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Old 12-06-2004, 08:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Fan wiring

Got a dual 10" Flexalite setup for my 240. It came with a temperature sensor that's supposed to mount inside the upper radiator hose - frankly at this point I'm not interested in going that way.

I plan to wire the thing direct to the fuel pump so that the fans will come on with the key, but also put a switch in the wiring so I can have a bit more control.

Eventually, I want to make it temperature controlled. There's some kind of sensor in the lower radiator hose (I started with a single-cam car) that controlled a stock auxiliary fan in front of the condensor, but I removed the fan, and I don't know what temp the switch is supposed to kick in at anyway...

Here's the question: I keep hearing rumors of a temp sensor that has a probe that mounts on the OUTSIDE of the radiator, that you can get at AutoZone/Pepboys/whatever. I haven't been able to find one though. Does anyone know a manufacturer, or part number, or can even just confirm the existence of such a device? I'd really like to avoid draining the coolant if possible to set this up.

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Old 12-06-2004, 10:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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How accurate *could* that be, Kent? If air is moving through/around the radiator, a probe on the outside would constantly be heating up/cooling down. IMHO.

What about using a Nissport upper radiator hose adapter to mount a probe into?
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Old 12-06-2004, 10:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I thought about that also - I just don't know enough about how all of that works. I guess with that I wouldn't have to completely drain the rad, just down past the hose.

I don't think I could just replace the probe that's on the temp controller that came with my fans; it's on the end of a long copper tube that attaches directly to a big black box. I don't know if it's liquid-filled or what.

I also don't know if the Nissport rad hose adapter would fit a RWD SR hose, I'd have to measure. Decisions, decisions.

Any other ideas?
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Old 12-06-2004, 11:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Been doing research on Summit Racing. Derale, Flexalite, Hypertech, Mr. Gasket, Painless Performance, Permacool, and Summit themselves all carry fixed or adjustable thermostatic controls that have probes that go between the radiator fins.

What I need is someone that actually has experience with these things, and whether they work or not. Does Summit have a tech line, or salespeople who know about their products? Or are they basically going to tell me to find out myself if I call and ask about this stuff?
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I know that there is a exterior mounted coolant temp sensor.,, And it does work, I don't have a part number or anything but i picked it up from advance discount autoparts not to long ago
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have my fans wired into the radio accessory wire so they turn on and off with the key.

I have not had any instances where I have needed to have the fans turned off.

I could have mounted a switch in the car or I could unplug my fans if I need them off for maintenence.
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Old 12-07-2004, 10:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Summit has an excellent Tech Line, Kent. Get the # from their website.
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Old 12-07-2004, 11:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I have those intalled in my roommates car with dual 12" fal fans, it moves some air, you just get the probe as close as possible to the radiator, and adjust the switch as good as you can, his car has never overheated or gotten hot, in hot and humid TX weather.
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The part is like $15-23 at Discount I think. You clip it to the radiator fins. I have heard they work well, but Greg makes a good point also.
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Old 12-14-2004, 06:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/IC_Fan/IC_Fan.htm-theres some info for a switch

There's a link on wiring....... Also have this info from Edgesz28.com for thermostatically controlled wiring.


Anyway, below is an economical and dependable way to build your own automatic electric fan control system. Keep in mind that this system can also work with any fan(s) that does not come with a control box like the Flex-a-lite #210 unit. Just run a 30-amp relay(s), in-line fuse(s) and a thermostatic switch. If you do not want to spend $60+ for an aftermarket kit (like Painless with one relay, sensor, wire, etc.), here's what you do:
Relays and Switches:
Buy a relay(s) from a local parts store and a thermostatic control switch from Carquest. Pep Boys carries "Pilot" relays for about $5 each. Note: most electric fan companies recommend running two relays with separate battery feeds when using two fans. Even if two relays are used, the same signal wire can be split and activate both relays. Go to Carquest and ask to look through their Temperature Control Products catalog. Look for a fan switch that is normally "open" that most closely matches the on-off range you want. Here are some available temperature range options with January 2003 prices in Columbia, SC:
1. Part #207620 (New #TS157): On 185*/Off 176*. About $30 and looks like 3/8" NPT. Came in 86-94 Hyundai and 87-89 Mitsubishi. Part #207885 has same temp. range, is about $32 also looks like 3/8" NPT. It came in 90-95 Hyundai.
2. Part #207875 (New #TS327): On 190*/Off 174*. About $26 and the catalog says .621" thread. Came in 86-89 Chevy.
3. Part #207453 (New #TS90): On 194*/Off 180*. About $16 and looks like either 3/8" or 1/4" NPT. Came in 82-85 Nissan.
4. Part #207454: On 197*/Off 188*. About $30 and is a 3/8" NPT. Came in 88-97 Nissan.

Run full battery power from the starter solenoid or alternator "Battery" terminal to the relay with 10 ga. wire and an inline 30 amp fuse, then out from the relay to the fan's positive terminal with 10 ga. wire. Run a +12v wire (14-16 ga.) from an ignition source to the thermostatic switch, then to the relay's signal spade. Relays pull very low amps so big gauge wire is not needed for the signal function. You will also have to ground the relay. The relay has a wiring diagram stamped on its side so you will know which spades to hook up the four wires to. Since the relay spades are so close together, either wrap the female terminal connectors with electrical tape or use shrink wrap.

Alternate Battery Power Method: Run an 8 ga. wire from the alternator “Battery” terminal to a junction block or fuse block near the driver’s side headlight. Then run a 10 ga. wire from the J-block or fuse block to the relay(s). If you use this method, you can also run your headlights on relays (one for low beams, and one for high beams). Using headlight relays is an awesome upgrade. I choose to use the fuse block method (the one in the photo at the right came from Advance Auto Parts), but an economical and safe way to do your lights and/or fans is with a J-block and either in-line fuses or fusible links. By running your fans and lights with relays, you will have less voltage drop and a better performing electrical system. This is also very helpful at idle when using underdrive pulleys. If you want to use the J-block method, please visit www.madelectrical.com. This is an excellent automotive electrical solutioins company. Since there are many ways to set up an electrical system, please take the tme to read all the various sections of their catalog and techincal sections.
Conclusion:
Whatever method you use, a homemade system works well, is dependable, and since it is wired to an ignition source from the fuse panel, you will not have to remember to turn it on. Just for piece of mind, I wired a small LED amber light (Radio Shack) in the dash. Run a 14-16 gauge wire from the LED light spliced into the 10 ga. wire between the relay and fan. As you watch the temperature climbing, you will know exactly when (if) the fan comes on. Since I never throw away scraps of wire, I had enough lying around to do the entire installation. Even if I had to buy the wire and solderless connectors, I would have only spent about $35. Bottom line, go automatic and save money while you do it!
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Old 12-16-2004, 09:40 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have the painless wiring kit...with the probe mounted in the upper radiator hose housing...Little drill and tap action and looks real clean..Fans come on at 220. and go off at 175 or 180...??? BUt no overheating problams at all. nice kit..
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Old 12-16-2004, 03:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The problem with that is that I want to drill and tap my nice aluminum radiator even less than just disconnecting the hose. Or does the probe go in the water outlet on the head?
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Old 12-16-2004, 06:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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yep the inlet on the head is what i did...looks nice..
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