Thanks again Jay Hassinger for the FPR primer in my "T25 with stock injectors and ECU" thread. I've been looking around at different FPRs and they don't seem as simple to tune for a 4:1 increase in fuel pressure in boost as I thought. None of them I've looked at say "do this for 2:1, 4:1. 8:1" etc. They are more complicated than that. There are other things you can do with them too like increasing fuel while still a little in vacuum, the slope of the curve while in boost, bleh. You said I need to simply do 4:1 when in boost. How do I do this? With the products I've been looking at it would take some tuning to figure out how to do it right with a fuel pressure gauge and good A/F ratio meter. Is that the way it has to be? Or am I just being a monkey and it's really not that hard after all?

As you can see no one has responded to this question I think what you are trying to do is a bad idea. Saving money is fine but this is not smart BEN.

If you want to go cheap get the BB turbo set up for $600 used, used 370cc in $250, BB comp, BB MAF with JDM o2sensor $300, BB intercooler and pipeing $400 instale thats what u could get these things for. Total cost $1550 plus you do the rest.

I would not do this but if half assing is what you guys like to do then go for it. I just feel the BB turbo is too small for High comp, thats just my opinion.

If you were to go the way you want to go then if you minus the injs and BBcomp, MAF and O2 senseor then your cost would be $1000 in parts now lets add in the shit you want to get good FPR $250, fuel guage to see what you are doing $50, MSD to control the timing about $250. total is now $1550 again as you can see you are beating a dead horse. When it is all over with you will have a setup that is only liner fuctional injs and timing control it works but what a crock of POOP.

If you love that little NX so much I would go with $1,400 for GTIR turbo setup new, 370cc inj used $250, JWT comp $550 and Nice new frount mount intercooler with pipeing for like $650. Total with some little extras $150 and you do the instale your cost $3000. Now you got a nice looking kit that will run between 13.0-13.3 all day nice and safe. As I say you will pay now or later I would pick pay a little more now.

Andreas-

Yes I know your knowledge base is huge and you know much more about me that turboing SR20s, I admit that right off.

I understand that you need to make sure you keep a proper A/F ratio throughout the rev range. Stock injectors will not push enough fuel for 7psi of boost, many have attested to this and I will take it as fact. What I understand what I need to do is increase the fuel pressure a little in boost. Jay has told me that if you simply pump up the fuel pressure at a ratio of 4:1 in positive manifold pressure I should be pretty ok. That takes care of the lean condition caused by running without an FPR or a JWT ECU/370cc injectors setup. What else do I have to worry about? I have access to a dyno with a good A/F ratio meter (granted it's 5 hours away) but I would check it with that dyno to make sure I was running a proper A/F ratio throughout the rev range, and if I am, then what's the big deal? Is there some other variable I'm not taking into consideration? If so, PLEASE tell me.

Also, is this not the way many other imports do their turbo tuning? We are blessed with JWT and their plug and play computers which I do believe are worth the price, but if I can get the job done for less money, then why not? Call me cheap, whatever, fine. If people have done this setup before and it works, why should I question it? One of our own forum members here has the B15 with a T25 setup with an FPR and drives it everyday if I'm not mistaken. I'm sure tons of other import cars do their tuning the same way as well. I need more fuel, one way to do this is with an FPR.

This is my knowledge on the subject. If it is lacking, PLEASE educate me on what I am not considering. I just can't have my mind changed by someone saying "If you are a cheap ass and want it to run like shit, do it your way" without any rhyme or reason besides "I'm Andreas Miko, I know my shit, and if you do it any other way than I do you are going to blow up your car." That's not constructive. Educate me exactly WHY I will blow up my car and I will certainly listen.

Peace

See I am not calling you cheap, all I am saying do not go this way it makes no sense. Like I said figure in the price of the FPR, your 5 hour Dyno drive, the cost it takes to run on the dyno and something like a MSD to control the timing now lets see what you got prce you came up with. All I am saying it might seem you are saving money but you are not.

Look at it this way if you do not want to get a JWT setup then what are your other options. BB comp with BB MAF and BB O2 senser Price used $300 AND USED 370 cc inj $250. Total $550. You want to get FPR total cost on that with guage $300 now what will you use to control timing lets say MSD Box $250. Now 10 hour trip to Dyno and back and cost to use dyno and time wasted.I would say easy $30 in gas $60 to use Dyno and what I added up on the top would be about $700 with time wasted.

Well I hope you understand what I am saying.

I am sorry, I guess you did explain that. I apologize. No posting first thing in the morning for Ben. :)

I realize now that quite a bit of wanting to do it the manual way is to learn more of what turboing a car is all about- regulating fuel, timing, boost, etc. I need to look in my Corky Bell book to see what he has written on this subject. I'd probably be beating a dead horse since countless others have surely experimented the same way I would be and have come up with the same conclusions I would be.

Here's the question I probably should be asking. You talked of this "cheap" setup as being only "linear function injectors." Think I just answered it. With the FPR you get linear 4:1 ratio per pound of boost. The boost and power curves are NOT linear, correct? Therefore it is like band-aiding the problem. A JWT ECU or standalone like a TECII will control your injectors in a non-linear fashion similar to the power/boost curve(s) and properly give you fuel exactly where fuel is due. Am I right?

I apologize again. I will read and re-read your post carefully before I respond next time, Andreas.

Acutally the prices are overrated. The vortech fmu used can be had for 90-110 shipped, S15 injectors on ebay right now for 150, gauge which is handy in the first place for $50. Retard box isnt necesarry but add in a used one from urbanracer for $125. Ive seen these recently, but for the $300 for what Andreas offers is clearly a better option. The ghetto setup still might be a better solution than JWt and the great technical support:rolleyes:

Originally posted by Ben98SentraSE
Andreas-

One of our own forum members here has the B15 with a T25 setup with an FPR and drives it everyday if I'm not mistaken. Peace
It's actually a T03 turbo...:)
I'm getting a JWT ECU though...because I want more power!!! MORE!!!MORE!!!!:) The injectors are maxed out and I'm running a 10:1 plate in the FMU. I'm shooting for about 300whp, so I'm going with the 3 bar program, 50lb MSD top feeds, Cobra MAF, and I've already got the 255lph in tank pump. One problem with the setup I have is that the pump can only spike so much rail pressure. So, even if I put a bigger plate in the FMU, the pump will only spike to 80psi. After that, the fuel pressure drops off like an egg. So, here we go again...$$$$..:( I would be interested in selling my FMU, and Boost retard box if you are interested. As long as you're going to stay low boost(under 8psi), you'll be fine.
Peace
Travis

Hehe that might be cool. :) Already tuned, plug and play setup! :) I would still dyno it to see what's up and get a fuel pressure gauge, but that would rock Travis! :) Let me know