I'm planning to do a swap this summer. I was going to go with a W11 DET but I'm not sure if I want the hassle of turbo. So I'm back to thinking about a VE. What version VE is going to give me decent power with I/H/E and proper cam switchimg?

1.6 VE - eh, not really a downgrade, but you won't get all the power you want out of it

2.0 VE - Probably your best bet

2.0 VE (20v) - Hard to find, pricy, have to modify a few things to actually get it to work.

2.0 VET - PM Andreas Miko with your bank acct #, just kidding, this would be a great motor if you can find it, but it will cost $$$$

1.6 VE - eh, not really a downgrade, but you won't get all the power you want out of it

2.0 VE - Probably your best bet

2.0 VE (20v) - Hard to find, pricy, have to modify a few things to actually get it to work.

2.0 VET - PM Andreas Miko with your bank acct #, just kidding, this would be a great motor if you can find it, but it will cost $$$$

so its basically sr16ve or sr20ve :squint:

pretty much, not a lot of decision there. Best thing to do if you are mechanically inclined would be to get an SR16VE, and then take the rods and crank from your SR20 and throw them in there. SR20 dispacement, with the SR16 cams already in there. However, this requires a full motor tear down and rebuild, which takes time if you do it alone, or costs real money if you have it done for you.

^ what he said is what i wanna do, and is ideal.

pretty much, not a lot of decision there. Best thing to do if you are mechanically inclined would be to get an SR16VE, and then take the rods and crank from your SR20 and throw them in there. SR20 dispacement, with the SR16 cams already in there. However, this requires a full motor tear down and rebuild, which takes time if you do it alone, or costs real money if you have it done for you.
Thats what I was thinking of doing, but im more than happy with what I got. Dont forget the pistons or youll have a 14:1 cpr :eek2:

Thats what I was thinking of doing, but im more than happy with what I got. Dont forget the pistons or youll have a 14:1 cpr :eek2:


just fill up with race gas all the time youll be fine

pretty much, not a lot of decision there. Best thing to do if you are mechanically inclined would be to get an SR16VE, and then take the rods and crank from your SR20 and throw them in there. SR20 dispacement, with the SR16 cams already in there. However, this requires a full motor tear down and rebuild, which takes time if you do it alone, or costs real money if you have it done for you.


If you have both blocks, and are going to move that much of the bottom end, why wouldnt you just put the sr16 head on the sr20block? Seems alot simpler to me.

But can I get DET power from an NA VE with bolt ons?

220whp-ish with boltons sr20ve with stock bottom end.

If I can truly get that kind of power out of a VE with bolt ons then it's VE all the way. What VE were you thinking of Exxd when you say that? I've always thought I'd get a 20V. Serban, what are the issues with the 20V swap?

If I can truly get that kind of power out of a VE with bolt ons then it's VE all the way.

thats my thoughts. my goal is for 230whp when the jwt cams come out. of coarse with all the bolt ons.

pretty much, not a lot of decision there. Best thing to do if you are mechanically inclined would be to get an SR16VE, and then take the rods and crank from your SR20 and throw them in there. SR20 dispacement, with the SR16 cams already in there. However, this requires a full motor tear down and rebuild, which takes time if you do it alone, or costs real money if you have it done for you.

why not jsut get a sr20ve and put the sr16 cams in it? sounds like a hell of a lot less work not to mention cost about a grand less.
or are there advandages to the stroked sr16s?

But can I get DET power from an NA VE with bolt ons?

You might get that horsepower number, but you will never get that DET feel. A DET will make a lot more torque than a VE will. The VE's have a more progressive power band, whereas the DET's just starts putting a lot of strain on your neck muscles as the boost builds :rofl:

You might get that horsepower number, but you will never get that DET feel. A DET will make a lot more torque than a VE will. The VE's have a more progressive power band, whereas the DET's just starts putting a lot of strain on your neck muscles as the boost builds :rofl:
oh hush, youre just jealous i remember clear as day you saying you wanted a VE heheheh WHERE ARE MY MOUNTS?! :rofl:

Serban, what are the issues with the 20V swap?

First of all, a 20V will be around $3000 right off the bat, and not easy to find. I can probably count the number of 20V motors in the US on one hand.

The motor is throttle by wire, and comes with a big TB. A standard DE one will not fit. The N1 tb might fit, but again, more money.

If you don't mind spending the extra money, I say go for it. Its a good platform to start on. :biggthump

If I can truly get that kind of power out of a VE with bolt ons then it's VE all the way. What VE were you thinking of Exxd when you say that? I've always thought I'd get a 20V. Serban, what are the issues with the 20V swap?

It has been done, If your willing to spend the money. :)

Edit: ^--- ya im an idiot and didnt read it. I pmed you lol

Man the FAQ is lacking.

I have no idea what parts need swapping from the DE to VE or what parts are the same.
What intake manifold and throttle body I'll have to use, and if I'll need to port a swapped intake to have a decent match.


Here's the tentative plan:

Regular old VE
B15 tranny
Clutch (probably ACT HDSS, don't want too much extra pedal pressure, hard on the knee.)
Homemade stainless CAI.
2.5" stainless exhaust, (probably VRS.)
Homemade electronic stainless butterfly exhaust cutout.
Stainless hi-flow cat (Cheapest, eBay?)
Stainless header (ported OBX?) I know I said I'd never buy one, but I want a stainless header.
Calum piggyback ECU.
2 rpm switches.
New main seals, tranny shaft and striking rod seals, new timing cover gasket, new water pump.
DE distributor and coil.

Man the FAQ is lacking.

I have no idea what parts need swapping from the DE to VE or what parts are the same.
What intake manifold and throttle body I'll have to use, and if I'll need to port a swapped intake to have a decent match.


Here's the tentative plan:

Regular old VE
B15 tranny
Clutch (probably ACT HDSS, don't want too much extra pedal pressure, hard on the knee.)
Homemade stainless CAI.
2.5" stainless exhaust, (probably VRS.)
Homemade electronic stainless butterfly exhaust cutout.
Stainless hi-flow cat (Cheapest, eBay?)
Stainless header (ported OBX?) I know I said I'd never buy one, but I want a stainless header.
Calum piggyback ECU.
2 rpm switches.
New main seals, tranny shaft and striking rod seals, new timing cover gasket, new water pump.
DE distributor and coil.

Sounds like a good plan. *IF* your going to get a obx header, maker sure it has a 2.5 secondary. I just swapped out my OBX with a 2' secondary pipe and I could tell the difference night and day. You can use the VE TB, I actually like high idle thing for the cold weather we get up here, also if you like cruise there is a way to get it to work on the VE TB. When are you planning on doing the swap? I might be able to help ya out, your only 7 hrs away :tongue:

But can I get DET power from an NA VE with bolt ons?
Not unless you want to spend a lot more money. But if I were you I'd go for the VE. No hassle of broken trannies or axles which is all too common amongst the FWD DET crowd.