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View Poll Results: what motor should i save up for?
rb20det 6 17.65%
sr20det 15 44.12%
ka24de-t (twim cam) 7 20.59%
frankenstien sr20ve-t (not gonna even try just putting it here) 6 17.65%
Voters: 34. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 05-25-2007, 12:34 PM   #21 (permalink)
SR powered S13 coupe
 
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^^^ looks like your confusing rushmatic's statement with slowsentra94's...
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:50 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCoy View Post
^^^ looks like your confusing rushmatic's statement with slowsentra94's...
That's what I was thinking............
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Old 05-25-2007, 01:19 PM   #23 (permalink)
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My bad.

Work has warped my mind lately.

I'll stop sipping the Haterade at slowsentra, but I'll still be gulping it down for rushmatic.
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Old 05-27-2007, 09:58 AM   #24 (permalink)
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KA24DE+T or SR20DET of some sort. RB25, skip the 20 as it's got very little going for it other then cost.
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Old 05-28-2007, 02:20 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Like many others have stated before, It all comes down to what u prefer. Although this is a SR forum I have decided that for my 95 240sx, Its better money wise to just rebuild the KA. Ive herd that with simple upgraded pistions Its pretty easy to get a 9:1 compression ratio. But then again my goal is about 250 - 300 horses with a killer suspension for the ocational track day. Not trying to persuade any one thats just my preference. And plus if my starter decides to take a crap on my I can always just go to the local pepboys.
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Old 05-28-2007, 02:58 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 93sentra View Post
Like many others have stated before, It all comes down to what u prefer. Although this is a SR forum I have decided that for my 95 240sx, Its better money wise to just rebuild the KA. Ive herd that with simple upgraded pistions Its pretty easy to get a 9:1 compression ratio. But then again my goal is about 250 - 300 horses with a killer suspension for the ocational track day. Not trying to persuade any one thats just my preference. And plus if my starter decides to take a crap on my I can always just go to the local pepboys.
If you want to use aftermarket forged pistons then it's REALLY EASY to get any compression ratio you want, as most of them can be made to order.

9:1 compression isn't that much of a drop for the KA, as stock they're 9.5:1 (assuming we're talking about the DE).

And realistically, there are quite a few folks who have had their KA-Ts making between 250-300 rwhp on stock block/stock bottom end and a good tune, so there shouldn't be any reason why you wouldn't be able to make that power with some forged pistons, ARP bolts for the rods, and a good tune.
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Old 05-28-2007, 03:46 PM   #27 (permalink)
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...............

Quote:
Originally Posted by 93sentra View Post
Like many others have stated before, It all comes down to what u prefer. Although this is a SR forum I have decided that for my 95 240sx, Its better money wise to just rebuild the KA. Ive herd that with simple upgraded pistions Its pretty easy to get a 9:1 compression ratio. But then again my goal is about 250 - 300 horses with a killer suspension for the ocational track day. Not trying to persuade any one thats just my preference. And plus if my starter decides to take a crap on my I can always just go to the local pepboys.
If you really want the RB swap check out http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=135 Lots of RB owners here or http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=42. If your goal is 250-300whp that can be done with very minor upgrades, But just because it's a 20 doesn't mean it's cheap. Any RB swap cost alot more than the putting a turbo on your KA or a SR swap. Getting the motor and trans in and wired up is the cheap part, it's mods that are going to kill ya lol. Junking that ugly intake manifold will run you about $750, cams = $650-720, Valve spring run about $350, 6 injectors!!! about $400ish, Chipping the ECU = cheap lol because it's easy to do that. Now with all that said I love my 20 even when it was just side mount intercooler and 3" exhaust. My friend 25 use to kick my ass when I was like that but after I upgraded to a FMIC, intake manifold, PFC (just like his mods) It was a different story . If you do end up going the 20 route try not to rev it past 8k on the stock springs and 8500 with springs. All older RB motors have a problem with the oil pumps crapping out on them at very high revs, it would take a yanking out the crank and putting on a collar to fix it.
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Last edited by Yellow4g63; 05-30-2007 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 05-28-2007, 11:30 PM   #28 (permalink)
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six cylinders sounds great
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:04 AM   #29 (permalink)
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http://www.3rdgearvtec.net/Andys%20Videos/Fontucky/ some rb 20 and 25 vidz.
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Old 05-30-2007, 01:20 AM   #30 (permalink)
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thanx yellow thats some info i can use. well i found the motor tranny harness ecu for mad cheap its like 1100 bucks on tigerjapanese.com i figured i could get that. i thought that rb's liked to get revved high also. i mean i am using this car for daily commute and weekend autox. which might have to change because the ride with my suspension is starting to get annoying espeically since i live in bumpy neighborhooods. got anymore sites i can use to help me with the swap like wiring and extra parts i might need?
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Old 05-30-2007, 01:49 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Those 2 site really helped me when I was doing my swap, This site has some info for wiring on it too. http://www.racebread.com/ That site was started as a joke. Some guy said that RB stands for Race Bread. It was a typo what he ment to say was Race Bred lol. Everyone took the ball and ran with it.
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Old 06-03-2007, 02:45 AM   #32 (permalink)
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SoSideways, the reason why i wanted to rebuld the bottom end is to gain a couple extra horses while also building to maintain reliability.

On the topic of RB My friend from 5 Star (A nissan specialist in Philly) Said that you also have to have custon drive shafts made also when swapping an RB into a S13 or s14. Im not totally sure though because that just what he told me. Can anyone say if this is true or not?

I would only go with RB If I have high horse power goals. Unless your looking for that bling.

SPeaking of goals what are yours? Im pretty sure every one would be able to help out a little more knowing what exactly you are trying to do.
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Old 06-03-2007, 03:33 AM   #33 (permalink)
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here is a web site that will expalin alot of what is needed to swap the rb25 into a 240. http://www.sykoperformance.com/FAQ.htm#cut
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Old 06-03-2007, 04:03 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 93sentra View Post
SoSideways, the reason why i wanted to rebuld the bottom end is to gain a couple extra horses while also building to maintain reliability.

On the topic of RB My friend from 5 Star (A nissan specialist in Philly) Said that you also have to have custon drive shafts made also when swapping an RB into a S13 or s14. Im not totally sure though because that just what he told me. Can anyone say if this is true or not?

I would only go with RB If I have high horse power goals. Unless your looking for that bling.

SPeaking of goals what are yours? Im pretty sure every one would be able to help out a little more knowing what exactly you are trying to do.

RB20 with RB20 trans uses factory S13/S14 driveshaft. Rb25 with RB20 trans uses factory S13/S14 driveshaft. If you run the RB25 trans u need a diffrent driveshaft as the Rb25 trans is longer. Also note that the RB25 trans is alot bigger than the Rb20 trans, sometimes they will sell you a Rb25 with a RB20 trans.
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Old 06-03-2007, 10:36 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I say you go RB26DE. High revving N/A fun! plus it comes with ITB's already.
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Old 06-03-2007, 11:31 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I say you go RB26DE. High revving N/A fun! plus it comes with ITB's already.
Didn't you know?

Any engine that doesn't have at least one turbo on there, fails.

For example, SR20DE, KA24DE, K20A, F20C, etc. The list goes on. The only reason why the RB26 is so cool is because it has 2 "T"s, twoooooooooooooooooo tuuuuuuuuuuurbooooooooooooooooooos. Makes for double cool.
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Old 06-03-2007, 11:36 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Didn't you know?
The better question is, didn't YOU know.

T's are overplayed. If you want old skool sex appeal, you need to floss N/A motors. De-turboing an engine only adds to your street cred. It screams "I could be fast, but I'd rather jock the bitches".

Take notes "SoSideways" I see enough of your ramblings in other posts to know you only back up your statements with "facts". For shame.
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Old 06-03-2007, 11:40 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Oh hell no you didn't.

In that case, my street cred is so huge, I need to rent a house to store my street cred.

I have done exactly what you said. Took my turbo off, and in additional to that, I trump you with running only 2 cylinders out of 4. Only 2 and 3 are running. My firing order goes 3-2-3-2-3-2-3-2-etc.

Car sounds like a WRX and it's pimptastic. It can't even get out of its own way.

600% street cred increase right there.

I should be a level 60 Nissan tuner by now. With the new patch, I hope to max my chit out at level 70 by next week.

Next week's mod. Only running 2 wheels. The front ones. The rear... eh.. I'll just wrap some cut up vacuum hoses around my rotors, so I can get that gangsta front lift thing going.
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Old 06-03-2007, 11:45 AM   #39 (permalink)
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First off, your level of Nissantunerness is clearly inferior to mine. Note my username. That instantly grants me level 99 status. Secondly, thats teh cheap way of doing what I have invented, and named the "WRX MOD"

Step 1. Mess up injector installation so your o-rings are crushed.
Step 2. Wait for massive fuel leak to develop and cause severe idle issues
Step 3. Park next to WRX owners and laugh.

If you need more help in modding your car SoSideways, PM me.
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Old 06-03-2007, 11:48 AM   #40 (permalink)
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That's what n00bs do.

I went like this:

1) Uninstall spark plugs from cyl. 1 and 4.
2) Unplug the coilpacks for cyl. 1 and 4.
3) Leave all 4 injector clips on, so that fuel will be sprayed onto pistons # 1 and 4, so it spits smoke out for James Bond smoke screen.
4) Park with exhaust facing WRX owners and laugh.

Anywho, PMing now.
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