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Well, lately, i have really had the 240sx on my mind. So much so that i am thinking of making a purchase in the near future, im just not really to sure on the details yet...
I had noticed that many other sections have picture threads(NX,200sx,etc...) I noticed that the 240sx section did not have one...Anyone care to start one up? So if you got a 240 be proud and post up some pics!
Since those pics have been taken, I just recently added Z32 front brakes on. 30mm aluminum calipers. Each of these aluminum Z32 calipers weigh about the same as a single stock S13 single piston caliper.
1) Man, I thought MY chit was ugly!
2) I think that might qualify for the "so low your suspension performance suffers" category
1) yeah, well, I never claimed that she could win in a beauty pageant
2) the plan is to dump it as low as it will go and then at track events, stiffen up the springs/shocks as stiff as they will go, so that the suspension don't really move much, that way static camber will help out.
Laugh all you want about the suspension geometry bit, but a lot of road racers have the same exact set up on their MacPhereson strut equipped cars. But probably not as low as mine, with a lot more room for bumps and stuff without hitting anything.
Laugh all you want about the suspension geometry bit, but a lot of road racers have the same exact set up on their MacPhereson strut equipped cars. But probably not as low as mine, with a lot more room for bumps and stuff without hitting anything.
I think as long as you have ultra-stiff springs and damping to match, you'll be OK. But quite a few of the FWD guys here (and quite a few other racers) talk about making changes to get more strut travel, although I admit I'm not sure how detrimental it really is to have it as low as you do.
My picture contribution, my instructor/friend showing me how it's done:
So: That can't be good for performance having the car so low. For mall cruising its probably perfect though I would raise it up about an inch all around. Other that I dig the street beater boosted hotness. My SE-R has similar looks.
Sinis: I'm looking forward to your build, especially if you go with that setup you detailed in the initial thread.
Shift: Looking good. I love K1s and I wish the Rack still had them in S13 fitment.
Here is the "before" shot of our S13. I'm still waiting on some parts so I can have everything powder coated before installation.
__________________ 03.5 G35 Sport 6MT
07 Forester XT Sport 5MT
94 Miata GT28RS powered
93 LS1 240SX Family Project
I think as long as you have ultra-stiff springs and damping to match, you'll be OK. But quite a few of the FWD guys here (and quite a few other racers) talk about making changes to get more strut travel, although I admit I'm not sure how detrimental it really is to have it as low as you do.
I have the 9/7 springs on my Stance coilovers, it's pretty darn stiff.
Not sure why they need more strut travel, as the stock geometry is pretty crappy to begin with, and not to mention, most double adjustable coilovers have a separate lower bracket, which allows for ride height adjustment without affecting shock travel.
As for the 240, the only downside to our chassis is the front wheel well area, where if you don't introduce them to Mr. Sledgehammer, you'd be rubbing all over the place. The front suspension geometry is also less than optimal if you lower it any from stock.
If I ever get a chance to take some measurements of my suspension, I will be working with my friend, and maybe even Andy, depending on the software and equipment you guys can get a hold of, and see if we cannot come up with something that will allow for a lowered ride height and optimal geometry that will allow for negative camber gain under compression, instead of positive, that way we won't have to run so much static negative camber to compensate.
I know the BMWs have a pretty dang good geometry from factory, but they are also quite low already, so 10mm of drop on them usually don't lead to a detrimental suspension geometry.
I de-turbocharged the KA24DE a couple months ago. Currently trying to make up my mind on a SR20DE swap, a DET swap, or go big-balls and drop in a RB25DET. Or I could easily re-turbo the KA24DE. So many choices.
Car was recently repainted and looks even better than these photos.
Latest additions:
A gen-u-ine RS-Watanabe steering wheel. With the Watanabe 8 Spoke wheels on the car, I just *had* to have this steering wheel. Supposedly pretty rare, and I really like the way it feels and looks.
Detail of horn button on RS-Watanabe wheel.
Kent (Rittmeister on the forum) sold me his S14 seats, and they are just faaaaabulous compared to the crappy S13 stock seats. I love them.
__________________ Greg Perry
Huntington, WV
-'93 SE-R, 12.80 @ 110mph
The car: '93 SE-R with a VE
The BEST SR20 manifold on earth: Protech Manifolds
If I ever get a chance to take some measurements of my suspension, I will be working with my friend, and maybe even Andy, depending on the software and equipment you guys can get a hold of, and see if we cannot come up with something that will allow for a lowered ride height and optimal geometry that will allow for negative camber gain under compression, instead of positive, that way we won't have to run so much static negative camber to compensate.
As long as I can call Kojima to get some advice!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoSideways
I know the BMWs have a pretty dang good geometry from factory, but they are also quite low already, so 10mm of drop on them usually don't lead to a detrimental suspension geometry.
Mind if I ask why you think that about the BMW geometry (just curious)? I agree though, the geometry on my M3 is better from what I know. I have it lowered a little in the back, and more in the front (b/c they like to sit higher in the front on old factory equipment), and it still handles very well. Granted I haven't (and may never) tried it out on track.
As for the difference in suspension setup, the main difference in the rear is that the spring and strut aren't concentric. The front only appears to differ in that the sway attaches to the strut body versus the FLCA. I mean, it's still a MacPherson setup. But C&D did call my year M3 the "Best-Handling Car Evar."
Since those pics have been taken, I just recently added Z32 front brakes on. 30mm aluminum calipers. Each of these aluminum Z32 calipers weigh about the same as a single stock S13 single piston caliper.
with a little paintwork(and maybe different suspension setup?) that thing would be one mean-looking machine!
with a little paintwork(and maybe different suspension setup?) that thing would be one mean-looking machine!
What different suspension setup are you talking about?
I have coilovers, Peak Performance RUCA and toe rods, subframe collars, and SPL Parts v1 T/C rods up front. Oh and a HICAS S13 rear sway bar.
Not like I have cut springs and stock shocks....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shift_Munky
I just noticed how close your DP flange is to the ground...Jeebus. Do you have to swerve to miss acorns?
The actual downpipe itself is the lowest point on the entire underbelly of my car. It's the Greddy pipe, the point where it almost 90 degrees under the car, from that point on, to about 4" just before the flange where the cat/test pipe bolts up to, that section is the lowest point, and is not slightly flattened.
I have no had to swerve over acorns, but I think I picked up a road reflector once
Last edited by SoSideways; 08-03-2007 at 03:02 PM.
What different suspension setup are you talking about?
I have coilovers, Peak Performance RUCA and toe rods, subframe collars, and SPL Parts v1 T/C rods up front. Oh and a HICAS S13 rear sway bar.
Not like I have cut springs and stock shocks....
Yeah , well i meant no offense by it, but dang that thing is slammed...but if thats the way you like it well then thats cool...dont you ever think it might be too low?
I love how low it is right now. Handles amazing for the most part, but I do get some body roll due to the extremely screwed up roll center.
Then again, I hadn't addressed sway bars yet. Once I get some stiffer sway bars the car should corner much flatter.
However, right now, the left/right transitions are amazing. The car can change direction like crazy. The only downfall is the sloppy steering, due to worn outter tie rod ends, so as soon as I get some money, I'm getting myself a pair of Tein tie rods and tie rod ends, and getting my HICAS steering rack on. That should be awesome
The actual downpipe itself is the lowest point on the entire underbelly of my car. It's the Greddy pipe, the point where it almost 90 degrees under the car, from that point on, to about 4" just before the flange where the cat/test pipe bolts up to, that section is the lowest point, and is not slightly flattened.
I have no had to swerve over acorns, but I think I picked up a road reflector once
Chit. My car sits like a dump truck and my DP will catch the dovetail lip if the trailer isn't angled enough for loading/unloading. I cannto imagine being able to load it if the car were THAT low.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoSideways
However, right now, the left/right transitions are amazing. The car can change direction like crazy. The only downfall is the sloppy steering, due to worn outter tie rod ends, so as soon as I get some money, I'm getting myself a pair of Tein tie rods and tie rod ends, and getting my HICAS steering rack on. That should be awesome
HICAS steering racks are nice. Do me a favor...rock it w/o PS. Otherwise I'll deduct 3 cool points.
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) that thing would be one mean-looking machine!
