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Wright now i have all motor b14 auto with jwt s4 and stillen cam gears, i just wonder if anyone has any experience with same
setup interms of tunning the cam gears for all motor and turbo setup
I didn't see if you have a slushbox or a row-your-own, but if you have an automatic and are going all-motor, advance both cams 2-5* to improve bottom-end (though the top end won't be quite so wicked as it was). If you're going all-motor, and have a manual transmission, leave the cams straight-up, as JWT intended.
If you have a turbo, advance the exhaust 2-5* and retard the intake cam 2-5*. This may be a little too aggressive, start at 2* for each, and you'll be in much better shape for a turbo. The goal is to reduce if not eliminate overlap, but that's a turbo-specific problem.
More details, please.
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"I can tell you all day long that my dick is 25% stiffer than yours, but without 'hard' numbers or independent testing, who's going to know?"
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Thanks you are the best
sr20dev is doing up my piping for incon turbo
Quote:
Originally posted by CowboyDren I didn't see if you have a slushbox or a row-your-own, but if you have an automatic and are going all-motor, advance both cams 2-5* to improve bottom-end (though the top end won't be quite so wicked as it was). If you're going all-motor, and have a manual transmission, leave the cams straight-up, as JWT intended.
If you have a turbo, advance the exhaust 2-5* and retard the intake cam 2-5*. This may be a little too aggressive, start at 2* for each, and you'll be in much better shape for a turbo. The goal is to reduce if not eliminate overlap, but that's a turbo-specific problem.
i just had a run in with 97se altima 5 spd and i took him
fully stock
probably 2 car lenght
so i'm pretty shure when i raced auto one i had sh*t ass launch, or my sluch box did not feel like racing
Plus i change my sparkplugs, they where all black looked scary
Originally posted by Ericdd What would you do for a 91 intake cam (manual) and stillen cam gears. I want to try this probably next year.
Uncharted territory, AFAIK. The same rules apply, though. Advancing both improves bottom end at the expense of neck-snap near redline, retarding both improves top-end but makes stop'n'go traffic a living hell, turbos need to get rid of overlap. There's only one way to know for sure, and it typically costs $100-150 per hour.
Originally posted by ITR_KILLR hey!, did you say INCON, i bet your the guy that JGY is building your car , My SR20DEV IC pipes should be here tomorrow.
yeah jgy is doing it
99 se-l with auto
fully build sr20de engine and fully build auto tranny
plus all bolt ons and All the other good sh*t :p
Incon as a snail lol
Honestly i cannot wait
the car will be full sleeper LOL
JGY is excited at what i'm doing to my Sentra
Here is a really good guy, honest and proffesional
will not sell you anything you do not need
Only couple people that i know who are like that