I'm debating whether I should start modding my Mustang or my 200 SE-R.
And also, how much power can be had with just a turbo with these cars?

Thanks

The se-r will respond a hell of a lot more with mods then the shitty 4.6. My roomate has a 98 and unless you do the 99+ PI head swap to bolt on 50-70 HP, your just scraping up ponies. My roomate and I run flat in the 1/8 at 9.5's, below is a list of mods for both of our cars during those times, the ones marked with a * were added to mine AFTER we ran.

My 95 SE-R:

- PR CAI* (HAD adapter and filter on runs)
- HS Gen 4 Headers
- JWT ECU
- 91 Cams
- 9.2mm Wires*
- ACT Clutch/PP*
- Short Shifter
- ES Complete Engine Mounts & CA Bushings*
- B+G Springs

Marc's 98 Auto GT:

- Steeda Underdrive Pullies
- FMS 8MM Wires
- 24# Injectors
- Cobra MAF Callibrated for 24# Injectors
- 70MM Throttle Body
- 2.5" Exhaust With NO Mufflers
- Diablo Sport Computer Chip
- MAC Cold Air Intake
- Stock shitty 2.73 gears (3.73 waiting on kitchen table)

He dynoed before the Chip, wires, injectors, and MAF @ 189 HP and 255ftlbs. I have not dynoed mine, but you can see that the SE-R will respond much better to mods unless you do the head swap or of course get a Vortech and run 9PSI!! Then you can always bolt on the BB or GTI-R turbo setup and waste Cobras all day long!! He is doing the head swap in the spring and he has 3.73 gears waiting to go in.

Just my $0.02! :D

First off, your friend has an auto. Those things are slow as balls. Second, he has the crappiest gears ever offered in a sports car. With just gears alone he'd be mopping the floor with you. Your friend also picked poor mods for a stock car.

I'll admit the heads on the 96-98 GT's suck, but how can you possibly say the 4.6 is shitty and responds horribly to mods when you said yourself that with a headswap you can make NA power you could only dream of.

Forget it, I'll just stick with the car that in the end will give me more power.

Thanks anyway.

PS
In case you don't know, it's the Mustang

Originally posted by progresr
First off, your friend has an auto. Those things are slow as balls. Second, he has the crappiest gears ever offered in a sports car. With just gears alone he'd be mopping the floor with you. Your friend also picked poor mods for a stock car.

I'll admit the heads on the 96-98 GT's suck, but how can you possibly say the 4.6 is shitty and responds horribly to mods when you said yourself that with a headswap you can make NA power you could only dream of.

Forget it, I'll just stick with the car that in the end will give me more power.

Thanks anyway.

PS
In case you don't know, it's the Mustang

Do a little research before so quickly making up your mind - or else why did you ask in the first place? Read down thru the turbo forum - answers to HP levels are in there. 350 HP at the wheels is very doable and it is a light car. Spend 2 or 3 days reading here and at www.se-r.net. Lots to learn about the SR20. See some links in the newbie section also.

Originally posted by progresr
I'll admit the heads on the 96-98 GT's suck, but how can you possibly say the 4.6 is shitty and responds horribly to mods when you said yourself that with a headswap you can make NA power you could only dream of.



If you could read a little better you would have seen I wrote Naturally Aspirated power.

Oh and if you turbo a 4.6 with a TDC kit (http://www.turbodrivenconcepts.com/feature.html), 450 HP is easily obtainable at the wheels.

I'm sorry if I'm replying a little harsh but the first guy that posted apparently doesn't know much about mustangs to post those things.

He kinda bothered me.

Originally posted by progresr


If you could read a little better you would have seen I wrote Naturally Aspirated power.



Ok - you are in the turbo section. You asked in your first post about turbo power. You're in a Nissan SR20 forum. You can bet with those 3 things you'll get back a Nissan SR20 view point - just makes sense.

One man responded with what he knows about his SR20 and his room mates mustang. Don't expect to find too many Mustang experts here - they are on other boards. Just like I don't go to Mustang boards, and expect them to know the ins and outs of my car.

I have nothing against you or your car. You're probably a great guy in person. Earlier today, I spent about 10 minutes looking up links for you on the motor mounts which you could have checked via our search engine within minutes - but I cut you slack figuring you might not have found the search engine yet.

Personally, I've run American V8s, Harleys, foreign cars of all kinds, modified almost all of them. (I'm 46, been driving since 71). They all have their merits.

So, if you want to learn about SR20s your'e in the right place, do a little reading of old posts, then ask questions to fill in the blanks. If you want Mustang advice - a dogpile search should provide some sources.

So welcome aboard to talk SR20s, or bye bye if you need Mustang advice.

AC7880:
I apologise if I offended you and I appreciate you taking the time and posting the links for me but ProjectSE-R offended me with his bashing.

I agree that you can get some good power out of the SE-R. This is the reason why I don't know for sure yet what car I'd like to start modding.

One of the reasons I wanted to mod the SE-R is because it looks easier to work on than my 4.6. How easy are these cars to work on?

Again, thanks for your help.

Originally posted by progresr
I'm sorry if I'm replying a little harsh but the first guy that posted apparently doesn't know much about mustangs to post those things.

He kinda bothered me.

Look here, I know plenty, just was giving you an opinion, if you dont like then you can do with it what you will.

So, lets get out of NA, take a 450 HP turboed or supercharged stang and mount it next to a 450 or even 400 HP SE-R. Hmmm. 4.6 are shitty, Fords' worst move was dumping the 5 liter. Ask ANY true Ford mechanic. Why do you think there are only about half as many mods for the 4.6 as there was for the 5.0? Ford should ahve stuck to there prototype of the 6.1 liter car when they finally woke up to the consumer complaints that the LT engines were whipping on them.

You ask for opinions, I gave you one, you ask for flames, I can bring those as well. :D

No one was bashing, just giving you what you asked for....an opinion. Isn't that what a forum is? If I bothered you then dont ask for opinions. By the way, 3.73 gears will not make him mop the floor with me. I am sure you know they give no power additive, they simply move the power band, in the 3.73's case, closer to low to mid range. He could drop in a 4.10 but why top out at 120-125 with the engine running at almost redline????

My car has a 7800 redline and no top end limiter. SE-R's are more fun to mod and respond VERY well to a turbo or NOS. One of my good friends, who is also a moderator on this forum, is running a directport system which is insane!

You say my roomate has shitting mods, tell me how? He has basically everything to bolt on without opening up the engine. So tell me Mustang king, how are those mods listed, which infact were listed by Jack Rousch as the top primary mods of the 4.6, are shitty?

Lets here it.

First than anything on an auto I'd get a shift kit for firmer upshifts, then I'd get a chip programmed to change the shift points, gears, and exhaust.

That alone should be enough to kill your SE-R.

He wasted his money with these mods on a car without major power:
X- FMS 8MM Wires
X- 24# Injectors
X- Cobra MAF Callibrated for 24# Injectors
X- 70MM Throttle Body
X- 2.5" Exhaust With NO Mufflers (He actually might have lost power due to less back pressure on his stock car)

By the way, I have blown the doors off every SE-R I have ever raced in my shitty 4.6 Mustang.

Originally posted by progresr
First than anything on an auto I'd get a shift kit for firmer upshifts, then I'd get a chip programmed to change the shift points, gears, and exhaust.

That alone should be enough to kill your SE-R.

He wasted his money with these mods on a car without major power:
X- FMS 8MM Wires
X- 24# Injectors
X- Cobra MAF Callibrated for 24# Injectors
X- 70MM Throttle Body
X- 2.5" Exhaust With NO Mufflers (He actually might have lost power due to less back pressure on his stock car)

By the way, I have blown the doors off every SE-R I have ever raced in my shitty 4.6 Mustang.

Alright, this is to the little geek that has a bad attitude to people who were trying to help him in the first place! First off, all he was telling you was that the 200sx is way cheaper and easier to build up horses in. Secondly, don't be knocking my mods because you obviously don't know crap about mustangs or cars in general. The automatic with the AOD in a 96-98 is better than a stick. Pick up a mustang and fast ford mag and they'll tell you. And with my "crappy mods, gears, and auto. " I can eat or hang with sticks all day long unless they are turbocharged, have NOS or have a super charger. Again I say you are an idiot, thanks for playing....BU BYE

Originally posted by progresr
First than anything on an auto I'd get a shift kit for firmer upshifts, then I'd get a chip programmed to change the shift points, gears, and exhaust.

That alone should be enough to kill your SE-R.

He wasted his money with these mods on a car without major power:
X- FMS 8MM Wires
X- 24# Injectors
X- Cobra MAF Callibrated for 24# Injectors
X- 70MM Throttle Body
X- 2.5" Exhaust With NO Mufflers (He actually might have lost power due to less back pressure on his stock car)

By the way, I have blown the doors off every SE-R I have ever raced in my shitty 4.6 Mustang.

First of all, there are 6 cats on the 96-98 mustang, know your own car before talking. Second the engine light would come on if there was not enough back pressure, this comes from ProjectStallions uncle who is an ASE certified Ford technician.

Hmmm, well, tell me what BOLT-ONS you would do without shelling out 2500 for the head swap or 2000+ for a supercharger/turbo setup? Tell me, I would love to hear it. For 7-900 you can turbo the se-r and another 500 can get you a 7800 redline with no speedlimiter and the blue bird program. So again I say, why not go with the cheaper one that responds better to mods?

Get a chip programmed for exhaust huh? Hows that? Color change? :rolleyes:

Progresr;

With a JDM turbo setup (two models, T25 and T28, cheap and plenty here in the states), 370cc or bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, reprogrammed ecu, a nice 2.5" or 3" exhaust, a SR20 can hit anywhere from 230 to 280hp on the stock MAF. In a 2600-2700 pound car, that's good for 13s, maybe 12s, in the 1/4 mile. Cost? Varies from around $1000 (cheap no frills route) or $3500+ (nice shiny bits).

Upgrade the injectors and MAF, and maybe up to a T3/T04e turbo, and you can hit insane power levels on a stock SR20 bottom end. Pushing 500 whp, at the moment.

Nitrous? Upgrade the fuel pump, put a direct-port setup on, get a 2.5 inch exhaust, plug in 100hp jets, and run 13-flat, high-12s, no problem. Stock bottom end and all. There are some guys running 140-150hp shots of nitrous, deep in the 11s, as well, on a stock bottom end. Cost? $1000-1500.

<Edit>To answer the title question, How much power will a stock SR20 take before it blows up? Well, you can pop a SR20 at 140hp if you don't know what you're doing. Or, you can live a long time at 300+ hp in one. As mentioned before, 400+ hp isn't out of the question on a stock bottom end. And, it's livable. Quite a few guys here have done just that. </Edit>

There's an answer to your question.

Everybody just needs to chill.

SERprise In WV:
Thanks for the reply. 500 HP is amazing on a stock bottom end. How long would this motor last at those power levels?

This car http://www.se-r.net/car_info/project_cars/searl_tate/index.html has been turboed for years and can make 400hp as you can see. This is Ryan's daily driver and he doesn't drive it like a grandpa as he has told me. I know little to nothing about the Ford motors, but the LS1 GM motor, as I've recently read on LS1.com, needs to be built up in order to take more that 6-7psi of boost if I remeber right. 24psi without doing ANYTHING to the top or bottom end is possible with the SR20. I find that amazing that you can quadruple this engine's power without internal engine work.

Damn guys.

Do you want neck snapping torque? Or do you want high revving power? Personally, most of us think you should and would mod the SE-R ourselves. But this is an SE-R board, so you'd have to expect some Mustang bashing.

err, Jay Hassinger still holds the stock-bottom-end record (i believe) at 409 horsepower at the wheels. This was on a stage 3 T3/T04E turbo with the .82 ex. housing, ballbearing center section, water injection, and race gas. This car was sold to Ron Acevedo who would drive it around on the street at 24 pounds w/c16 (i believe the 409 pull was at a slightly lower boost level) . The car is very reliable, but of course, its not driven at that power level every day.

Shaggy's car is probably the most powerful street car right now. His best dyno to date is 497 at the wheels. This is done on a GTi-R motor with a stage 5 t3/t04E, open exhaust, race gas, 30 psi, and NO water injection. This is a daily-driven street car that gets flogged hard. He has been breaking transmissions, as do some of the other high-power cars, but Shaggy's driving style is especially abusive.

Ben Benavides' then-11-second car was street-driven, but i don't remember specific dyno numbers; i suspect they were upper 400's ..

The tranny is definitely the weak link in our cars (well, 3rd gear), but it seems like a hit-and-miss affair. Some people have gone a long time with powerful turbo cars without breaking a single one, then there's some who do so very frequently (shaggy's on #7 or 8 now) Its not a problem that has been traced back to one specific root cause (misshifts, wheelhop, harsh clutch, powershifting, etc..) so its hard to say exactly why it happens.

be sure you take weight differences into account also when you decide what car you want to build up... :)

Andris
turbo roadrace car coming soon.

3rd gear sucks. I know someone who broke it twice in his 98 SE within a year.

I will try to determine how much a stock SR20 bottom end can take until my built motor is ready to go. I upgraded my turbo to a Stage 5 along with the 72lb injectors. I am switching to an air to water intercooler. I will also utilize an equal length turbo manifold all on the stock engine. When it goes it goes. I'll have a built engine waiting in the wings. I would like to try to hit 450-475whp on the stock bottom end with proper fuel and timing management provided by Jim Wolf.

A couple of my best friends owns Mustangs. One has a '91 with TFS heads, unequal length headers, 36lb injectors, Paxton Mass Air Flow sensor 3.55 gears and a whole bunch of other stuff. For the amount of money he invested into his car vesus how much I invested, I've got him beat by thousands! Just give the SE-R a DEEPER look. Hell, I've wanted a Mustang before I bought my first SE-R. It just made more sense to me to buy this platform. PM me if you have more questions. I know a bit about the Mustang platform. Keep your friends close, but your enemies closer;)