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Supposedly like Ground Controls, around 300lbs or something. Drop like 1" or so last I heard. Not looking very promising at this point, but still looking into it.
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98 se-r w/ p/r cai, stillen header, courtesy exhaust, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, NOS nitrous kit, eibach springs, kyb struts, st sways, cusco camber plates, f/r strut braces, lotsa bushings, and a bunch of other crap not really worth mentioning
keeping novtec on his feet (and up to the top again)
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98 se-r w/ p/r cai, stillen header, courtesy exhaust, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, NOS nitrous kit, eibach springs, kyb struts, st sways, cusco camber plates, f/r strut braces, lotsa bushings, and a bunch of other crap not really worth mentioning
Been trying to figure out how this really works. I may very well be misunderstanding it, but all this seems to do is move the shock piston out of the shock just a little more. Wish I could remember what all the parts are up there at the top to know what it really did. Again I really can't remember what all the parts are at the top of the assembly, how they go together, and how this does anything but simply use a different section of the shock's travel, but the same size of travel. Is it reversible? Since you cut that top rubber piece in half, can you put it back without repercussion?
------------------ Ben98SentraSE
98 Sentra SE TURBO
Ben,
Do you have the picture of the rear shock/spring assembly in your FSM? Go to that page.
Remember that cutting the bumpstop and the shock rod bushing have NO EFFECT on the spring mounting points, and therefore have no effect on ride height.
Our suspension travel is limited by the shock hitting the bumpstop. Look at the picture, and visualize how removing 1/2" from the bumpstop gives the shock more travel. Now look at the shock rod bushing. Cut it in half, and picture the effect it has on the bumpstop.
Cutting it in half effectively moves the bumpstop away from the shock by the same amount. Therefore, you have more suspension travel before you hit the bumpstops.
All the washers do is make sure you have enough threads to tighten the shock rod.
Nothing else (I think).
Now I have a question. Is the only point to having the shock rod bushing to prevent noise from metal to metal contact between the bound bumper cover and the shock absorber mounting bracket??
When I did my suspension upgrade (Eibach pro kit w/ KYB AGX) with what I did in the rear when cutting out donuts was that I cut the middle 1 out, then used black silicon to 'glue' the 2 pieces back together. So far its holding up. I did this back in October. Looks really nice too
Don't have an FSM Jacen. Took Courtesy forever to get me one so I said nevermind. Plus Brandon Fujisage was awesome enough to scan and email me many pages of the 98 FSM, of which were little to no use. Pictures are nice though
I will look in my Haynes manual to see if there is a pic of the assembly in there. If it was warm enough I would just take it all apart and do it, but that is not so
------------------ Ben98SentraSE
98 Sentra SE TURBO
I'll stick with my original thought. I think this simply repositions the strut shaft DOWN a half an inch or so. The top and bottom spring perches move NOWHERE, so the travel doesn't change.
Well, I take that back. You gain that much travel at the EXTENDED end of the travel of the suspension, when you go airborne and the wheel gap is truck-like . The compressed travel would be at the same place, where the strut body hits the bumpstop.
Comments? Agree/disagree?
------------------ Ben98SentraSE
98 Sentra SE TURBO
see whats funny is that I never even cut anything in the rear. I should do something though.
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98 se-r w/ p/r cai, stillen header, courtesy exhaust, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, NOS nitrous kit, eibach springs, kyb struts, st sways, cusco camber plates, f/r strut braces, lotsa bushings, and a bunch of other crap not really worth mentioning
