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Reinstalling the gas filler cover with new plastic "rivets":
AGX's turned around the "right" way:
After a note from Algie, I realized I had them turned around the wrong way. The layout of the lower perch confirms this, as it's chamfered such that it meshes with the post coming off the spindle. Having the adjustment dial on the inside makes it so I can adjust the damping without having to take the wheel off.
An interior shot before Jordan started on the wiring:
Some sound deadening and sealant removal:
SMIC side shot:
It's hanging by the hoses only in this picture while I figure out a way to hardmount it.
Using a modified bracket:
This bracket came off of Bryson's S14 and had to be modified to fit. Turns out it places the IC too close to the wheel. Back to the drawing board!
Jordan actually working:
He's using the heatgun on some heatshrink tubing, while connecting the rear harness.
The (mostly) finished product:
I may have to remove the adhesive-backed ziptie pieces to clean up some more sound deadening and sealant, then add them back after a lil paint.
Haha, that rear harness is TINY. How much weight in removed wiring do you think you pulled out?
The car is coming along VERY nicely bro. I wish I could have done something like this to my car.
__________________
Blair
93 P10
"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." - Jeremiah 29:11 (NIV)
Yeah dude, since the car's a dedicated race car, there should only be like, 6 or 7 wires going to the back of the car.
And judging from the stock harness's thickness, I'd say at least the weight of a full engine harness, which is around 5 to 10 pounds? (never weighed it)
The car is coming along VERY nicely bro. I wish I could have done something like this to my car.
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsn240
updates?
I worked on the car today, and will work on it some more tomorrow. Pics should be posted by mid-week at the latest.
Quote:
Originally Posted by blairellis
Haha, that rear harness is TINY. How much weight in removed wiring do you think you pulled out?
Not much "thinking" to it, really: my S13 Weight Savings Guide. Third line item from the bottom, and I have pictures too. 25.8 pounds of wiring savings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoSideways
Yeah dude, since the car's a dedicated race car, there should only be like, 6 or 7 wires going to the back of the car.
The weight saving guide is cracking, makes for some very interesting reading (especially the looms! )
You've shown a weight saving of 41lbs for your exhaust, is that (A) the weight of the old exhaust minus the weight of the new one or (B)
the total weight of the old exhaust?
It seems like a huge saving, I was wondering what material the new exhaust is if it's A
Cheers
Alg
__________________
1999 S14a 200SX
See here for spec (it's quite a long list!)
The weight saving guide is cracking, makes for some very interesting reading (especially the looms! )
Yeah, crazy to think one can save that much from removing wiring, fuse panels, relays, etc. I actually shaved a good bit off the SR harnesses as well, but I'm unsure as to whether I will weigh that or not.
And "cracking?" Does that mean it's cool?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Algie
You've shown a weight saving of 41lbs for your exhaust, is that (A) the weight of the old exhaust minus the weight of the new one or (B)
the total weight of the old exhaust?
It seems like a huge saving, I was wondering what material the new exhaust is if it's A
That weight is for the stock catback exhaust. Once I get the new chit in, I will subtract it and post the new number on the site. Right now plans are simply to have the downpipe to a straight pipe with a downturn after 2 - 2.5 feet (enough to get it behind the driver). If this does not pass sound regulations for SCCA Solo II or track use, I will add a resonator in-line.
More pix from yesterday and today will be posted in the next few days. Stay tuned!
I'd be interested to see what the overall weight saving is when you're finished,
Are you going to put her on corner weights and see what th efinal result id?
As it sounds like you've seen on my weight savings page, the listed total is 350 pounds. I probably have another 30-50 sitting around waiting to be weighed and added to the list. Currently I don't have a scale that I trust, and the last thing I'd want to do is misrepresent the actual weight savings. Especially since people use it as a resource, myself included.
I will add a little bit back for the exhaust when I have it designed, but I seriously doubt it'll weigh more than 10 pounds. I'm not including the DP because the stock exhaust I removed did not include the stock "2:1 pipe."
I will have it corner-weighted in the sense that I will stick a scale under each corner, yes. Since there is no height adjustment that needs to be done to balance the car, it's not technically "corner-weighting." On an interesting side note, I am a strong advocate of real corner-weighting after having it done to my E36 M3. I installed Tein SS coilovers and meticulously matched perch heights, and the car handled well. But it was a night and day difference in handling after I had it corner-weighted. So the lesson for the day is this: if you're going to add coilovers to your car, get it corner-weighted!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Algie
Cracking = good, I think it derives from the Gaelic 'Craic' (pronounced Crack) which is to have a good/entertaining time.
Thank you for the etymological lesson.
Last edited by Shift_Munky : 03-27-2006 at 10:50 AM.
Interesting that you are a big advocate of corner weighing, it's not cheap but I'm looking to get mine done before the summer track season starts over here.
I've got a set of Tein Flex on the car and it seems daft going to the expense of fitting them and then not setting the car up properly
Keep up th good work Andy, this is a cracking thread and I'm feeding alot of the info back to the SXOC UK forum
Interesting that you are a big advocate of corner weighing, it's not cheap but I'm looking to get mine done before the summer track season starts over here.
I've got a set of Tein Flex on the car and it seems daft going to the expense of fitting them and then not setting the car up properly
Exactly. If you're going to spend $800 - 2,000 on coilovers, why not spend the $120-ish to get it corner-weighted? The shop I went to charges $60/hour and it took around 2 hours.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Algie
Keep up th good work Andy, this is a cracking thread and I'm feeding alot of the info back to the SXOC UK forum
Alg
Thanks. Please let me know if you blokes come up with any more tips.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBredline
you already have 10k droped in this car and your not even done yet...... nice project man
New fuel pump screws in place:
After posting the previous picture where I only have 5, I received some advice from a guy on FA that this will leak. $12-ish later for 6 screws () and a short bit of effort later, and I'm good to go.
Samco upper radiator hose in place with SS t-bolt clamps:
Samco lower radiator hose in place:
Notice the tight fit with the stock radiator. The tension rod brace and stock radiator construction made this slightly difficult to install. This would obviously not been as much of a concern had it been a wormgear clamp instead of a t-bolt one.
Shot of the stock turbo extension:
I was going to install the DP, but realized I didn't have the gasket.
Russell SS braided brake lines:
I only got around to the rear this time, and will do the front next time. I had trouble with the clips that hold the flexible line into the bracket, as they didn't want to stay even after using a hammer and punch. Any advice on these?" Do I need to replace them with new units? I seemed to have more luck when I squeezed the two "prongs" together before reinstallation.
Removing piping and MAF to cut SMIC hole larger:
Bleeding the clutch:
As I feared when I bent the hardline to eliminate the damper box, I damaged it the point where it leaked when I tried to bleed the system. This time I'll use a tubing bender off the car rather than two combination wrenches while it's on the car.
Some more sound deadening removal:
After trying unsuccessfully to bleed the clutch and install the DP, and not having planned well enough to finish the gauge wiring, I decided to focus the remaining effort on the deadening. Luckily my younger cousin Trey was in town and was able to help with this while I cursed at the brake clips.
Next steps:
1) Plan out and finish the guage wiring, including the warning panel
2) Add coolant / water / Water Wetter mixture
3) Install pads, front lines, and bleed brakes
4) Install driveshaft, MT-90, and shifter
5) Mount SMIC using custom bracket
6) Some other chit I'm currently forgetting
The attachment clips have an arch to them which holds them in place via spring tension. I usually have to re-arch them to make them fit tight again.
Understood, thanks. I am going to price them at the stealership, and will liekly buy 4 new ones if they're reasonable. I need to buy some other brake hardware anyways, so...
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1991 Nissan 240SX Hatchback
1971 Datsun 240Z, In the original first 50,000 built
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!!!!!!! 
dead SR20VE-T 
"I stays breakin stuff" 
