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Just make sure to make the mount solid. We welded ours onto the rear passenger side frame rail behind the wheel well. I just welded some 1" box steel together that was a little larger than the perimeter of the battery on its side, then welded some bolts to it for posts. I used a 1/4" thick piece of Al as a top strap and called it a day. Works pretty well so far, though we have thankfully not tested it yet...
It has taken so long to read all 28 pages of this. Nice write-ups.
Thanks. Unfortunately I haven't done the best job keeping up and I'm always busy with something (mainly my son). I will do an update after my June track session at CMP though.
Whew...this was a read! Good thing I can do it on the clock at work - *** "the man" moved me to 2nd shift without notice
AGREED! But sooo well worth it! This article definitely gave me a lot of good tech info and ideas. My build isn't quite as intense as andy's here as my hatch is a slightly modded daily of sorts for now. But the day will come when I feel the need for a pure track car. (You know where I'll be reading again!)
I really hope to see some updates soon as we head into spring and summer mang! Represent!
AGREED! But sooo well worth it! This article definitely gave me a lot of good tech info and ideas. My build isn't quite as intense as andy's here as my hatch is a slightly modded daily of sorts for now. But the day will come when I feel the need for a pure track car. (You know where I'll be reading again!)
I really hope to see some updates soon as we head into spring and summer mang! Represent!
Thanks for spurring me on. I have done a little bit of updating to my blog recently and need to carry that over to the threads.
I am attending a HPDE in June with Tarheel SCCA at CMP, and will have more work on the car after that. I will *finally* be adding the Tomei oil adapter, Canton Mecca filter, oil cooler, check valve, and BMRS lines. All of this in preparation for hot-as-hell temperatures at VIR-Full in early August with CarGuys. I will most likely get SMIC heat-soak there too, but will have to deal with it as I have no fundage for those upgrades at this point.
It seems like every time I come here to read updates, I always start to get caught up in reading from the beginning and then I gotta snap outta my trance haha!!!
Can't wait to see some more on-track pics of this well done car!
Can't wait to see some more on-track pics of this well done car!
Thanks. Unfortunately I do not have any on-track pictures from CMP last month, but will get some video uploaded, including skidpad (from outside the car).
As a mini-update:
I have mounted the oil cooler and will be pulling the intake manifold today to do a few things in there and install the Tomei oil block in the stock location. I have the Canton-Mecca filter housing mounted already, and need a few fittings before I'm able to size lines and have them made.
I pulled my front rotors and calipers the other day, and both are in ROUGH shape. The inner pad on the driver's side has a chunk that came off when I pulled the pad out. I am trying to figure out a temporary solution to make a late-August autocross while concurrently designing a brake system around Wilwood components.
I can't believe that you've done some impressive track running with an OE brake setup. Makes me feel more confident about my stockers. What pad/rotor combo have you been running? And what Wilwood components are you looking into for an upgrade?
Also, I forgot that you are running AGX shocks, but I can't remember what spring you attached to those. How do you like them as far as track use goes? What setting do you usually run if you encounter a pretty bumpy surface? (autocross in a parking lot, etc.)
I can't believe that you've done some impressive track running with an OE brake setup. Makes me feel more confident about my stockers.
Stockers are fine for a beginner, with a nice pad, SS lines and run some nice fluid. I use ATE Super Blue and alternate flushes with the Gold version. If you are having issues with heat on this setup, run some ducting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwiztedZero
What pad/rotor combo have you been running?
I have been running more of an auto-x pad with the PBR(Axxis) MetalMaster, and probably would have switched to a Hawk HP+ to try next. I have been using stock ABS rotors from an auto parts store.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwiztedZero
what Wilwood components are you looking into for an upgrade?
UL-32 directional vane rotors, 11.75" diameter and 1.25" thick. I had HD blank hats drilled for 4-lug since I could not find a hat offset that worked with this rotor. Five-luggers will have a much easier time of it since the hat selection is so much better. I bought a new Superlite II with new pads on eGay for fitment purposes, and may end up using it if I can find a match. More to come on the setup and I make some progress.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwiztedZero
Also, I forgot that you are running AGX shocks, but I can't remember what spring you attached to those. How do you like them as far as track use goes? What setting do you usually run if you encounter a pretty bumpy surface? (autocross in a parking lot, etc.)
I'm using S-Techs, and have the AGX's set on full stiff for all corners. I've coupled this with front and rear Whiteline bars on full soft, but may bump the rear to full stiff to help with my understeering problem.
Stockers are fine for a beginner, with a nice pad, SS lines and run some nice fluid. I use ATE Super Blue and alternate flushes with the Gold version. If you are having issues with heat on this setup, run some ducting.
I've got SS lines ready to go on when I put my car under the knife again this fall, but I'm still using regular parts store DOT 3. Of course I'm still just street driving my car so I don't see a need to run any higher end brake fluid, but I'll keep that in mind. I can't remember what pad is on the car now, but they are at 90% life (my cousin put them on the car before I bought it from him.) I did some spirited hard stops last year and started burning up the pads so I picked up some slotted brembos from a good friend for free, and I haven't had any problems with heat since, but remember, I'm not running consistent laps on a track like you are.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shift_Munky
UL-32 directional vane rotors, 11.75" diameter and 1.25" thick. I had HD blank hats drilled for 4-lug since I could not find a hat offset that worked with this rotor. Five-luggers will have a much easier time of it since the hat selection is so much better. I bought a new Superlite II with new pads on eGay for fitment purposes, and may end up using it if I can find a match. More to come on the setup and I make some progress.
I definitely plan on 5 lugging my car eventually as well for the same selection reasons.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shift_Munky
I'm using S-Techs, and have the AGX's set on full stiff for all corners. I've coupled this with front and rear Whiteline bars on full soft, but may bump the rear to full stiff to help with my understeering problem.
I went with some Eibach S'lines and I dunno how to compare them to whatever else I could have went with. I'm sure those S-Techs dropped you down a bit more right? The only other upgrade I'm running on the suspension is SusTech front and rear bars (no adjustment!) and I definitely feel a push if I'm going for a tight corner with a lot of steering input. Then again I'm still running a crappy Fuzion cheap-o-special tire too and it does not grip at all. I'm ready to drop more on my suspension though man.
But, there are contingency programs out there. You outta just pick your events carefully. You could always run TT with NASA and some 'kooks and if you podium, your tires are mostly paid for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shift_Munky
I have been running more of an auto-x pad with the PBR(Axxis) MetalMaster, and probably would have switched to a Hawk HP+ to try next. I have been using stock ABS rotors from an auto parts store.
We've been using Hawk Blues on our setup (which is the same as yours, stock, IIRC) and they've been working beautifully. The added benefit to this is the pads have lasted forever and wear like the iron they are.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shift_Munky
UL-32 directional vane rotors, 11.75" diameter and 1.25" thick. I had HD blank hats drilled for 4-lug since I could not find a hat offset that worked with this rotor. Five-luggers will have a much easier time of it since the hat selection is so much better. I bought a new Superlite II with new pads on eGay for fitment purposes, and may end up using it if I can find a match. More to come on the setup and I make some progress.
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