A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
Depends on the vacuum connection in question. After talking with the head guy (don't remember his name) at RRE, he offered to name a vacuum hose kit after me like he did with the DSM one on their site if I could come up with the lengths and diameters of tubing in question. Let me dig through my notes to see what I can come up with.
-Andy
that would be great... seems to me that there are only a few sizes needed, the one from WG to the throttle body and bov is 6mm or ~1/4in. I think the The small length from the FPR to throttle body and boost gauge is 3mm or ~1/8in, but it might be 4mm or 3/16in? That one i am not sure about. Then the 8mm for the VC to vaccuum line, and the ones all in that area, which you didnt replace.
that would be great... seems to me that there are only a few sizes needed, the one from WG to the throttle body and bov is 6mm or ~1/4in. I think the The small length from the FPR to throttle body and boost gauge is 3mm or ~1/8in, but it might be 4mm or 3/16in? That one i am not sure about. Then the 8mm for the VC to vaccuum line, and the ones all in that area, which you didnt replace.
You are mostly on target here, and I think the FPR line is 4mm.
Which ones I didn't replace? Are you referring to the fuel line stuff? If yes, that shouldn't be silicone as it's not fuel-friendly.
You are mostly on target here, and I think the FPR line is 4mm.
Which ones I didn't replace? Are you referring to the fuel line stuff? If yes, that shouldn't be silicone as it's not fuel-friendly.
I'll dig something up and make a post on Sunday.
alright thanks. Yes, the fuel lines or vacuum, whatever they do. also, what did you use the bottom nipple on the tb for?
I found my notes, but need to re-run some tubing before I give you a concrete number. I will post something tomorrow night after I get back from the shop.
Sorry about the formatting, but I'm not aware of a table feature that would make this easier...
SILICONE VACUUM LINES From - To - Size - Length
1) Top Left TB barb - FPR - 4mm - 8.5” (see Note 1)
2) Top Right TB barb - Boost Pressure sender - 6mm - 32” (see Note 2)
3) Bottom TB barb - stock SMIC BOV barb - 4mm - 46”
4) WG Actuator - stock Hotpipe barb - 6mm - 19”
5) Intake manifold barb - Brake Booster check valve - 8mm - 26” (see Note 3)
6) Brake Booster check valve - Brake Booster barb - 8mm - 15” (see Note 3)
7) Fuel Rail vacuum line - Valvecover barb - 8mm - ? (see Note 4)
MISC SILICONE LINES From - To - Size - Length
Radiator overflow barb - OE overflow tank - 8mm - ?
AEROQUIP FUEL LINES (see Note 5) From - To - Size - Length
Fuel supply line (from rear) - Fuel Filter - (-4AN) - 4.5”
Fuel Filter - Fuel Rail - (-4AN) - 9.5”
FPR - Fuel return line (to rear) - (-4AN) - 19.5”
Note 1: The stock tubing tees off of this line to head toward the stock boost control solenoid as
follows: up the stock cold pipe, across the front of the fan shroud, then back to the USDM driver’s side strut tower. The fan shroud assembly has a tray built in where the tubing could be attached using the plastic “channels.”
Note 2: This length will vary based on where you have the boost pressure sender, if at all. The
stock length for this tubing is an unknown to me, as I never measured it. I will do my best to find a running, close-to-stock SR to get this measurement. If you have this setup, please let me know so I can complete the list.
Note 3: The 26” and 15” lengths from #5 and #6 can effectively be combined for a total length of
41”. The brake booster check valve was placed close to where the stock setup had it, but I doubt its placement is that critical. I should also add that the stock rubber piping could have been used, but I decided to go ahead and replace it since I had some 8mm left over. If you go this route, make absolutely sure you install the check valve as it was oriented in stock form.
Note 4: After some research, it appears that silicone has “poor” compatibility with both oil and
gasoline, both of which could potentially pass through this line. I am in the process of locating a suitable replacement material.
Note 5: Aeroquip FC332-04 (or FBV0400) socketless push-on hose. The fuel barbs are 8mm,
which converts to 0.315”, but I had to choose the -4AN with an I.D. of 0.25” since -6AN would have been too large at 0.38” I.D. I was unable to simply push it on, but instead had to use a heat gun to expand it enough to fit it over the barbs. I would recommend wearing heavy gloves as the hose tends to get hot, and would further suggest using clean ones as I dirtied up the hose significantly using my dad’s dirty welding gloves.
Last edited by Shift_Munky : 01-04-2006 at 09:15 AM.
wow man, i appreciate it. Im sure a lot of people can use that info
I hope so. When I talked with RRE's owner on the phone one day and asked if they had a kit spec'ed for the 240-SR, he said no but mentioned that he'd name it after me if I could supply the lengths and diameters to him. He's done this with an Eclipse (they're mostly a DSM shop frmo what I can tell), and extended the same courtesy to me. All I have to do now is find a stock SR and take a couple of measurements and I'll be golden.
I hope so. When I talked with RRE's owner on the phone one day and asked if they had a kit spec'ed for the 240-SR, he said no but mentioned that he'd name it after me if I could supply the lengths and diameters to him. He's done this with an Eclipse (they're mostly a DSM shop frmo what I can tell), and extended the same courtesy to me. All I have to do now is find a stock SR and take a couple of measurements and I'll be golden.
that would be sweet... i can take measurements of mine then too and compare. I was reading through this a little closer and thought id post how mine run for anyone else who cares.
1) Top Left TB barb - FPR - 4mm
2) Top Right TB barb - T25 Wastegate - 6mm
note: runs across front of VC under the CAS to the WG
3) Bottom TB barb - capped
- can i run this to the bov?
4) WG Line - T off - Greddy RS bov - 4mm
that would be sweet... i can take measurements of mine then too and compare. I was reading through this a little closer and thought id post how mine run for anyone else who cares.
Please do take length measurements. I need them if no one else does.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsn240
2) Top Right TB barb - T25 Wastegate - 6mm
note: runs across front of VC under the CAS to the WG
I thought you had to run the line from the WG actuator to the hotpipe nipple.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsn240
3) Bottom TB barb - capped
- can i run this to the bov?
I was told by a reliable source that all vacuum nipples off the TB provide the same signal, so you can use any of them for anything.
Much needed loot from a Lowe's gift certificate from Mom and Pops:
Farking around with some leftover 4mm silicone tubing and the SMIC:
Removing some excess from the dash:
This was primarily to make installation and removal easier, as this portion interferes with the steering column. Since I'm not using the bezel, it isn't need anyways. Weight savings wasn't a primary driver as the removed plastic probably weighs less than Lindsey Lohan after a good purge.
GReddy Warning gauge mounts installed:
Cutting the hole for the gauge wiring:
I used a routing bit in an airtool to accomplish this. It came out much cleaner than the other one where I tried to drill pilot holes with a drill bit.
FPR 4mm vacuum line:
Boost Pressure sender line under intake mani:
Also a good shot of the majority of vacuum tubing.
SMIC BOV 4mm vacuum line off the bottom TB nipple:
Brake booster check valve:
Since I was missing the OE hose from the valve to the intake manifold, I decided to use silicone. Looks blingy, and'll outlast the rubber.
Good engine bay shot:
You can see most of the brake booster vacuum line on the firewall.
Haha, I drift in and out of your conversation every now and then. but I usually just sit in my chair nodding without saying anything.
__________________
-Ali CarDomain myspace
XBOX Live Gamertag:SR204G63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
A lot of people go through life doing things badly. Racing's important to men who do it well. When you're racing, it...it's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting.
Haha, I drift in and out of your conversation every now and then. but I usually just sit in my chair nodding without saying anything.
Ha, "my conversation," as in with myself. I think the nodding thing must be more prevalent than the posting thing. Meh, oh well. As long as you guys are enjoying it. If not, I only have this to add:
Last edited by Shift_Munky : 01-13-2006 at 01:22 PM.
That hose coming from the T-stat housing to the hardline (above the oil filter) needs to be OEM. With it bent like that, it's guaranteed to leak in no time, don't ask me how I know...
