Shift_Munky

It was powdercoated. And beautifully I might add. One of my teammates used to work for a company that manufactured CAT parts, including powdercoating, so this is genuine Caterpillar yellow. The best part? It cost me nothing.

Thanks for the compliments. As mentioned above it was free, and our choices were limited to
A) CAT yellow
B) OSHA (safety) red
C) Gloss black

We ruled out OSHA red because it would look like ass compared to the stock (badass) redtop color. They wanted to do it gloss black, but I didn't want to misrepresent the engine as a blacktop, plus a lot of our other stuff (brackets, suspension pieces, etc.) are in this color. And I am far from one who likes boring chit. So I made the command decision to go with CAT yellow, and I think it looks awesome. It wasn't quite as nice until we sanded the powercoating off the letters and cleaned the spark cover. But now I really like it, and think that it'll get us a lot of props from other racers / enthusiasts.


Thanks. As for knowing what we're doing, we have Robin Barnett, a FSM, and general mechanical knowledge. But we're pretty much car virgins, with prior experience mainly consisting of changing brake pads & rotors, oil, and other mundane stuff. So this is certainly a learning experience for all of us.

Our stock T25 was in terrible shape (thanks for replacing it Venus ), so we bought another used T25 off Russ. I thought about upgrading, but we're already running out of money, and a turbo upgrade would have required a MAF, injectors, and SAFCII. Plus, I plan to address braking, cooling, wheels, caging, safety, and suspension (in that order) before ever turning to power upgrades.

The Nissan shirt is nice to have, but mine is irreparably dirty now from grease, paint, dirt, etc. Even after it comes outta the wash it looks like ace.

__________________
240SR track donkey

Shift_Munky

Added the spare tire/wheel to the list. The 28 pounds has bumped me up to 349.2 pounds!

Shift_Munky

Sorry about the delay and any repetition, and please be patient with me while I try to get updated...

Sandblasted subframe:


SPL Pro Aluminum bushings in the freezer overnight:


Heating the subframe after unsuccessfully trying to hammer the bishes in:


Trying the vice method since heating took too long:

After talking to Estevan(NOSTALGIC HERO) on FA, I realized that using large washers, studs, and nuts with an impact and a wrench would have been easier...

All 8 pieces (4 sets) in the subframe:

Note the discoloration from heating.

After blasting the subframe again, I painted it with some black epoxy spray paint:

Pretty, huh?

Shift_Munky

Rob lifting the subframe up while I hammer it in place:

It was difficult to get on, especially at the front studs. The decreased tolerance of the aluminum pieces was probably the culprit here, as the OEM one came off easily.

Rob and I installing the diff:

Note the mad-tyte orange "Viscous LSD" sticker...bling blang!

Halfshafts, hubs/spindles, and powdercoated suspension pieces added:


KYB AGX's with Tein S-Techs:


Removing the ASCD:

Shift_Munky

Before component removal:



After component removal and taping everything up:



Nasty azz crossmember and steering rack:

Note the torn boot.

After sandblasting and primer:



After 4 light coats:



Nick's version of "Wash Me":

CarismaGT

nice job... keep us updated...

__________________
Nissan Silvia S15 SpecR Aero (JDM)
C-West N1 Bodykit

SERprise In WV

Looks really great. I'd love to do a detailed re-build like that.

One day.

__________________
Greg Perry
Huntington, WV
-'93 SE-R, 12.80 @ 110mph
The car: '93 SE-R with a VE
The BEST SR20 manifold on earth: Protech Manifolds

Shift_Munky

Thanks. My engine and shortblock took so long that I had some time to pay attention to small stuff like this.

The engine bay actually looks much better now that some brackets and battery tray have been removed, excess seam sealer removed, wirewheel used to clean up some more, and two passes with sandpaper. Then some primer, enamel, and 2-3 light coats of clear. It looks awesome now, especially since the underhood wiring and pop-ups were out of the way.

-Andy

Shift_Munky

Removing the FLCA ball joints:


Pop-up headlights after removal and disassembly:


Removing the wrist pin retaining clips from the OEM piston/rod assemblies:


CP blinginess, y0:


CP pistons installed on stock rods:

Shift_Munky

Russ' wiring job in progress:


The "finished" wiring, to be completed after the engine is dropped in:


Engine bay pictures after wiring was gutted:

Shift_Munky

KA brackets, not needed for my SR swap:




First stages of battery tray removal:



Center radiator support and hood latch removal:

Shift_Munky

Reassembled shortblock, delivered by Robin of Barnett Performance & Development:



The head, ready to be sent off with Robin:

awal

This kinda stuff makes me mad i didnt do my swap over a long time, and my self. Really nice posts bro. (hateing)

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NISMO Life

akapaul

Very nice writeup and pictures. Keep up the good work! *subscribes*

nomad

nice and clean!!

__________________
I ♥ my Nissan
WHITE 96 200sx se-R
shift_..
__________________________________________________ __
USPS classifies Guam with the rest of the USA as far as shipping rates go...
Check UPS and see if they have USPS rates. Thank you.

sr20dreamin

Glad to see someone taking the time to do a nice build up. I'm just hoping my project gets rolling along like yours

-Soren

GoinSleeper

i wish my project was a project like this. Im JUST doing swap, because of limitations on time and a place to do it. but hot damn... Ill have to set up my RB26 project so i can do all the cleaning and making everything beautiful cause damn dude, its lookin good!

__________________
'96 200sx SE (Hopefully a G37 soon)
'92 240sx SR20 workshop

Shift_Munky

Thanks for the compliments. I have had time to do things carefully because the engine and head have taken a long time to come together. I will keep you guys updated when I get a chance to upload some more pictures. Thanks again for the kind words.

-Andy

rhd

why did you wait till after you painted to remove the brakets and battery tray?

Shift_Munky

Because I was in a hurry to get the engine bay back together to prepare for engine installation. I then found out that the head needed to be reworked, and decided to go back and remove the brackets. It's a much cleaner job than before since the brackets, wiring, and excess seam sealer were removed before any coats were applied. I also didn't get the idea to remove these things until I was in the finish coat phase (the first time around).

In short, I was in a hurry.