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How many people have hit 100kw atw from their NA SR20DE? I imagine it certainly isn't a difficult thing to do, as 100atw is a fairly modest ask from an SR... But most of the mods I can find are described with mere theoretical power increase figures (which is understandable but still).
Would anyone who's actually 'been there and done that' like to share how they managed to get there?
Heres one example of a car I know of thats reeled off an impressive 109atw with a fairly lightly modded SR20:
if you read the below post you'll find that he should be easily making more power than his current 109fwkw (146whp) as the possible solutions were already discovered: http://forum.pulsar.org.au/showthrea...t=40553&page=5
he also had the 256deg tomeis during those runs... for a cam smaller than S3s, he's making pretty good power.....
anyways, what else does everyone else in the US of A think?
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-~10.8:1 CR (2mm Shave) + 17° timing
-WAI: Aluminium Intake w/ OBX Foam POD
-Hurricane Headers w/ 1.75' Secondaries
-2.5' Mandrel Bent Cat Back system.
-KYB GR2 Struts on Stock Springs
-Prothane Motor Mount Inserts
-NGK Iridiums (BR6) + Top Gun 8mm Leads
-Shortshifter + Nismo GK
- Crane LX91 Ignition Coil
-Adj. FPR @ 45psi Vac On
-JDM Inlet Manifold (No EGR!!!)
lol...im lookin at the pic on that thread.....thinkin "the left side of that engine bay looks wierd for some reason" ....oh yeah, RHD/no master cyl ....lol.
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B.J. Walker
1993 Aztec Red NX2000
1993 White 240sx Hatchback
WEll my S14 RWD SR20de put out 97.5rwkw at the last dyno so im close lol, had pod filter, CAI and 2.5"exaust with custom headers, havent opened the block up or anything. What cams would you guys recommend to get me over the 100kw mark (bear in mind it is a street car 95% or the time so i dont want too lumpy of an idle) If it was in a FWD id imagine i would have over 100fwkw as theres less drivetrain loss to a fwd car.
WEll my S14 RWD SR20de put out 97.5rwkw at the last dyno so im close lol, had pod filter, CAI and 2.5"exaust with custom headers, havent opened the block up or anything. What cams would you guys recommend to get me over the 100kw mark (bear in mind it is a street car 95% or the time so i dont want too lumpy of an idle) If it was in a FWD id imagine i would have over 100fwkw as theres less drivetrain loss to a fwd car.
Ah not a bad result Have you thought about a/m management? I'm looking at BikiROM atm, looks like pretty promising stuff
What cams would you guys recommend to get me over the 100kw mark (bear in mind it is a street car 95% or the time so i dont want too lumpy of an idle).
I would recommend JWT s4 cams. They are in my daily driver and work great, not too lumpy at all and great power after 3700 rpm all the way to redline.
as far as cams concerns i reccomend jwt s4s. I had them in my car for more than 70.000km and perform outrageous for a street daily car. Most important, driveability is still very good(i had raized my idlee at 950) and you can pass smog easily(0.0co and 8hc at idle, 0.1 and 7 at 2500).
JWT S4s would be a good investment, but they arent quite as readily available in Aus as they are in the states. Tomei cams are comperable, im running the 260/11.2's atm, and with a 2.25 press bent exhasut in the standard comp SR20 i did 97.4kw. The Tomeis are much easier to obtain in Aus through even PGA based Distributors.
However, i do beleive, for those from Aus, that are interested in the JWT S4s, PhilSSStevenson on PGA just put them in his car, afaik hes in Brisbane.
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Andrez
N14 Pulsar
14.781 @93.44MPH 2.249 60Ft WSID 10th Nov 2004
How would these s4 or tomie cams effect the NVCS (NVCS= Nissan Valve Timing Control System, a two stage variable valve timing system) in my motor, and roughly how much extra power do they give? Also would i need to get a new ecu. I know a guy that makes and can program daughter boards for the SR20 so i might be able to go through him (can anyone tell me what, if anything would need to be changed, ie timing, air fuel ratio etc) Iv also seen a few posts where people reccomend using 300zx pistons to up the compression, is this a straight swap and drive thing or are other bits, or a tune required.
Ps im not in the state so emission testing etc isnt a problem for me
....oh yeah, RHD/no master cyl
....lol.
