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Heating the Aeroquip hose to get it over the hose barbs:
All fuel hoses in place (after some difficulty):
Cut a piece of old fuel hose in place and electrical taped it to keep the stainless line from vibrating its way through various parts in the engine bay:
Vacuum tee after the TB:
Inline headed toward the BOV and perpedicular headed toward the boost sensor.
Interesting shot of the fuel and vacuum lines:
Although Jordan didn't realize it at teh time, he did a great job of showing how I secured the vacuum line to the intake manifold support bracket.
Boost and oil pressure senders:
Another good example of securing lines. The black piece between the brake lines is another rubber sleeve as detailed above.
Fixing one of the heater core actuation arms in place:
This is to secure the internal doors in place to make sure air is directed in the "defrost" direction.
A/C plenum, with a good view of the evaporator core:
A/C plenum, with the evap core removed, but before holes were taped off:
The grommet I used to pull the oil and boost pressure wiring through the firewall (hereafter referred to as the "sensor grommet"):
Where I obtained the grommet:
Splitting the grommet to pull the sensor connectors through:
The grommet I bought for the heater hoses:
A good view of the heater plenum, sensor wiring, and the alternator/starter grommet:
In case you're wondering, the "alternator/starter grommet" hole used to be the dump tube for the A/C plenum, and is where Russ'll pull the alternator and starter wiring from the engine bay to the cabin. This is the same type of grommet used above for the sensor wiring.
I did some additional weight reduction on the heater plenum by removing the auxiliary ducts. I also fixed the hot/cold air door more securely than was done previously, and removed the hot/cold air linkage. I can post pictures of this if there's interest.
The progression of plenums and dash bar installation:
Good view of the finished sensor wiring & harness and heater hoses installed:
You can almost make out the alternator/starter grommet, below and right of the sensor grommet, near where the brake hardlines 90 over.
Last edited by Shift_Munky : 11-15-2005 at 12:40 PM.
just one less thing to fail, and less for the pistons to push down on (a little less)
I can appreciate that I suppose, using the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). But you'd effectively keep from oiling underneath the pistons. This would be catestrophic if there wasn't oil between the piston rings. But as such, I guess you could ditch them.
I am in agreement with you from your statement earlier. I'm not sure why you would remove the squirters. If the car makes good power and the squirters aren't detracting from the power goal I can't see a reason why to disable or remove them. Power alone by the way won't make the car competitive. Anything that helps to keep things lubricated and cooler I would deem to be a benefit on a roadrace application.
The risk of damage due to detonation is far greater then any risk that might come from a squiter failing. Never even heard of that happening. How would one fail and cause a problem?
All i have to say is have fun with wiring. EEK! Looks like alot to cover there.
__________________
Blair
93 P10
"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." - Jeremiah 29:11 (NIV)
Hey awesome work, I'm planning on doing about the same thing (just a DE), just need to get more money! Keep the pics coming, I'm enjoying every one of them
Hey awesome work, I'm planning on doing about the same thing (just a DE), just need to get more money! Keep the pics coming, I'm enjoying every one of them
Thanks. Some would argue that the DE (or maybe VE) is a better choice considering the heat issues the DET's have on-track. My solution will be to "overcool" using a V-mount setup with plenty of ducting.
Money is always the issue. If I simply had a coupla grand right now, I could have it ready for the first autocross event next season. A couple more, and I could have it at most reachable HPDE's next year too!
I will have some more pictures posted within the next week or so.
Hey, I actually want to go VE and turbo eventually but again, money. And show your V-mount buildup too, I'm really interested in the whole process of notching the radiator support, or any other way of mounting a V-mount. Oh, and my name's Andy too.
Oh, and the piston squirters are a good idea for maximum reliablity. Piston cooling is very important, and if you filter your oil at all, they aren't going to fail. Good work
Hey, I actually want to go VE and turbo eventually but again, money. And show your V-mount buildup too, I'm really interested in the whole process of notching the radiator support, or any other way of mounting a V-mount. Oh, and my name's Andy too.
Casey (sr20goofus) and I are both going to this setup, but he's going to beat me to it by a great deal of time I'm afraid. But this is the main reason I haven't purchased an aftermarket intercooler or radiator: Like Casey, I'd have to find someone to buy it down the road. As he's found out, it's better to size both for a V-mount application than it is to fit a standard application one. This is primarily because of dimensional requirements.
As for configuration, Casey and I were talking about this last night. I envision removing the horizontal radiator support to make room for a horizontally-mounted IC, then using angle aluminum or steel to replace the cut-out section of radiator support. This will keep everything tied together while providing a good support structure for the IC. Then add the radiator in, getting it as close to the vertical axis as possible. I will try to post some pictures tonight of other setups that Casey pointed me to.
