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I'm not really happy with these numbers but i'll post em to try and get some feedback on what it could be. JDM SR20 with all bolt ons except ECU and flywheel. Timing was set at 17 on these runs. Well here they are.
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Peter M.
2004 Mazda6 S
92 SENTRA SE-R TURBO sold 2/9/2005
Hmmm...every bolt on and a jdm and ur pushing under 140whp. I dunno man, those #'s seem kinda low with the mods that you got. Is your car in tune?? Maf regrounded?? Throttle body clean? its gotta be something.
check your tps voltage at WOT. if it's ~4.18v or more, try backing it down some. but no less than 4.10v. mine was at 4.23v until today. 4.17v (now) made a significant sotp improvement.
Cai or Wai?
What about your plugs?
What size exhaust?
__________________ Jonathan 94 LE "Im going to get groceries in the gas sipper" 93 G20 "Im cruising tonight" 2004 Quest "The NEW Papi Bus" To school and back in 45 minutes
do you have cams?>? I have a 92 with all bolt ons and are putting in s4s this weekend. if i dont get 150+ on the DYNO, im going to be pissed!!!! check your TPS, something looks funky...
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218WHP/228 TQ WAI only 02 6MT A33B
Yeah I know it is low. Hurts to even look at the numbers, but the car kicks ass on the street though. Driving it decent and it still pulls rather nicely.
PR CAI, HKS Exhaust, Nissan Plat Plugs and wires.
Got a dyno coming in shortly here and we will check over all these things then. I have a feeling there is some hidden power there and I want it back.
Quote:
Originally posted by SmoothDaddyFig hmmmm................ that is low.
Cai or Wai?
What about your plugs?
What size exhaust?
It looks like you did two dyno pulls back to back. That is low for your mods. Do a complete check of your car. Next time you go I would pay the extra and get the Air fuel ratio done. I am going to hazard a guess that you are NOT at 17 degrees advance. You have the underdrive pullies right. I watched a sentra dyno the other day with stock pullies and his car was set at what looked like 28 degrees advance. We backed it down to 17 and he lost over 20whp. Put it back to 28 and it was right back to 138. I would put a mark on your distributor and slowly advance the timing until you lose power. You don't need to go into timing mode to do this just move it the width of a penny or two each time. Of course it could be something else so keep your eyes open for other things also.
Something is definately wrong with the car on the dyno. Now on the street the car is freaking fast. CUrrently the car is not set at 19 degree timing and pulls better on the top end.
I would do as 98sr20ve suggested and adjust your timing with the car on the dyno. The first run ever on a dyno my car put down 135hp with what I thought was 17 degrees BTDC. Advancing the timing only made it worse. Only after I started to retard the timing did I find more power.... I ended up making 140hp at around 13 degrees BTDC... and, yes, I was using the UR pullies.
Also, how is your alignment? A poor alignment could be putting extra drag on the drum and hence lower your numbers.
Alingment is right since this was done a little over 2 months ago. Just ned to figure some other things out so I can get this puppy in the right number category like everyone else.
Peter, like I believe I told you it was your ecu. Sounds like maybe a bad ground still. The consult was cutting in and out and after resetting the ecu connector it was better but still was cutting in and out a bit. My guess is your techtom isn't cutting out anymore either?
The techtom still cuts out. It did not cut out the entire trip home. I did how ever reset the ECU that night and now it happens more. I am going to ground the ECU and see what happens.
My next thought of is does the Vechile Speed Sensor affect my power reading too. Even though its a cable driven speedo would this affect the ECU and possibly anything else like the techtom/Consult? Any takers on this
Quote:
Originally posted by david My guess is your techtom isn't cutting out anymore either?
The speedo sensor is just that a speedo sensor. I don't see how it could affect anything. It really sounds like it is a problem in your wiring. I bet if you reset that connector again the techtom will read ok. Was the car faster on the drive home as well. Also did your issues start around the time that you moved the battery?