A lot of what you are looking for can be found in the SE-R Race Series Yahoo Group Archive. Everyone has done a pretty good job of explaining and documenting fixes (especially Naji).
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Originally Posted by HotshtSR20
really low SE-Rs roadracing like to eat axles. OEM axles seem to be the only ones that last.
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I prefer the new OEM axle route. We replaced our 160k+ axles with new ones and haven't had any issues. Others have found used OEM axles work well. While others have been rebuilding their axles with the OEM boot kit and high quality grease. The problem with cheapie axles failing was narrowed down to the cheap rubber boots and cheap grease they used and not ride height (although most assume that plays some factor).
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Originally Posted by HotshtSR20
oil coolers and ducting are the best way to improve cooling issues. Stanza or N1 water pump pullies work well too, but require clearancing.
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That is one school of thought. The other has been to replace the stock water pump with an electric one. We went this route and got the $280 SR20 Meziere kit from Summit and haven't really had any heating issues with the stock NX radiator and no oil cooler. After the accident we lost the stock radiator and got a larger aluminum replacement and expect no problems at all. I guess the NX'es just run cooler... they certainly look cooler, right Greg?
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Originally Posted by HotshtSR20
cryo/shotpeening and Ultra heavy shockproof are almost necesary to get a tranny to last a reasonable time. the shockproof is mandatory, as are regular drain intervals (like 2 times a season).
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Spoke like a true turbo guy! Maybe in an SRX car, but most people haven't had any transmission issues at all. Those that had problems either were running substantially more power than stock or using harsher clutches. Tom had to replace his trans, but I think that was the same trans he ran turbo on. He also had some multi-disk pack which caused some problems. Naji had tranny issues, but I am not sure he was using the Shockproof and think he traced his problem to a harsh clutch.
Those that use the Shockproof with 2000 SE disk and mostly OEM parts have been near bulletproof. I know Naji has this combo and he's been running strong. We've been running our original trans through a decade of hotlapping and racing using the 2000 SE disk, Quaife and Ultra Heavy Shockproof without problems.
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Originally Posted by HotshtSR20
tow hooks will make your bumpers last a LOT longer if you break down on the track.
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I don't know any Cup racer who've lost a bumper to towing. Usually we just attach the tow strap to the A pillar of the roll cage, but rarely to SE-Rs get stranded.
Rocker retainers might be a good idea. More than once a Cup racer have missed a shift and had to replace valvetrain bits.
Zip tie your plug wires. OEM wires are less susceptible to falling off, but we've had this problem once or twice- coil wire popping off at the most inopportune moment.
