I've got the compressor housing off and am now trying to loosen the bolt on the end of the compressor wheel am an a little worried. I've got a 12-sided 8mm ratcheting wrench on the compressor nut and a 6-sided 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet on the turbine nut/bolt thingy. Using some force it feels like the turbine side is moving a little and I'm scared to give more force- scared that it may have reverse threads or something else is amiss. Help?

PB blaster that bitch a bit maybe?

All i know is those snap rings are a royal PITA after they get good and siezed in their houseings :D

I belive My T25 had reverse Threads on the shaft

so spinning motion would not loosen the nut.

Be sure to mark the housing against the shaft when you loosen the nut the wheel will rotate. this is for keeping it balanced for reinstallation.

The HOUSING against the shaft? I marked the compressor wheel against the, well, end nut I guess. :( :rolleyes: Doesn't the shaft rotate though? I would think you would need to mark the WHEEL against the SHAFT, no?

yes the wheel against the shaft

Don't worry to much about the turbine wheel its part of the shaft.

The compressor wheel is just slipped on and can rotate, its tight but it can still move. try to keep the Compressor wheel from moving if at all possible. use a marker or somthing to keep it lined up with the tip of the shaft. if you use a marker make usure its thin pointed so you dont just cover the whole shaft tip.

How did you like the Huge snap ring :)

Also if you take off the turbine housing its kind of pressed in.
it comes off but it takes some force and you want to be carefull about rubbing the housing against the fins of the Turbine.

Im guessing you doing a self rebuild

once you get the compressor wheel off and the turbine housing off you will have to push the shaft out. once out you will have another snap ring (much smaller) to remove so you can get the water cover off. underneath it is the thrush bearing and the bearing is removed with a small star adaptor. once thats off one of the bearings comes out. after the 1st bearing there is a small snap ring that holds the bearing in place. once both are out ther is a nother bearing on the turbine side thats held in by another small snap ring. this snap ring is a bitch to get off and a bitch to get back in place. the final bearing comes out once the snap ring is remove. all the internals come out from the compressor side.

Best of luck.

Yikes! You are scaring me now!! :)

I guess if I can do a head swap, turbo install, and block drill and tap in one weekend then I can handle a slow, watchful T25 rebuild. Right?:( :confused: :D

http://www.nstmarketing.com.au/300zx/images/T25_DIAGRAM.jpg

there you go

i think I left out #3 Snap ring

if you wanted you could pull off #21 but I wouldn't if i where you its pressed on and now that its full of cabon it will not come off pretty. so you should leave it on and take everything out the compressor side. alos the last #3 snap ring & #4 can stay in there. if you go this way.

oh and looking at this the #18 snap ring is not there on a BB T-25.

Cool man! Thanks!!! :)

Do you think it would be possible to get names for all those parts there? You have something you can post with the correlated names?

ummm no.

thats just off some website.

I dont have a parts list but that would be good to have.

screw the small turbo go big :) thats what I did.

Sorry man,

Mark the nut on the compressor wheel, too!

You have to align the wheel, shaft, and nut to the same orientation after you put it back together.

Notice that spot on the nut where it's been ground? That's the assembly balance cut. Having the wrong orientation on the nut when you tighten it back down means your balance is wrong.

Of course, no matter how well you mark it, your assembly balance is almost certainly not going to be within factory spec when you put the turbo back together. It will probably just be out enough to cause increased turbo noise and a little higher bearing wear. If you are unlucky, it will leak oil and develop a rub.

Rob

Rob,

I couln't find any grinding on my Nut, no pun intended :)

The compressor wheel and the turbine had some grinding done for balancing but I could not find anywhere on the nut.

Also do you know what Ft./Lbs. the Nut is supposed to be at?

I know exactly what Rob is speaking of and have seen both grinds- on the nut and the end of the wheel.

Let me ask you this Rob: what would you do with an $85 T25 that you have been told needs a rebuild? There is some shaft play (don't know what degree of "bad" this play is, but it's a tinch more than I've felt on any other T25). Is there some way it can be tested to see how bad off it really is? The cost to rebuild it seems to be more than the price of another good used T25 on top of the $85. What would you do if you were me?

Rob? REEELY would like you response to my question if you could... (grovelling) :D