while doing a belt change i noticed my pump letting out the drip......10 sec later another drip drip.. :eek: so my question

Go with a stock water pump or with mezier electric pump?

this is going on a daily driver which occasionally visits the track.

If you put alot of miles on the car I wouldn't go with the Mezier. That's the only reason I havn't gotten one anyway.

The Meziere Pump is good to 3,000hrs. That is a lot of driving miles.
You can keep a spare belt in the trunk, cheap, spare Mez in the trunk, $$.

Exactly. Even If you drive your car 2 hours a day, every day of the year, it'd take 4 years for that pump to fail. And swapping the pump out would be easy.

That would work out to about 3 years or so for me. My SE-R's stock pump lasted almost a dozen years. I'll take the OE, thanks.

DP

With the Mezeire pump you also have to worry about overcooling, it's not really practical for a street car at all.

The water pump wouldnt matter....it can only cool as much as the thermostat will do. Doesn't matter how much you pump through the radiator, your water will only get as cool as the Thermostat you are running. Correct in theory, right?

IMO...get the OE and be done with it. It works fine for a DD, and like you said...occasional track time

Not from what I've heard. The electric pump runs at a constant rate, so the car never really warms up. It'll get so cool the thermostat will close. It'll get warm, thermostat opens, cool off, close. I would think that a person could simply use an adjustable thermostat switch to operate the pump at different speeds. So it'd run slow at first and as the temp rose, the pump would speed up. The thermostat switch would trip a relay which would supply, or deprive the pump of a full 12 volts, and the alternative voltage would be lower so the pump didn't flow as much. Such a controller would run you about $30.

You could also get a GTI-R water pump. My understanding is that it will bolt right onto the USDM DE block and it's significantly more efficient.

Not from what I've heard. The electric pump runs at a constant rate, so the car never really warms up. It'll get so cool the thermostat will close. It'll get warm, thermostat opens, cool off, close. I would think that a person could simply use an adjustable thermostat switch to operate the pump at different speeds. So it'd run slow at first and as the temp rose, the pump would speed up. The thermostat switch would trip a relay which would supply, or deprive the pump of a full 12 volts, and the alternative voltage would be lower so the pump didn't flow as much. Such a controller would run you about $30.

This is true. I have severe under cooling problems with my race car. It never goes past 165°F on the track. Hence the fans never come on unless it's in the pits.
Direct from Meziere Tech Support:

The WPK510 Pump Kit will run between 9vdc to 24vdc. At 9vdc it shuts down. There is only a 10% reduction in pump speed (not less 10% flow rate) between 9 and 13.5vdc. So the variable rheostat type thermostat switch is of marginal value. If you cycle the pump on and off you run the risk of super heating water pockets either in the head or block which will not be seen by the ECU or thermostat until the total system builds sufficient heat to effect temperature change on the entire system. BAD, BAD idea.

Options with this pump:

Run the Fans in reverse polarity to push air rather than pull. You will have to be able to configure the fans thermostat settings on their on/off cylce to build heat by preventing air flow (pushing forward as the car moves forward).
This should have some negative, but largely marginal impact in the pits or in traffic (one of those things you have to try). Some DC motors do not like reverse polarity....so you need to be careful.
OR you could shroud out the radiator in portions until you get the operating temperature you need..............not a good idea for the road driver.
OR you could remove the fan shrouding and reduce the efficiency of the fans.

I will be experimenting with shrouding, if no good, then reverse polarity at this weekend's races to see how it works out.

The WPK510 Pump Kit will run between 9vdc to 24vdc. At 9vdc it shuts down. There is only a 10% reduction in pump speed (not less 10% flow rate) between 9 and 13.5vdc.

Wow, I was not aware of this. I was planning to run it off a 3 way switch, on, off, and through a resistor. I guess I'll still do it that way, but I guess some overcooling will be inevitable on the warm-up laps and in the paddock area.