1. Is there any real benefit from 360 bearing vs. 270 thrust bearing on a turbo? Is the 360 help spool quicker or is it simply a reliabilty factor?


2. Has anyone checked the difference (dyno-wise or temp-wise) between Mild Steel and Aluminum IC piping (exclude weight savings)? Is it cost-effective?

Please discuss.....

1. I wouldn't think the 360* thrust bearings will help spool at all. I figure it's just a reliability factor.

2. Supposidly, aluminum will dissipate heat faster, obviously. Now whether it will benefit you on the dyno, I highly doubt it. If you save any weight, I wouldn't think it'd be any more than 3-4 lbs, if that. I personally wouldn't spend my money on aluminum, but others may beg the differ.

Corey

aluminum is hella better than mild steel. my current setup is aluminum and I'd get it again in a heartbeat, hell, i might get it for my se-r :)

The thing I like about aluminum IC pipes is the fact that you avoid corrosion inside the pipes. My pipes are still made of steel....but...for that fact alone (especially on a street car) aluminum is getting more attractive every day.

Not sure if there's really any dyno HP to be made with aluminum. The differences would have to be very small, IMHO. Air doesn't care how it gets to the TB.

My new IC pipes are about 3' total length. They will be all aluminum eventually.

Air doesn't care how it gets to the TB.
But the engine cares how cool/hot the air comes in :biggthump

think of it this way...if your doin 60 mph with alumnum its going to cool the pipes and act more of an "intercooler" than steel will at the same temps. whether its a huge difference or not, doesnt matter, im sure it will help SOME.

cliffs notes: Pipes cooler = intake charge cooler.

But...just how 'cool' can cool be under the hood of a compact car with very little room in the engine bay?

Worth the price difference for aluminum? I dunno'.

The only true way to know is to hook up IC inlet and outlet temperature probes in both aluminum and steel pipes and compare. Too much work.

But...just how 'cool' can cool be under the hood of a compact car with very little room in the engine bay?
...and that sir...is the question in question :tongue:

well I was quoted a price difference of a whopping $50 in going from steel to aluminum, so it isn't that much more.

With you living around salt air, I'd go for the aluminum for the corrosion factor someone mentioned above... don't want the inside of your engine getting sand-blasted from little rust flakes.

well I was quoted a price difference of a whopping $50 in going from steel to aluminum, so it isn't that much more.
:confused:
Aluminum U-bends cost 2x the price of Mild Steel U-bends

I actually found some aluminum bends on ebay.. There is a kit on this site that is 160 for an intercooler pipe kit and its made out of steel. i paid 130 shipped for my aluminum pipes. Just an Idea....

360 bearing offers greater performance/protection at higher thrust loads and or when larger comp wheels are matched with smaller turbine wheels aka larger mismatch.

aluminum has a greater thermal conductivity than mild or stainless steel. based on the fact that hot flows to cold...if your IATs with the charge pipes are greater than your engine bay temps, the al pipes will rid heat from your intake charge more efficiently than the steel ones. the reverse is also true though. aluminum is also lighter and fabricates nicer parts imo :D

But...just how 'cool' can cool be under the hood of a compact car with very little room in the engine bay?

Worth the price difference for aluminum? I dunno'.

The only true way to know is to hook up IC inlet and outlet temperature probes in both aluminum and steel pipes and compare. Too much work.


if you felt the pipes on my QG setup after a long highway drive vs steel pipes, you'd know the different :biggthump