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this is the best write up with pictures ever keep the good work
Thanks. I should have some more pictures after this Saturday. I am going to finish the hood pin installation in the front and install the other set on the rear part of the hood (so it can be removed completely).
I was thinking of doing something like that caues I hate the way a 240 hood only goes up like 3 feet, every time you need to get in there you have to just take the hood off!
In the end I made my own hood hinges and my hood folds all the way back, so now I just set it on the windshield or I can stand it stright up with my hood rod.
Just another thing I stole from the Honda guys!
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I have mastered the art of breaking sh*t!
6 motors down ... 1000's more to blow!
93 240, BlackTop, s14 turbo, Power Fc, Greddy intake manifold, pullys, Apexi GT Spec turbo back, Fever Racing turbo manifold, PWR intercooler, Koyo radiator, Spec stage 3 clutch, Nismo GTS LSD with fluid cooler, Tein HE, and so much more
Thanks. Initially it'll be autocrossed until I can get safety up to par for roadracing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by doluck
I was thinking of doing something like that caues I hate the way a 240 hood only goes up like 3 feet, every time you need to get in there you have to just take the hood off!
In the end I made my own hood hinges and my hood folds all the way back, so now I just set it on the windshield or I can stand it stright up with my hood rod.
Just another thing I stole from the Honda guys!
Taking the hood all the way off has worked for hot-rodders for years. I foresaw the same difficulties with being able to get underneath there to work and having to worry about hitting the stupid hood prop.
There were two other very good reasons for pinning all 4 corners:
1) Ability to remove the heavy stock hood latch and hinges
2) Ability to eliminate the cable for popping the stock hood latch, as it clutters up the engine bay.
The only bad thing about pinning all 4 corners on a stock hood is that it becomes difficult to remove and reinstall for one person.
Update: After fixing some wiring issues, the shop my friends run was able to start the car yesterday. Unfortunately, they found an oil leak at the front cover. I'll look into it and let you guys know what's up.
To seal a front cover, both oil pans (upper and lower) need to come off.
Sucks, but better than removing the head.
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Blair
93 P10
"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." - Jeremiah 29:11 (NIV)
For some reason I thought the head had to come off. Maybe it's because the FSM lists that as a necessity for removing the timing chain.
I also thought there were 2 dowels on top of the front cover that interfaced with the head. If this isn't true, it'll save me a lot of effort, so please let me know.
-Andy, who's still stoked everything else is going well
well looks like u gotta digital camera - do you have a camcorder to make a video of starting her up when the time comes?! - since you allready have like 4.8 million pictures by now LOL - months n months of hard work - a video would really pay off
awsome car btw - and after about 4 pages of reading - i just started scanning for pictures haha - 19 pages will do that huh
well looks like u gotta digital camera - do you have a camcorder to make a video of starting her up when the time comes?! - since you allready have like 4.8 million pictures by now LOL - months n months of hard work - a video would really pay off
I bought a video camera yes, partly because my wife and I have a baby on the way, and partly (ssshhhh, don't tell the wife) that I wanted something for the track car. So yes, I will be taking some video soon and uploading it as soon I figure out how.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinyo
awsome car btw - and after about 4 pages of reading - i just started scanning for pictures haha - 19 pages will do that huh
For some reason I thought the head had to come off. Maybe it's because the FSM lists that as a necessity for removing the timing chain.
I also thought there were 2 dowels on top of the front cover that interfaced with the head. If this isn't true, it'll save me a lot of effort, so please let me know.
You dont have to remove the head, but you have to get under the cam to take out 2 bolts. Look down the timing chain alley and you will see then under the end of the cams. I have done a few without taking the cams off, but it kinda hard and you have to have some trick tools, if you don't, just take the cams out. You do have to take the oil pans off, and lifting the motor a inch or so helps a ton.
It's a common spot to leak, alot of the motors I have built I had to go reseal that spot, its realy hard to know if it's sealed good or not and I have had to do a few more than once.
If you need help with this just let me know, my wife is a head expert!!
You dont have to remove the head, but you have to get under the cam to take out 2 bolts. Look down the timing chain alley and you will see then under the end of the cams. I have done a few without taking the cams off, but it kinda hard and you have to have some trick tools, if you don't, just take the cams out. You do have to take the oil pans off, and lifting the motor a inch or so helps a ton.
What kind of tools?
If/when I do fix it (depending on the leak volume), I would probably pull the motor. I have a few things I could do while it's out anyways.
Quote:
Originally Posted by doluck
It's a common spot to leak, alot of the motors I have built I had to go reseal that spot, its realy hard to know if it's sealed good or not and I have had to do a few more than once.
I have heard this too, especially with respect to some o-ring that may or may not be missing. I would hope that my new front cover / oil pump would have come with one, but it's been awhile since I rebuilt the motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by doluck
If you need help with this just let me know, my wife is a head expert!!
