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Now I know the norm is to put a SR20DET into the 240, but has anyone ever thought about putting one of the newer S14 or S15 SR20DE's into the 240? they make like 160hp so it would be nice NA car, also because its a SR20 the power potential would be the same as with our SR20DE's but even more with the variable intake cam. Anyone know where to find a S14 or S15 SR20DE? And what do you think?
Thats funy! afew months ago i was thinking about the same thing, execpt i wanted to put in a s14 97. The s14 sr20de is very cheap and i was quoted for a 98 motor $1100 ecu,trany etc. compare the price of the same motor det and is nearly $2100 or $2200 more...So i thought with the extra cost of the det motor i can buy a manifold,550cc inj, and the greddy e-manage ecu to control timming, injectors, z32 afm and offcourse other things; but that was just a thought which i'm still thinking about it.
If others can get 300whp plus out of usdm sr 20 i think it can be done with the s14 sr20de, as long as it is properly tuned..I think it is a better idea to spend $1100 on that motor and spend the rest on upgrades rather than start with a $3200 or $ 3400 motor to then get upgrades..
I guess great minds think alike Just keep this on the dl so the importers don't jack up the cost like they did on the det. You would be surprised how clueless the 240 guys are when it comes to the na sr20. I plan on putting an na engine in my S13 and doing the "normal" bolt on turbo parts that is common with the fwds.
__________________ 91 SE-R w/DET
02 G20 Sport 5spd
94 Miata "homobile"
93 240SX Family Project
"Any man who is under 30, and is not a liberal, has no heart; and any man who is over 30, and is not a conservative, has no brains." Winston Churchill
u'd be better off w/ turbochargin ur KA or puttin in a DET. the N/A RWD SR comes w/ 9.5:1 comp. vs. KA 9:1. which means u'll be able to push just a lil more boost safely. then theres the extra .4 liters. which i would kill for in my fwd sr20. and the fact that the KA motor has oil squirters in the block just like the DET, which the N/A SR doesnt have.
__________________
Red '91 Nissan Sentra SE-R
w/ UK SR20DE the real 10:1 compression motor
"BOOST" COMING SOON OCTOBER 2007
If you're talking bang for the buck, there's no other route than DET. If you're planning on buying a DE and then boosting it, you'll be spending at least $3000 doing a decent job at it (it meaning just the turbo system, not the engine), or $5000 doing a great job. That's way more than your DET engine price difference. And you'll be spending more than that if you want to get an na engine to have comparable performance. Go DET. It's cheaper in the long run, and with the de you'll have pitifully weak torque on a 240.
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Not following the FSM while adjusting timing = engine go boom. Now I have a Mazda 3 hatch. Can't wait for a header!
So why would anyone ever bother bolting turbo parts on their fwd de's? Everyone should just buy bb and avenir engines instead right? Beacuse they are "designed for boost" from the factory and are better? Thats faulty logic my friends.
I know you two are newbies and all but you can make more power with the 9.5:1 engines at the same boost and they are just as strong and reliable. The only reason to swap in a det is when the stock engine is dead or dying (like mine was when I put the det in my classic).
Why bother paying the outrageous prices for factory rwd det's just because they got popular? You can get a de for less then 1/2 the price and get det take off parts dirt cheap and "roll your own" so to speak.
The DE in S13 sounds like a good idea to me. I didn't care for the KA very much, it didn't sound to great, does have a slightly lower redline. Also it seems to me, the KA tends to throw rods compared to the SR.
Put in a DE from a S13 is a better than the S14 anyway. the VTC (variable valve timing) seems to aid power in stock form but hinder it when modding. Also the S14 motors are also low-ports so the S13 another benefit.
So my choice would be SR20DE turboed.
__________________ Still learning...
[STORED] 1994 G20 (QN0)--B13 SE-R 5-Speed, I/H/E, AGX:.Tanabe Rear swaybar:.Carbing RSTB and some other things. Converted JDM highport
[SOLD] 1991 240SX Coupe (KH3)---SR-powered! 12psi, 3" Apexi DP, Fujitsubo catback....miss it
[GONE] 1993 B13 SE-R (KH3)...it was a fast little sucker
Why ?? Add a few boltons , mabie a good set of cams and you will be well over 160 HP with the KA .... My KA24DE in my Altima made over 220 HP with 10.5:1 comp, cams and boltons ... and had a TON of torque !! Why go the the work of swaping in an SR when you already have a great engine !! OK , I will say if you absolutely have to have a high reving engine , then SR is the way to go , but if your that way buy a Honda !! KA will amost always make more power with equal mods and will ALWAYS make alot more torque ......
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SHAWN
Ger-Brock Performance
Portland OR.
'93 Altima SE 5spd. 13.97 @ 97.6 MPH All Motor !!
'98 Sentra SE.. Time Attack
'06 Pathfinder SE
'93 Infiniti G20 5spd.
13.08@107 MPH SR20DET T25 TMIC..
12.06@119 Built DET,T3/T04e/FMIC .... My Nissan Site !!
Last edited by SHAWNATGERBROCK : 10-22-2003 at 07:28 PM.
So why would anyone ever bother bolting turbo parts on their fwd de's? Everyone should just buy bb and avenir engines instead right? Beacuse they are "designed for boost" from the factory and are better? Thats faulty logic my friends.
I know you two are newbies and all but you can make more power with the 9.5:1 engines at the same boost and they are just as strong and reliable. The only reason to swap in a det is when the stock engine is dead or dying (like mine was when I put the det in my classic).
Why bother paying the outrageous prices for factory rwd det's just because they got popular? You can get a de for less then 1/2 the price and get det take off parts dirt cheap and "roll your own" so to speak.
reason people put turbo parts on their fwd DE motors is b/c the parts are so easy 2 come by. and they bolt rite up to their motor. (maybe they dont **** go through the hassle of motor swaps).
Its great that u think *** newbie just *** i have lil posts but ive been workin on 240sx's, Se-r's, and all other nissans at performance shops since i was 15 (this means doin swaps,rebuildin, upgradin) so dont say that they are just as strong and reliable. have u ever seen DE & DET rods. DET rods are noticeably beefier, DET has sodium filled valves which can withstand a whole lot more heat, and have oil squirters in the block unlike the DE motors have.
theres no point in buyin a rwd de and then havin to go and purchase injs. manifold, turbo, dp, harness, ecu all the other crap when all u gotta do is save ur self sum stressful time and buy a rwd DET is gonna end up costin the same.
which alls go back to why fwd DE's put turbos on their cars *** its easy and cheap to do.
sorry its a long post but i dont appreciate it when ppl call u a newbie when they dont know me.
RWD det parts are just as easy to come by b/c people are upgrading their setups all the time. They are also just as easy to bolt on.
No offense intended on the newbie comment. I have never seen your name around and I have been in the fwd SR20 community for a number of years.
I do believe the are just as strong and reliable as factory det engines. The sodium filled valves and oil squiters do not make a night and day difference bewteen the two engines. I've never heard of the det rods being any stronger then the de ones. I've never seen GTiR rods though...
Hmm, lets see here. det $2500+ or de $800, 370 inj $125, mani $150, t25 $200, downpipe $125, ecu $200 (or $100 if you already have a wolf ecu like me).
I'll take the $1600 setup that makes more power and spools faster thank you.
I can make the same argument for bolting the parts on a rwd de as you make for bolting the parts on a fwd de. There really is not much of a difference.
If rwd det's were not so ungodly marked up in price due to the current popularity of the swap then I would go with one. 2 years ago you could buy a whole front clip with full usable Silvia body panels for $2000. Now that setup would cost $3500.
Again, no offense on the newbie comment but you are new to this board.
Matt
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaClassicUNV
reason people put turbo parts on their fwd DE motors is b/c the parts are so easy 2 come by. and they bolt rite up to their motor. (maybe they dont **** go through the hassle of motor swaps).
Its great that u think *** newbie just *** i have lil posts but ive been workin on 240sx's, Se-r's, and all other nissans at performance shops since i was 15 (this means doin swaps,rebuildin, upgradin) so dont say that they are just as strong and reliable. have u ever seen DE & DET rods. DET rods are noticeably beefier, DET has sodium filled valves which can withstand a whole lot more heat, and have oil squirters in the block unlike the DE motors have.
theres no point in buyin a rwd de and then havin to go and purchase injs. manifold, turbo, dp, harness, ecu all the other crap when all u gotta do is save ur self sum stressful time and buy a rwd DET is gonna end up costin the same.
which alls go back to why fwd DE's put turbos on their cars *** its easy and cheap to do.
sorry its a long post but i dont appreciate it when ppl call u a newbie when they dont know me.
RWD det parts are just as easy to come by b/c people are upgrading their setups all the time. They are also just as easy to bolt on.
No offense intended on the newbie comment. I have never seen your name around and I have been in the fwd SR20 community for a number of years.
I do believe the are just as strong and reliable as factory det engines. The sodium filled valves and oil squiters do not make a night and day difference bewteen the two engines. I've never heard of the det rods being any stronger then the de ones. I've never seen GTiR rods though...
Hmm, lets see here. det $2500+ or de $800, 370 inj $125, mani $150, t25 $200, downpipe $125, ecu $200 (or $100 if you already have a wolf ecu like me).
I'll take the $1600 setup that makes more power and spools faster thank you.
I can make the same argument for bolting the parts on a rwd de as you make for bolting the parts on a fwd de. There really is not much of a difference.
If rwd det's were not so ungodly marked up in price due to the current popularity of the swap then I would go with one. 2 years ago you could buy a whole front clip with full usable Silvia body panels for $2000. Now that setup would cost $3500.
Again, no offense on the newbie comment but you are new to this board.
Matt
The $1600 (as u explained) will not make more power much less run rite. If u use a rwd DE SR ecu (programmed for 259cc inj) ur gonna run like piss. 2 get it 2 run rite u'd have 2 buy a det harness complete w/ ignitor and coil pack harness w/ det ecu, and u'll have to buy a crank angle sensor as well as det maf(which u should know none of these items i pointed out come on the DE but are very critical not to mention a bit pricey) which'll pretty much cum up to ur DET price of $2500.
which is also very pricey for a DET. im doin an sr motor swap rite now at my friend's house he bought his complete (motor/harness/ecu/transmission) w/ 78,000km for $1300(good motor 2). granted there are places that r a bit pricey but all u gotta do is search. and i think thats the better deal. but then again complete det's dont sell for more than $1800 down here in the importer shops we have in florida but ive heard that its just cheaper down here.
Why ?? Add a few boltons , mabie a good set of cams and you will be well over 160 HP with the KA .... My KA24DE in my Altima made over 220 HP with 10.5:1 comp, cams and boltons ... and had a TON of torque !! Why go the the work of swaping in an SR when you already have a great engine !! OK , I will say if you absolutely have to have a high reving engine , then SR is the way to go , but if your that way buy a Honda !! KA will amost always make more power with equal mods and will ALWAYS make alot more torque ......
SR isn't a high reving engine compared to a KA, 500 rpms is not that much more. You want rev mind as well swap in a CA18DET.
Prior to having a KA I had an SR and loved the throttle response. Jumped in the 240 with the KA24DE, I disappointed with it. No matter how its put, I wasn't in love with the KA. That was my main reason (along with 'factory' turbo) for the SR DET in the 240 but I was disappointed slightly because it too has reduced response. However for me the KA just didn't click. I'm not going to lie, reading all the coverage the 240s have gotten within the last 2 years did get me going.
Is the KA a bad motor imho? no...just wasn't for me.
Besides I got a great deal on my motorset, it was $1500 and it was local so no shipping either.
The $1600 (as u explained) will not make more power much less run rite. If u use a rwd DE SR ecu (programmed for 259cc inj) ur gonna run like piss. 2 get it 2 run rite u'd have 2 buy a det harness complete w/ ignitor and coil pack harness w/ det ecu, and u'll have to buy a crank angle sensor as well as det maf(which u should know none of these items i pointed out come on the DE but are very critical not to mention a bit pricey) which'll pretty much cum up to ur DET price of $2500.
which is also very pricey for a DET. im doin an sr motor swap rite now at my friend's house he bought his complete (motor/harness/ecu/transmission) w/ 78,000km for $1300(good motor 2). granted there are places that r a bit pricey but all u gotta do is search. and i think thats the better deal. but then again complete det's dont sell for more than $1800 down here in the importer shops we have in florida but ive heard that its just cheaper down here.
The DET ecu, and det harness, CAS won't be required if you turbo a rwd DE. The disty from the DE will work fine along with the ecu (just needs jwt or someone to tune it). How many fwd DET you see on this board with disty's? MANY. Aftermarket turbo kits for other motors? they don't convert the motors to use coil packs...Although it would be smart to upgrade the igntion to Jacobs or MSD but definately not a requirement.
As for pricing, The average price with a proper motorset seems to be about 2300-2500 for a redtop, 2600-2800 for S13/S14 blacktops. That's internet pricing however. 1800 seems insanely cheap though.
Actually you would be surprised at how a 370 cc inj car runs with a de ecu. Yes it is not optimal and it will be pretty rich but many people have run their cars like that with no problem. If you bore the maf then it leans it out a little and runs even better. As I explained before I have a jwt ecu that I would just have to get programmed for $100 though.
Please give me the number for the shop that sold your friend his det for $1300 complete. If you have a website thats even better. As I stated in an earlier post I have not seen any decent det's from reputable companies for under $2500 complete with everything necessary including the coilpacks, power transistor, and uncut harness. I would take a det over a de but I just have not found any that were not incredibly marked up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaClassicUNV
The $1600 (as u explained) will not make more power much less run rite. If u use a rwd DE SR ecu (programmed for 259cc inj) ur gonna run like piss. 2 get it 2 run rite u'd have 2 buy a det harness complete w/ ignitor and coil pack harness w/ det ecu, and u'll have to buy a crank angle sensor as well as det maf(which u should know none of these items i pointed out come on the DE but are very critical not to mention a bit pricey) which'll pretty much cum up to ur DET price of $2500.
which is also very pricey for a DET. im doin an sr motor swap rite now at my friend's house he bought his complete (motor/harness/ecu/transmission) w/ 78,000km for $1300(good motor 2). granted there are places that r a bit pricey but all u gotta do is search. and i think thats the better deal. but then again complete det's dont sell for more than $1800 down here in the importer shops we have in florida but ive heard that its just cheaper down here.
Yes, please post this website for all of us. I'll be doing a DET swap eventually - I thought about the DE plus turbo bits but decided that spending the extra money was worth it to me not to have to do the extra part-sourcing and work - and the cheaper I can find it, the better.
DaClassicUNV, we appreciate your input. Part of the reason (I think) that the newb comment was directed at you is the spelling and punctuation you're using. Most guys around this board, myself included, are old dudes who are used to real words and complete sentences. When we see the new internet lingo we generally think it's a youngster. On the other hand I could be wrong and I don't want to put words in Matt's mouth... Anyway, welcome and all that. It's good to have a few more folks around the 240 section of the board.
Just keep this on the dl so the importers don't jack up the cost like they did on the det. You would be surprised how clueless the 240 guys are when it comes to the na sr20. I plan on putting an na engine in my S13 and doing the "normal" bolt on turbo parts that is common with the fwds.
