting number will hit the head of the bolt that was flipped 180* and not allow the caliper to sit straight. I started to use a hand file to grind it down, but just use a Dremel or a grinder - much faster and easier.
9. Once your grinding is complete, set the P10 calipers onto the rotor and install the bolts that P@ provides with the kit. I found it is easier to pull the rotor out just a little bit to give you more room to see as you thread the bolt into the caliper. As the caliper is pulled in-board, slowly push the rotor farther onto the lug nuts. You can see how the bolts aren't fully seated yet:
10. Once the caliper is bolted to the dogbone, I moved to the e-brake cable. No hints on this, you will just have to fish the "eye" through the bracket. After it is connected to the cable, the cable will have to be tugged on to get it through the e-brake bracket and seated. Once seated, re-install the keeper that you removed in #2. Might be able to see what I'm talking about
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The e-brake cable will sit at a slightly different angle now, but it functions just fine.
On the passenger side, the cable wanted to hit my exhaust (3"); so I thought about what to do. The easiest thing is to push the cable up onto the “lip” of the gas tank. It keeps it away from the exhaust, and it doesn’t seem like it wants to go anywhere after that – watch your fingers because it pinched mine between the cable and the lip and hurt like hell. Like this:
One other thing to help you with the e-brake cable is to loosen the bracket, and then you can move it around easier to get the cable set in the recessed area. Once the cable is in, tighten down the bracket and install the keeper – this method should make it easier on both sides not just the passenger side.
11. Unbolt the banjo bolt from the B13 caliper, and bolt it to the P10 caliper according to the FSM – don’t forget new copper washers on top and bottom of the banjo bolt.
12. Now just re-install the keeper on the damper that was removed in step #3, and you should look something like this:
13. Time to bleed the system according to the FSM with some good fluid, and re-install your wheels. Take the car off of jack-stands, and test out the brakes.
Good luck, and let me know if I didn’t cover something as clear as needed.
Josh
