rhd

yeah, that happens.......

looking good though...for sure

Shift_Munky

Thanks. I'm glad U had a chance to go back and do thigns the right way, as it looks a helluva lot better than it used to.

I'll keep you guys updated when I get a chance to upload some more pictures.

__________________
240SR track donkey

bombzaway

lol nice work man.... i could never split the costs of a car with some. that means they own it too (bastard greedy man i am) but anyways looking good!

Shift_Munky

Thanks, ya bastard greedy.

I would prefer to own 100% of it too, but it simply wasn't feasbile, both financially and from a labor standpoint. I am actually the "project manager" if there was one, and have done 80% by myself. I will likely be one of two drivers as well, both from a skill perspective, and time invested.

Thanks for all the compliments, and be sure to check out my website when you get a chance.

-Andy

Shift_Munky

About to cut the piece of chit battery tray out:


Some strategic cuts to break it up into manageable chunks. Drilled out where I thought all the spot-welds were:


Taking the first piece out:


All of the pieces after being removed:


Cutting out the rusted section:


After the section is cut out:

Shift_Munky

After all the stuff was taken out, and before removing the sound deadening:



The Evil Humping Penguin of Sri Lanka...sure he looks friendly:


After half of it was crushed up and sperad in the passenger floorboard:


After hitting it with a mallet and breaking some of it out:


"After" pictures. We only had time for the floorboards:

Shift_Munky

More piktarz!

Removing (most of) the rest of the sound deadening:


After removal. Notice the stuff on the wheel wells:


Stripping the excess seam sealer, grinding, and sanding:


Installing the steering rack with ES 300ZX bushings:


Pressing the old FLCA bushings out:


After beadblasting the FLCA's:


Two coats of appliance epoxy paint, with the Whiteline bushings mocked up:


New bushing outer sleeves pressed in. The 2-piece metal cylinder was used to keep the two walls of the FLCA from bending inward during installation:


Whiteline bushings installed:


The MOOG FLCA balljoint pieces. Notice the "Made in Japan": :thumbsup


MOOG's installed:


After primer, enamel, and clearcoat were sprayed on:



Duct tape removed from brake master, steering shaft, clutch master, and other stuff:

Shift_Munky

Beadblasted and clearcoated coolant parts, compressor inlet, and compressor outlet:


Removing front spindle ABS sensors:


After steering rack and FLCA's were installed:


Front spindle in place:


Front struts & springs installed:


The car on the ground (finally!):


The steering rack hooked up to the shaft:

brian

I love the Christmas theme on the suspension

__________________
2003 VW gti 1.8t
72 Datsun 510-sold

Shift_Munky

Ba Humbug. I thought about beadblasting and painting the springs, and my teammates were pushing for it heavily, but even I have my limits with respect to anal retentiveness. Kinda the same thought process for my painting over the pretty SPL aluminum subframe bushings when I repainted the subframe: too much work to simply impress people with a color scheme.

-Andre3000

Shift_Munky

Most of the smaller gaskets in the Phase2 "complete gasket set":


Shortblock assembled:


The head after rework:


The rear cover after a new rear main seal was installed:


The upper (aluminum) oil pan ready to go on, with Gray RTV:


The upper oil pan being installed:


The timing chain and guides installed:


Water pump, baffle plate, and front cover installed:


If you'll notice, I put the upper oil pan on before the front cover, which was a mistake. IIRC, the front cover has two dowels that fit into the upper oil pan. I ended up having to pull the oil pan off, re-applying the RTV Gray, and putting it back on after the front cover was on. So take a lesson from me: put the front cover on first!

Shift_Munky

Installing hydraulic lifters, shims, and rocker arms:


Cams installed:


Cam retainers, oil tubes, RAS's, and cam gears installed:



CAS installed. Notice how the dot lines up per the FSM:


Installing the timing chain tensioner:


GReddy oil pan parts:


GReddy oil pan with Red RTV, waiting to go on:


Dirty oil block:


Cleaned oil block and oil pan installed:


Sanding the powdercoating off the valvecover letters:

Shift_Munky

The exhaust manifold was blasted when it came off the engine, and sat around awhile. This is it before re-blasting:


After beadblasting it again:


First coat of POR-15 Black Velvet hi-temp paint, wet:


First coat of POR-15 Black Velvet hi-temp paint, almost dry:


After baking at 400*F for 35 minutes:


The turbo that came with the clip, and the one that Russ sold me:


The ABS brake booster, after removal and sanding:


Two coats of black epoxy appliance paint from Lowe's on the booster, installed with the BMC:

JustAPhase

Wow. Ive been waiting for the next addition to this thread. This car is a work of art in progress.

Shift_Munky

Sorry to keep you waiting. In case you didn't know, I have done this work and had these pictures for some time now, but never selected them, uploaded, added them to the thread, etc. By my last count, I probably have 1500 - 2000 pictures of my project, and have weeded that number down to 10% to post on forums.

Thanks for the compliment. I will have more pictures up soon, and will eventually get to the point that I can upload them on Sunday night after working on the car over the weekend.

-Andy

Shift_Munky

Thermostat housing in place:


Water outlet installed:


Water inlet and engine mount bracket installed:


Oil tube and engine mount bracket installed:


Blingtastic valve cover:


Powdercoated alternator bracket installed:


Alternator and tension adjusting bracket:


Water pump pulley. Notice the threads where the studs go:


Pulley and 2-of-4 nuts installed:


Good frontal view:


Alternator pulley installed:


Coolant plenum, with the temp sensors:


Coolant plenum coming apart. Notice the rust:



Coolant plenum parts after beadblasting and two coats of clear:

Shift_Munky

Turbo after cleaning and polishing the compressor with the wirewheel:


Applying the first coat of POR-15 Black Velvet to the turbine:


Turbo and turbine outlet ready to go in the oven:


Painting the second coat on the turbine outlet:


Old turbo, before the lines came off:


Me capturing the fact that a 19mm socket is needed to remove the banjo bolts:


Bearing Center Section oil outlet gasket and tubing:


Oil and coolant lines on the turbo, then the turbo sitting on the manifold:


Measuring the oil outlet to choose some hose:

The oil outlet, the respective block inlet, catch can inlet and outlet, and valvecover tee are all the same size.

Shift_Munky

Installing the braided stainless line to relocate the GReddy Warning oil pressure sender:

I was impressed how complete the kit was. It even includes teflon tape and a trick annodized 2-piece bracket to remote mount the sender, as vibration tends to prematurely kill it.

The stock catch can after beadblasting:


The GReddy gauge:

BTW, 1 kg/cm^2 = 14.225 psi

The left and right radiator supports after beadblasting and painting:

blairellis

This car is being done right, I love it. Keep posting updates on this if you would. I love getting an idea of what Ill be doing in the future

__________________

scortch99th

great work on the car
hopefully i do a right when i do the same when i get a ve

__________________
91 classic SE-R (sold)
94 classic LE (falling apart beater)
91 240sx(rps13) (sold)
95 P10 Primera (current daily)
COMPRESSED CLIQ