-theres some info for a switch
There's a link on wiring....... Also have this info from Edgesz28.com for thermostatically controlled wiring.
Anyway, below is an economical and dependable way to build your own automatic electric fan control system. Keep in mind that this system can also work with any fan(s) that does not come with a control box like the Flex-a-lite #210 unit. Just run a 30-amp relay(s), in-line fuse(s) and a thermostatic switch. If you do not want to spend $60+ for an aftermarket kit (like Painless with one relay, sensor, wire, etc.), here's what you do:
Relays and Switches:
Buy a relay(s) from a local parts store and a thermostatic control switch from Carquest. Pep Boys carries "Pilot" relays for about $5 each. Note: most electric fan companies recommend running two relays with separate battery feeds when using two fans. Even if two relays are used, the same signal wire can be split and activate both relays. Go to Carquest and ask to look through their Temperature Control Products catalog. Look for a fan switch that is normally "open" that most closely matches the on-off range you want. Here are some available temperature range options with January 2003 prices in Columbia, SC:
1. Part #207620 (New #TS157): On 185*/Off 176*. About $30 and looks like 3/8" NPT. Came in 86-94 Hyundai and 87-89 Mitsubishi. Part #207885 has same temp. range, is about $32 also looks like 3/8" NPT. It came in 90-95 Hyundai.
2. Part #207875 (New #TS327): On 190*/Off 174*. About $26 and the catalog says .621" thread. Came in 86-89 Chevy.
3. Part #207453 (New #TS90): On 194*/Off 180*. About $16 and looks like either 3/8" or 1/4" NPT. Came in 82-85 Nissan.
4. Part #207454: On 197*/Off 188*. About $30 and is a 3/8" NPT. Came in 88-97 Nissan.
Run full battery power from the starter solenoid or alternator "Battery" terminal to the relay with 10 ga. wire and an inline 30 amp fuse, then out from the relay to the fan's positive terminal with 10 ga. wire. Run a +12v wire (14-16 ga.) from an ignition source to the thermostatic switch, then to the relay's signal spade. Relays pull very low amps so big gauge wire is not needed for the signal function. You will also have to ground the relay. The relay has a wiring diagram stamped on its side so you will know which spades to hook up the four wires to. Since the relay spades are so close together, either wrap the female terminal connectors with electrical tape or use shrink wrap.
Alternate Battery Power Method: Run an 8 ga. wire from the alternator “Battery” terminal to a junction block or fuse block near the driver’s side headlight. Then run a 10 ga. wire from the J-block or fuse block to the relay(s). If you use this method, you can also run your headlights on relays (one for low beams, and one for high beams). Using headlight relays is an awesome upgrade. I choose to use the fuse block method (the one in the photo at the right came from Advance Auto Parts), but an economical and safe way to do your lights and/or fans is with a J-block and either in-line fuses or fusible links. By running your fans and lights with relays, you will have less voltage drop and a better performing electrical system. This is also very helpful at idle when using underdrive pulleys. If you want to use the J-block method, please visit www.madelectrical.com
. This is an excellent automotive electrical solutioins company. Since there are many ways to set up an electrical system, please take the tme to read all the various sections of their catalog and techincal sections.
Whatever method you use, a homemade system works well, is dependable, and since it is wired to an ignition source from the fuse panel, you will not have to remember to turn it on. Just for piece of mind, I wired a small LED amber light (Radio Shack) in the dash. Run a 14-16 gauge wire from the LED light spliced into the 10 ga. wire between the relay and fan. As you watch the temperature climbing, you will know exactly when (if) the fan comes on. Since I never throw away scraps of wire, I had enough lying around to do the entire installation. Even if I had to buy the wire and solderless connectors, I would have only spent about $35. Bottom line, go automatic and save money while you do it!