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Well, I'd consider parting with it if you're interested. Send a PM.
Okay, I'll PM you. Heading down to Charlotte on Tuesday as a matter of fact, driving my S13 convertible. Actually going to Concord, then on over to the beach for a few days.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shift_Munky
Day-amn...where do you get a loaner like that?!?!?!
It's good to have friends at the beach. Like...right next door.
Bottom back of the manual window mechanism:
In case you’ve never looked at the difference between the manual and power windows before, it appears that even the door chassis itself is different. The mounting studs for the manual mechanism are different than those of the power one. Fortunately for me, the manual window mechanism had holes for the studs as they are located in my door. I had to put the studs through the existing holes and attach a fastener on the back. This picture shows the power window stud locations where the threaded pieces tack-welded to the frame. Above and to the right of the leftmost one is where I added a fastener. If you look above the other threaded piece, you’ll see the other hole I was going to use to secure the mechanism to the door. Unfortunately, there’s a cable in the way, so I had to settle for 3 out of 4 fasteners.
Manual window mechanism installed:
If you look at this picture, you’ll notice a spot where the window handle could have gone. When I originally started gutting the door, I thought I was going to somehow affix the window in the up position. After a lot of poking around and thinking, I finally came to the conclusion that using the manual window mechanisms was the best route until I could remove the glass when I cage the car.
Current method of securing the crank mechanism:
If I thought I’d spend more time rolling the windows up and down, I would have found a way to secure it better. But the only time I’ll need to operate them is before and after a race, or when the car has to be stored outside. So for now, this is good enough for me.
Piece of 24” x 48”, 0.063" thick Alloy 5086 Aluminum:
Ordered from McMaster Carr and cut locally for free. I have a 8” x 24” strip leftover that I plan to use elsewhere (a radiator block-off plate, maybe?).
Getting an initial idea of how it fits on the car:
It looks like I’ll have to fillet the corners more than I thought based on the roof curvature.
Is the roof made of aluminum? I didnt know you could join the two aluminum and steel together. Must be some kind of crazy filler rod Ive never heard of if thats the case
__________________
Blair
93 P10
"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." - Jeremiah 29:11 (NIV)
Is the roof made of aluminum? I didnt know you could join the two aluminum and steel together. Must be some kind of crazy filler rod Ive never heard of if thats the case
Quote:
Originally Posted by McCoy
^^^ he could use liquid nails
The plan is to use clear silicone sealant and rivet it to the roof.
Quote:
Originally Posted by McCoy
The project is looking good, can't wait to see some track video...
Thanks. In due time...I hope to have it running by August.
Shaping the 40" x 24" piece:
The circular plate is being used to fillet the corners.
After cutting with a cutoff wheel, cleaning the rough edges, and using a deburring wheel:
Holes drilled and surface roughed-up for silicone adhesion:
Roof also roughed-up:
Riveted in place, after some effort:
This was more trouble than I thought it'd be, as the piece had to bend a little more than I thought, and the silicone dried much faster than expected. I also had an issue with the roof separating from the aluminum, and not riveting together like I wanted:
This is one of two places that gave me trouble after everything else was in place. The other place is the passenger side front corner, but I think I can use a large c-clamp to get the aluminum and roof to sit flush before riveting.
After some stripping and swapping out the window mechanism:
The manual handle mechanism didn't seem to stretch to where it looked like it should have been, even with some repositioning.
Driver’s door, finished with gutting:
Cleaning up the floor a little:
Driver’s seat installed:
Driver’s door and passenger seat installed:
Looks like a dropped baby:
Another view of the roof skin:
It turns out this was the only place leaking (see 482.jpg below).
After a wash:
I also did this to see where the water was leaking, and discovered a few:
The windows don’t bother me as much because there isn’t a lot to be done I think, and I will fix the sunroof one next time I go in.
Good picture of it lining up:
I installed the latches using the chitty APC hood pins since I planned on putting the new ones in the same place. This allowed me to handle one thing at a time, and likely increased my chances of getting it to line up properly. The new pins will be a little lower than the existing ones, and will have rubber stops to snug the hood in place once latched. If you are curious for more installation details, I'll start a thread.
