Hey gang:

I have the BB turbo setup, S4 cams, 370cc's and front mounted BB intercooler on my DE block. People, with DET's and Turboed DE's, have told me that their vacuum reading at idle was at 18. Andreas told me that it should be between 16-20. Mine consistently reads at 12. A good mechanic friend of mine told me today that when you build a motor with cams that have a bigger duration and lift that it lowers the vacuum reading. Is this true with our cars? I checked throughout the car while it was running, push start, today and fixed my one vacuum leak and replaced 2- 3/16" "T"s with 1/4 inch "T"s. The hoses were hard as hell to get on, so I know it is air tight.

I also drove it AFTER replacing the leaky T's and finding the vacuum leak and I still have the situation where if I get on it and it hits 5000 rpm, it acts like I hit a wall or I lifted my foot off the gas. It never runs right until I pop it in neutral and let the rpm's come down to idle, then put it back in gear. Please help, I am beginning to think Turbo was a bad idea. Thanks gang! :D

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11134

There's a lot of good info in that post, John. Read it. Then read it again.

Turbo's not a bad idea. Just going to take some time to sort it out is all. You threw a LOT of parts at that car. Give it time.

Thanks Greg, thats an eye opener. Guess after I figure this damn ignition system out so I can start the car, then I will go over the vacuum lines with a fine tooth comb. The mickey-moused intake piping with bolts as plugs probably doesnt help it either! ;)

Did you regap your plugs yet? also, check the rest of your ignition, make sure your plugs are in good shape, wires, coil, dist cap etc. when it hits 5K is it very consistent? as in exactly 5K everytime? is it like a brick wall or is it kind of gentle? do you get a poof of black smoke out of the tailpipe?

Originally posted by HotshtSR20
Did you regap your plugs yet? also, check the rest of your ignition, make sure your plugs are in good shape, wires, coil, dist cap etc. when it hits 5K is it very consistent? as in exactly 5K everytime? is it like a brick wall or is it kind of gentle? do you get a poof of black smoke out of the tailpipe?

Just put the BKR6E's at .030 in yesterday and the cap and rotor are new as of sunday. Yes, it is very consistent within 100 rpms I'd say. And yes its like a brick wall, unless I pop it in neutral adn let the RPMS fall to idle, like if I try to push the gas right after I hit the wall, its like it runs on 2 or 3 cylinders, no go, no power, just slop! :mad: I think I may get the BKR7E's tomorrow as I looked at the plugs that I got from NIssan that were in before the swap and theya re Platinum 6's, same heat range. Thoughts?

wasn't there some other guy with S4s and a T25 on his DE having trouble with revving it past a certain RPM? almost the exact same problem except at 7000. maybe there is a problem with the S4 program and the DE turbo program? what are currently boosting? are you using the stock blowoff valve? maybe there is a vacuum leak that is causing you BOV to open? Good luck, i will be following the same path myself pretty soon.

I am hitting the 6.5 - 7 PSI everytime and yes, it is the stock BB BOV plumbed into the stock BB intake boot between the turbo and MAF. I checked the BOV hose connections yesterday and they seemed solid. If when we did the head swap, the timing chain accidentally skipped a tooth on the crank, would that cause the 5000 RPM power loss and the studder when it starts to enter positive boost? TIA! :D

wait! it skipped a tooth? oops! i would recommend putting the timing back to normal, ASAP. is it stuttering at idle too? i think there could be too much overlap between the intake and exhaust cams and reversion (bad, when the exhaust gasses go back into the cylinder head) or the intake charge is coming right back out of the cylinder head. i would recommend getting your cam timing back to where it should be. i think there are supposed to be 11 links between the 2 holes that are in each sprocket (1 each), so just turn the camshaft with a 1 1/16 wrench until you can match up the teeth properly. Rob Cadle or someone else here should be able to easily tell you how many links there are supposed to be between the two holes, i cannot remember accurately for the life of me right now.

also, is boost not coming on until 5K? or is it happening much sooner? straight T04s boost this late, not a T25!

11 links at TDC.



Terrin
92 SE-R

hey terrin, when is your stuff going on your car? gonna be able to throw it on before the 19th? call me if you need help dude!

I gotta smog first man. Still dont know where to go.


Terrin
92 SE-R

damn neither do i, biggie told me to call him tomorrow. i am gonna call somebody tomorrow, friend of a friend. do you think you would pass without an underhood inspection? i might be able to goto a place that will "forget" to look under the hood.

Hotshot:

Eric waterman, Eric96SER, did the cams and cam timing and he did them correctly. I still cannot frigin find why the car will not send power to the starter! Boost comes in normal, about 3200-3400 RPM. ALl the relays tested good today, even the ones you didnt think were there under the dash.

I DO THINK I found the 5000 rpm dead spot. We used the factory BB intake boot with the BOV recirculating hose connection and connected it at the MAF. In order to get it to fit in the car right we had to take out the coiled spring taht was inside for stiffness. Well, its about 3/4 collapsed right now and Ill bet ya anything that its acting like a McDonalds Milk shake sucking through a straw when I hammer the gas on it. Ill bet that fucker is just collapsing almost shut when it hits 5000 rpm. Trying to take in so much air from the S4's, turbo and the POP, the intake boot is jsut not strong enough and gives in. So I have to pop it in neutral to let the rpms fall to 8 or 900 and let some of the pressure back out so the boot will open back up where I can put it back in gear and gradually get on it with no problems.

Does this sound feasible to you turbo guys? It makes pure common sense to me and once I figure out what in the hell is causing the starter not to get power and can start it, I will be taking to my muffler guy to fab me a solid 3" intake pipe for it!! :D

My cars vacuum at idle is set at 10 pounds....it use to be 6 pounds before I put in a new 02....you have the S4 cam program I do not...thats probably why yours is 12 pounds(vacuum) My car still does do the thing where it hits a wall at about 6-7k and I'm pretty sure of the reason right now I have some home depot intake piping that involves rubber 90 degree elbows and this is causing my car to hit a wall and I've realeazed when it does this the boost goes from 6-7 pounds all the way to - 10 pounds vacuum with no engine sounds at all....which I assume is because there is no air going through the intake to make that engine sounds there is no stuttering so it can't be ignition related..I'm pretty sure this will fix my problem I turned the boost up to 10 pounds and the car is a monster the great Pressure Regulator used on compressors from homedepot with a diaphram works great holds 10 pounds to redline....also mine doesn't do what yours does all the time only when its been driving for a while or is hot...as when rubber gets hot its easier to suck in....I hope this is the end to my problems.....

92 SE-R
T25 with S4 cams
14.41@97.3
with stock clutch granny shifting and 6 pounds

I do think your idea about the 5k issue is a good one John, don't forget my idea as well. Since his aftermarket plug wires died in the turbo install process, during troubleshooting why the car wouldn't start we dumped a lot a raw fuel into the exhaust. That could have messed up and clogged up the cat. If the intake improvement doesn't fix it then drop the downpipe like I suggested and see how that goes.

It could very well be the intake too. You NEED that intake redone like you said so go ahead and try that first.

Yeah, I agree Ben, but first and foremost is getting this bitch to start!!! :mad: I swear, if its not fixed by Sunday, IM push starting this thing up to you! HAHAHAHAHA! J/K! :D

troubleshooting why the car wouldn't start we dumped a lot a raw fuel into the exhaust

HA! i did the same thing when i replaced the O-ring around an injector, and had the distributor unplugged and kept trying to start it! the thing had so much fuel in it that it kept letting out a thick, nasty black cloud for like 15 minutes of driving! i think i created a hole in the ozone just from that!

runs prefectly fine now though, so i dont think that would have caused it, and i had checked my cat to make sure it wasnt melted or anything by taking it out (i then drove it unbolted just to see how loud it was, uhh, loud) and it looked perfectly fine.

a lot of DSM guys have the same problem with the stock intake piping smashing shut under high boost. also, make sure ALL hose clamps are perfectly tight, and have a nice, even seal, i had another DSM friend have a problem with this when he got a front mount, and even when it was tightened it would leak all his boost pressure out right at 6K (i didnt even think of this earlier) and make the car backfire and bark the tires beacuse it suddenly had NO power. we spent weeks trying to troubleshoot this, including returning TWO sets of injectors, thinking they were faulty before we realized the backfire noise was actually the boost popping off (he was running 20 psi) out of a defective hose clamp. make sure all hose clamps are actually clamping on the pipe links, some hose clamps are too big for your application and bottom out on the worm screw before they sufficiently clamp the hose. check by making sure you cant pull any of the connections apart with your hands. i hope this helps at all, and good luck and happy boosting.

It just makes sense to me Hotshot.

On the other hand, I cannot find the dead circuit in my car for shit. I havent been able to start the car from the ignition since last Sunday and its frigin irritating having a turbo powered 200SX with S4 cams and I cant take it out on the weekend. Pure bullshit.

I checked ALL relays, fuses, grounds, battery juice, starter, power to and from the ignition switch, fusible links and not a damn thing makes sense. The solenoid doesnt even click, just acts like the frigin clutch isnt pushed in and yes, I tested the clutch switch and the resistance of the wires to it, just dandy!

Can the factory anti-theft systems in our cars fry and just disable the car all-together? Thats what I am left with or somewhere there is a frayed/split/cut wire! :mad:

from day 2...didnt think about it that night...we've been saying possibly the alarm. no clue what the factory alarm does, but we did set that one of yours off enough to get thouraly pissed at it. I know it scared the shit out of me once. Im still thinking its either the alarm disableing things or the battery, like i said try another new battery if you can. ive seen batteries that seem good not start a nissan.