sr20boston

Note: This thread originally was online, but was mistakenly deleted. Old backups were used to get it back, but it had to be manually copied-and-pasted here.

Original thread started by Ben.



I've seen this happen too many times now. Mark did it, Eric Tucker did it, John Minnic did it, probably many others.

Turbo+clutch+ECU/injectors+intercooler system+MAF+ (edit) head swap+ES bushings all around, etc, all this crap should NOT be put on at the same time. If after you put ALL this in and it doesn't run right, then what did you monkey up? You have NO idea because you installed too much at once. You NEED to do a turbo install in STEPS.

This is assuming you have a stock clutch and no turbo system yet (stock injectors).

Step 1: The first thing you should do is put in the clutch. Break it in 500 miles. No less, and baby it. After 500 miles, test it. If it seems EXACTLY how you want it (clutch cable adjustment, no gritch, etc) then go to step 2.

Step 2: Get the proper JWT ECU/injectors/MAF combination and install them, NA. Run that around for a week or so, again, WITH NO TURBO SYSTEM. If this runs well, then go to step 3.

Step 3: If you are installing cams, do that next. I expect the ECU has the S3/S4 program already in you ECU that you installed in Step 2 so your idle will be good. And it's NOT JUST FOR YOUR IDLE QUALITY, it's ALSO to make it easier to set your timing properly!!!

Step 4: Now, and only now, is it time to install your turbo system. Manifold, turbo, oil feed and return lines (drilling and tapping could have been done anytime in the past, but it's ok to do it here too), intake and intercooler piping, wastegate (if external), recirculation valve (have to be politically correct in the Nissan world, can't call it a blowoff valve), boost gauge, downpipe, possibly more gauges. Now if it doesn't run right, it can be attributed to the mere components you just installed.

Life is MUCH easier this way. Please follow it. You will thank me.