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i wasnt aware you could take that off....guess we didnt clean the bellhousing out too well
Yeah, I had to because the trans that came with my clip had higher mileage than another cheap one I picked up. But since it was cheap, the collar that surrounded the input shaft broke off of the front cover. So...I had to switch front covers from the old trans to the newer one. Since I had everything apart, I decided to change the oil seal, gasket, and clutch pivot.
After overtightening one of the coilpack screws and snapping it in half, Rob attempted to remove it:
This ended up taking quite a bit of the day, as easy-outs and most other removal methods were unsuccessful. One of the biggest issues is that Rob was using an air-powered drill that spun somewhere in the neighborhood of 20,000rpm! We believe the drill bit wasn’t cutting well since they aren’t generally designed to operate at those speeds, and was creating heat through friction and hardening the metal against removal attempts (basic Mechanics of Materials concept – “work hardening”). We had the most success by changing to a battery-powered drill, making new holes, and again utilizing the easy-outs.
Peeking up at the knock sensor:
Old TO bearing (assumed OEM) on top versus the one that came with the Exedy clutch kit:
Pressing the bearing onto the carrier using a piece of pipe and vice (Method #1):
The piece of pipe I machined to fit the inside lip of the new bearing, to press it on with an arbor press (Method #2 = better):
The Nismo clutch pivot in place & greased; carrier / TO bearing greased and installed:
Demonstration of how the clutch fork and carrier/bearing fit together with springs:
JGY(boo) urethane mount installed on powdercoated transmission crossmember:
I noted a couple of things here:
1) The bevel in the lower right part of the mount isn’t of sufficient size to accommodate crossmember curvature in the same area, and
2) The kit should have included bolts, fasteners, and locking washers to connect the mount to the crossmember. Not surprisingly, it doesn’t, and I had to obtain them from Lowe’s. While not overly expensive or difficult to locate, it would have been nice for OEM-quality or higher hardware to come with the kit, saving both time and money. I chose the highest available grade allen bolts, nuts, and lock washers, and torqued to FSM specs (even though this might not be entirely appropriate for a urethane mount).
Me demonstrating how the mount/crossmember attach to the transmission:
Note the orientation of the crossmember “high” and “low” sides compared to the transmission orientation. I noticed that the FSM-specified torque was difficult to achieve here since the mount is malleable and deformed before the torque spec was reached. I had to back the wrench down somewhat, and ended up using the lower torque value in the FSM. It might not have been a bad idea to include installation instructions with torque specs, but exclusion is here again not surprising.
Last edited by Shift_Munky; 09-08-2005 at 04:57 PM.
Me reinstalling the flywheel and clutch after putting the “transmission plate” on. We got as far as installing the transmission before realizing that I had left it off (d-oh!):
Transmission plate in place and transmission waiting to be installed:
Note the reddish dowel completely pushed into the dowel hole on the bellhousing (in line with the fill plug). We had the transmission almost installed before we noticed that a dowel in the block was interfering with the aforementioned one.
Me installing the transmission with Chad(biggie) guiding the tail:
(I’m sure he enjoyed ace in the face )
Transmission installed after all the bolts had found homes:
I noticed here that the picture in the FSM and requisite numbering system are oriented such that it’s looking at the engine side of the transmission. It would have made much more sense to have it oriented like you were looking at the engine from the transmission tail.
A nice view of the engine and transmission assembled:
Rob is installing a KA dust boot over the clutch fork/slave cylinder interface and Robin is playing with the shifter.
Car elevated and awaiting engine:
Me installing bolts to hold the steering collar to the rack input shaft:
The threads on the collar were either stripped themselves, or had metal pieces in them that prevented me from tightening them to spec. Instead of finding a used collar and risking a similar issue all over again, I simply bought some hardware from Lowe’s and used a lockwasher and nut on the other end of the bolt to keep from relying on the collar threads to hold the load.
Engine monkey, Japanese-style:
I was actually trying to prevent testicular removal via the radiator support while stepping out of the engine compartment, as the car was elevated. Damn, my head looks huge.
Rob and I rigging the overhead crane and straps to lift the engine into her new home:
Rob and my younger brother maneuvering the engine in place with me lying underneath the car trying to push the transmission tail:
In retrospect we had difficulty for two reasons:
1) It’s hard as hell to move the transmission tail around considering the weight one has to handle. I’m stickdiesel, but damn! I went this past Saturday (almost 2 weeks after initially attempting engine installation) and bought a HarborFreight jack, and
2) It’s much easier to put the mounts on the engine and lower onto the crossmember instead of putting them on the crossmember and lowering the engine onto the mounts, unbeknownst to us at the time.
The engine almost in place:
If you haven’t gathered as much from the above text, we were unable to get the engine installed, and will be attempting to do so again armed with more knowledge and tools than previously available. Wish me luck!
Last edited by Shift_Munky; 09-08-2005 at 04:58 PM.
Coming together quite nicely it seems. I have been following this project since you first posted it.
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Thanks. The thread has some 210 or so pictures, making it one of the more pic-intensive ones I've ever seen. I only hope that they're being truly appreciated, cause it's quite an effort to take and post them. But it seems like most do, and my further hope is that they actually provide guidance for upgrades, issues, etc. Keep in mind that I only post about 7-10% of the pictures I've taken, meaning I have lots of others to draw on when people have specific questions.
As for the car, it's definitely a labor of love. I like (much to my wife's chagrin) to think of her as my less-demanding, less-expensive second wife!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racingswh
Will you have it done for next year in SRX? It looks like you're making some decent headway. Push and get it done! lol!
Hardly. I have so many things left to do that it's likely going to be 2007 season before I'm able to compete. Most of the stuff I have left to get is safety-related, and I certainly don't want to skimp there. That being said, I can't afford to buy everything in time for next season. Plus, this way I have a whole year to add safety equipment, work out some bugs, and improve my skills as a driver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racingswh
Are you planning any changes or modifications to the car? Are you going to do a full cage?
Yes, I have tons of changes planned, in the following order:
1) Decently-wide and lightweight 4-lug wheels & R-compounds
2) Z32 brakes & BMC, Carbotech pads (XP8's or XP9's)
3) cage (read below) and polycarbonate windshield
4) Safety equipment, suit, helmet w/HANS, etc.
5) Z32 aluminum uprights, 5-lugs, new wheel bearings, inverted monotube coilovers with lower adjustment perches and camber plates (not sure which brand/series yet, but comprabale to the Tein RA or RE)), 5-lug wheels and tires
6) Power, if I'm satisfied that everything else is worked out
Some of these things will take place concurrently, but I only need to get to #4 to compete in SRX. I will also continue to shave "free wight" here and there as time allows.
As for the cage, I am thinking 8-10 point since I want to tie the front strut towers into the cage for stability. I'd also like to add a hoop around the back to protect the fuel cell, some elaborate work at the doors to protect me and potential passengers, and gussets at the A-pillars. The downside is that all of this adds to the complexity and cost, thus pushing it out further. If I have to though, I'll take out a small 2-year loan to get it done because I'm ready to roadrace this bish!
looks like a familiar sight when i dropped my brothers in his car...except there was still jdm tranny fluid in the mission that got all over everywhere
Radiator in place with brackets. Look at all the room for a future G-mount:
Clutch fan hub and fanblade in place:
Me licking the fanblade “soft-pr0n-style” to prove that it’s indeed clean enough to eat off of:
Shroud, upper radiator hose, and some of the stock piping in place:
Frontal view:
Side view. Much less rally-esque, but nonetheless still higher than a dirty Phishhead. Hopefully it’ll settle more with the other pieces added, and after some driving:
If not, I could always “cut da springzzzzzz, y0!”
Busted grease boot and “replacement” axle. Note the condition of the rubber on the replacement:
Blech.
After trying to install the axle with little luck:
In the end, it seems like there’s a clearance issue. I removed the old (with busted boot, above) axle and tried to install the other/replacement one, but it wouldn’t seat completely when I tried to push the splined end into the hub. Even hitting it with an impact didn’t solve the issue. Before you comment, I cleaned up the male and female splines, and the threads before attempting installation. I should also note that I had considerable difficulty getting the nut onto the threads, even with the axle off the car.
I removed the replacement and tried to slide both it and the old one into a spare rear hub, and both seated completely. The only thing I know to do at this point is try the replacement axle in the other hub I have (to test for side-dependency) or loosen the hub to facilitate complete seating by virtue of having more room to play. I don’t have a high confidence level for the latter, though.
If I determine that the axles are side-dependent, it’ll end up that I have two usable ones (read: no ripped boots) for one side of the car. This means I’ll have to either have the older one(s) rebuilt, or buy new ones.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Shift_Munky; 10-12-2005 at 12:51 PM.
On jack stands and ready for axle installation:
Axles installed:
Torquing axle nuts with 36mm impact socket:
Please don't try this without either someone to help, or someone standing on the brakes. I almost killed myself trying to do it, gave up on the driver's side one and hit both with an impact.
Axle nut cover and cotter pin in place, and brake bracket and caliper installed:
Sweet undercar view:
E-brake line ziptied to the passenger side hardline, since it wanted to touch the axle:
Hot piping installed:
I beadblasted and recoated the metal pipes since they were a chitty, scraped blue color earlier. I also cleaned the rubber with soap and water and used new wormgear clamps.
Air filter / MAF / charge piping before cleanup:
Notice the chitty stock-style clamp -> REPLACED!
Charge piping after cleaning:
The rubber hose piece you see covered in electrical tape is (as best I can tell) a rubber sleeve over the tubing to protect it from exhaust manifold heat. After cleaning the tubing the sleeve, the friction between both rubber pieces prevented me from sliding the sleeve on. I split it to get it on, and secured it with tape. If the tape doesn't withstand the heat, I will replace the hose and use heat shield sleeving similar to what was used on the turbo oil return line.
Air filter / MAF / charge piping installed:
I need to fabricate a bracket to secure the MAF, as it's currently mobile. Since I have access to a significant amount of angle iron, I might fab something up, drill holes, test fit, then blast and paint. I figure I'll use one of the existing holes, and plan to take measurements in case someone else wants one.
I'm going to try to make it to the shop later tonight to hook up the fuel hose and filter. I'll probably use the old vacuum tubing to get a rough idea of how much I need, then I'll place an order for some new silicone tubing. Anyone know a good place to get 6mm and 8mm in black? All I can seem to find is red and blue.
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