I know there has been some people that have ran just straight exhaust,with no muffler right in front of the rear tire. But I still want to be able to keep the nice quiet stock muffler too. So I was thinking about using a cut out. Either buying the electric one, or getting the manual one. Has anyone ever done this before? Or has anyone seen it done??

This is the manual one
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mrg-5424.jpg

And this is the electric one, the only thing about this one is its kinda bulky?
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/dmh-20025-1.jpg

be a man, just cut the exhuast and do a sideexit.

^^^ LOL
i got the Qtec e-cutout, and i love it. absolutely love it.

only problem is placement of it, cause i put mine where the test pipe is and i have too avoid speed bumps at any cost. but i just need to raise the coilovers a bit and i can get around a few. it all depends on how low the car is, and i like mine low

only problem is placement of it, cause i put mine where the test pipe is and i have too avoid speed bumps at any cost.


is there anyway to hide it more up under the car? because my car is pretty low too :D

EDIT: Where did you find yours at and how much was it? Thanks

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/ is the one i have
i also found this one that the Honda boys use
http://www.dmhperformance.com/ecutout.htm

This seems very interesting!

Im deffiently getting one after I watched the videos on that 2nd like u posted! thanks for the help! :biggthump

my next question is, has anyone ever ran like 2.5" piping to a stock muffler???

Im deffiently getting one after I watched the videos on that 2nd like u posted! thanks for the help! :biggthump

my next question is, has anyone ever ran like 2.5" piping to a stock muffler???

yea, i had the courtesy catback bolted to a stock muffler, very sleeper very quiet.

if i was to do a cutout and exhaust all over again, id probly go with 2.5 piping for more clearance and to keep things quieter when the cutout is closed

I'd do a couple dyno runs open and a couple closed. Overlap the charts to see where it helps and where it doesn't. Then use an MSD rpm switch to activate the cutout at the right time. When you're spending $200-$300 on a cutout, you'd might as well have it only open when it's beneficial. I plan to make my own out of a throttle body and a solenoid. To hell with paying that kind of money for one. You could operate the manual one with a solenoid or actuator as well, however, I'd get the thing coated so it won't rust, and replace the lever and block off plate with stainless steel.

^^ that's a good one!
I was thinking about putting a cut out and a boost controller on the same switch. Up the boost and open the cut out at the same time.
A cutout is a good option over what could be confused for a ricey exhaust

^^^ that is a good idea, they are really expensive. but what the hell, im buying one :D

I'm planning on making a servo actuated one. I wonder if these cutouts leak. We'll see.

Here's another option for you turbo guys:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-ACS-010&Category_Code=BCS

I have a 3in cutout on my se-r, that is right before the rear suspension. I have the gen 6 header, 3in cat, 3in piping to the cutout and then it necks down to 2.25in into the 2k max muffler. Even though my car is NA with S3s there is a big difference in power with the cutout open vs closed. The first run is closed and the last 2 are open. I had a couple of electric openers but I broke them all on speed bumps so now I just use a cap with wing nuts lol.
http://www.sr20forum.com/img/data/500/medium/dynopacksgp1.jpg

<<<----------Uses a Qtec on my test pipe and have had no leaking problems or issues with speed bumps and my car is low. You need to bang the underside of the car a little to make groove for it to sit in, have your welder do this and you will be ok.

PS: Qtec is $190 not $300.

Here's another option for you turbo guys:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-ACS-010&Category_Code=BCS


Damn...nice find :biggthump I may have an extra part to order after the sr20de swap and turbo goodies :D

edited

^^^^^^^Yes I will, when it sent me the update in my e-mail for this thread I saw your original message :)

Maybe I shouldn't have had the smiley, this is more suited for your original post :confused:

I have a 3in cutout on my se-r, that is right before the rear suspension. I have the gen 6 header, 3in cat, 3in piping to the cutout and then it necks down to 2.25in into the 2k max muffler. Even though my car is NA with S3s there is a big difference in power with the cutout open vs closed. The first run is closed and the last 2 are open. I had a couple of electric openers but I broke them all on speed bumps so now I just use a cap with wing nuts lol.
http://www.sr20forum.com/img/data/500/medium/dynopacksgp1.jpg

See, in your case, you'd set the RPM switch to open the cutout at 6K rpm. I wonder if you'd placed it at the downpipe what it would have done.

Why would you bottleneck your 3" exhaust into a 2.25" muffler? I've always thought that if you're going to change exhaust sizes that you'd want the smaller size at your header and downpipe and then step up to larger.