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ha, i was just about to post about that bottom tb vaccuum nipple, i pulled all that charcoal/aiv/boost oem junk off of my friends clip the other day. As you said though, if all the tb vac sources give equal pressure, you could run the bov off of the bottom one... where does you top right (bov t'd off of it) line go too? back around the block?
It goes to the GReddy boost pressure sending unit on the firewall.
what did you use you the wastegate vac source then? Im pretty sure that the pressure sender unit is T'd off of the FPR line, thats how everyone i know has theres setup... then that line off the top right nipple goes to the WG and T to the bov
sorry im asking so many questions, im tryin to help and learn the best i can
what did you use you the wastegate vac source then? Im pretty sure that the pressure sender unit is T'd off of the FPR line, thats how everyone i know has theres setup... then that line off the top right nipple goes to the WG and T to the bov
sorry im asking so many questions, im tryin to help and learn the best i can
The WG is plumbed to the hotpipe per some vacuum diagrams I've found online. Since the stock boost control solenoid has been removed, it's only one line with no tees.
People normally have the sender teed off the FPR line as you mentioned and the top right TB source to the SMIC BOV, but I changed things up a bit. The FPR tubing is 4mm, as is the BOV. The barbs are actually 5mm, but 4mm fits better than 6. Because of this, I decided to try teeing off the FPR line as opposed to using reducers and creating more potential leak points. I'm only hoping the top right and top left nipples provide the same vacuum source.
was it very hard to put the fuse boxes under the dash inthe car email me a reply i know its just mainly shorting wire and what not...
I'll reply here so others can read, and email you to alert you to my response...
It depends on your definition of "hard," really. It was mainly the following:
1) Unhooking everything
For me this wasn't hard, as hardly anything was left in the engine bay. Most things were unhooked when I bought the car, and the remainder were unhooked and labeled for purposes of future identification.
2) Loosen harness(es) from chassis
Separate the harness from the chassis as much as possible by clipping wire ties/securing clips. If you want to reuse them, you need to be a little more careful about how you disengage them. Usually a couple of straight pick tools will do the trick do disengage the clip from the harness, then needlenose pliers to remove the clip from the chassis.
3) Unwrap the harness(es)
This is the messy part, as you’ll get electrical tape residue all over your hands. However, it comes off with a little WD-40. After removing the tape you’ll have to cut zip ties and other securing devices to complete remove the split loom tubing.
4) Determine wires to keep
This will in large part be determined by your accessory use. The more accessories you keep, the harder it is to justify moving the harness and fuseboxes. I didn’t need headlights, and this freed up quite a bit. Considering however that a lot of wires run from the driver’s side of the cabin into the engine bay, across the front, and back into the cabin on the passenger’s side, you can shorten every bit of this as long as you retain all relays, etc.
5) Determine locations for remaining stuff
You will need to figure out where to put the wiring and fusebox(es). My preference for a street car would be to move it all underneath the dash and locate the fusebox(es) in the glove compartment.
6) Do the work
Cut and pull all wires to be relocated, remove the dash, shorten and reconnect. I’m making it sound much easier than it actually is however, as each wire should be resoldered and heat-shrinked.
IMO this is too much work to do for a street car or even a weekend autocross car. If you can start removing A/C, PS and other major accessories since it isn’t daily driven, you’ll start to see greater benefit from doing this work. Considering you still have to get the wire into the engine bay for the various engine components, it doesn’t make much sense to undertake the work if you’re not going to remove a bunch of chit first. Not having headlights was one of the single biggest saves in terms of wire, relays, fuses, etc.
I can comment more fully once I find out what your goals are for the car.
thanks for the reply...gave me alot of info...im mainly just wanting to drive it on the weekends.... but clean up the engine bay alot first bein those fuse boxes but if its gonna be way to much work for nothing then i might reconsider thanks...
Woah I'm really really sorry about that, some stupid kid in my class put that up while I was away from the computer and I just saw it today, honest.... I have these kids in class that don't appreciate any imports, no matter how cleanly done....They're rather close minded...and retarded....but never mind, I didn't write that....
Woah I'm really really sorry about that, some stupid kid in my class put that up while I was away from the computer and I just saw it today, honest.... I have these kids in class that don't appreciate any imports, no matter how cleanly done....They're rather close minded...and retarded....but never mind, I didn't write that....
i almost had that happen to me the other night in my automotive class...lol i cought them in the ack though
Sorry guys, but I have been hella-busy with work recently, and only just downloaded the pictures from my camera last night while I was working, a whole 9 days later.
I hope to have them uploaded here in the next week or so. Hopefully work'll slow down by that point. I would do it this weekend, but I'm going to be at VIR!
Quote:
Originally Posted by rushmatic
yea... whats goin on?
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackb13se-r
ditto...
Well, I just ate some homemade chili, and now I have to poop really bad. Updates later!
If yes, do you have a P/N for it? I've looked everywhere, including at the FWD SR's, and never found anything.
I'd really like to rework that line to make it cleaner, more reliable, etc., but decided to leave that alone until such point as I decide to ditch the heater core.
Yup.
Send the picture to Greg V (GregV@mossy.com) and ask him for one. He should be able to get you one.
!!!!!!! 
dead SR20VE-T 
"I stays breakin stuff" 
