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Old 01-19-2008, 05:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
DC Scotty
NX Cruiser

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Join Date: Feb 2006
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Thats what I just did.. Tested everything in the list to see if in-spec.. Everything is fine.. The idle is still high (900-960-ish) & screw turned all the way in.

As for the setting Idle & timing, done that a cajillion times on Nissans/Infiniti's. Its easy for me cause I dont need to do the rain dance; I have a Consult cable to put in timing mode!! Thus, car at operating temp, unplug TPS, start car, clear learning mode, put in timing mode, set it to 850, set timing to 15deg (in that order). Turn off car, hookup everything, take for a test drive.. Same, same results...

Note: I set the idle to 850 by using an old trick of adding load & disconnecting the AAC. With the idle then lowered enough, I could properly set the timing exactly at 15deg.

I replaced the main IACV unit last summer (one with the screw). Installed the updated design one with the spring in it (my original IACV didnt have the spring). The IACV unit contains 1. FICD, 2. AAC and idle screw. Last week, I installed a new 3. IACV/Air Regulator (thinking my old one maybe stuck open; it wasnt). No improvements. All three checked & tested today!

Checked the Idle screw for blockage; clean.

Spent the entire day testing All of my sensors and they are dead-on spec, as follows:

1. TPS - closed throttle= 0.46v, WOT= 4.0 exactly, Ohms closed= 2ohm, Ohms WOT=10.8, CTP has continuity and shows both open & closed
2. Camshaft Position Sensor - Show 5v at 180deg signal position and fluctuates as its turns between 1-5v
3. IACV/AAC - resistance = 10ohms
4. IACV/FICD - Clicks when 12v is applied to terminals
5. IACV/Air Regulator - resistance = 78ohms across terminals
6. Knock Sensor = 551Kohms across terminals
7. Checked Electronics & AAC fuses = both were fine but put new ones in to be thorough
8. MAS Air Sensor = switch on/engine off - 0.65v, idling warm engine-1.64v, ground 4mv (.004v)
9. Igniton coil - term 1 & 2 = .98ohm, teminals 1 & 3 = 10.02 ohm
10. O2 sensor - term 1 & 3 = 8ohms
11. Power Transistor - Good test for Pos/Neg (+/-) meter connections = A+B, A+C = infinite AND B+A, B+C, C+A, C+B = not infinite or 0
12. Engine Coolant Temp Sensor - 68deg = 2.2ohm, 122deg = 0.81 ohm, and 176deg = 0.31ohm
13. Power Steering Oil Pressure Switch - Turning wheel = Continuity, Not Turning = no continuity
14. PCV valve - shake = rattles; blow into threaded side = air flows thru; blow into hose side = no air thru
15. EGR & Canister Control Solenoid Valve - resistance = 33ohms; apply 12v power = air passes thru top 2 valves; remove 12v = air passes thru middle & bottom valves
16. Fuel Injector in order 1-4 = 11.3, 11.4, 11.4, 11.3 ohms
17. Egr & EGR pipe - Removed; blockoff kit = no leaks (soapy water test)
18. SSAC header, secondary, cat & bungs connections - No leaks (soapy water test)
19. AIV & BPT = Removed
20. Intake mani leak test - Sprayed throttle cleaner all around spacers & hoses = no idle changes (and I didnt blow myself up.. hehe)
21. Check vacuum hoses - all the ones on the top.. replaced with silicon hoses in the fall = no leaks or cracks.. bottom ones under intake mani ???? . . . dont know - will crawl under there tomorrow!

Did I leave a test out?? Did the 21 Gun SR20DE Test Salute today!! Its Beer time! ! !

Im freaking lost.. Pulling the damn IACV tomorrow to see if its clogged blocked after just 6 months! And will probably do a fuel pressure test (filter changed Spring 2007)

And Yepp... I get kinda anal about detail electronic test and recording/keeping the results (its the electronic engineer in me).
__________________
1993 NX2000 -- JDM DE, ActiveTuning Grnd Kit & RSTB, Cusco FSTB, Progress Rear Swaybar, Hyperco/AGX,
Full SS 2.5" VRS SS Catback, SSAC 2.5" header/downpipe, JWT Pop-Charger, EDM Headlamp, Yellow Fogs, & Power Leather Seats.

Last edited by DC Scotty : 01-20-2008 at 05:24 PM. Reason: corrections
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