Well, I'm at a crossroads with my 240SX. The engine and drivetrain are sorted to the point where I made a 1200-mile round trip last week with the A/C running full blast and it didn't even hiccup. It's got all new stock brakes, and I even installed a helical diff just before the trip which has thus far behaved beautifully.

I have been gearing up/saving for bodywork and paint, hopefully to take place mid-winter; since finding out that the 2006 convention would actually be within driving distance for me that's been my "must-finish-by" date.

I'm estimating $1200-$1400 for the paint job. There is rust on the rear fenders, on the driver's door, and the passenger rocker panel. None is insurmountable. I'm basing my price-guess partly on an estimate by my body shop to prep the car for paint (when I was considering going the Krylon route) at $750, to repair all the rust, deal with the few very small dings, and sand the whole car.

Here's the problem: I've been paying so much attention to the engine/driveline, cooling, and other issues, that I've overlooked some things. The master cylinder leaked sometime in the past (I'm pretty sure it's not leaking now) and there is rust where the driver's strut tower meets the frame rail; strangely it's not further back eating the frame rail under the car like on most S13s, but there's a quarter-sized hole spaced such that you can see through from the wheel-well into the engine bay. We're talking clear daylight here, and the edges of the hole are very flaky.

I fear that fixing this rust (which as far as I can tell would mean removing the M/C, booster, lines, and all the crap on the frame rail, possibly even turbo/manifold, not to mention the suspension etc on the other side) would cost me $400-$500 or even more. This estimate is based on what I paid to have some rust repaired on the strut towers.

At this point I'm near $2000, with no guarantee that the rust will stay away even if I don't get caught in the rain. For that (or less) I'm willing to bet I could get a cleaner chassis and swap all my good bits into it. Paint would wait until later...

So, what would you guys do? I'm really at a loss. I don't feel the emotional connection to this chassis the way I did with my B13; rather, I'm attached to the work I've done and the parts I've installed myself, ALL of which can be removed and transferred. I'm trying to be objective and while part of me wants to see this car through to the bloody end, I'm forced to realize that it may actually be less expensive (which is good) to to a chassis swap.

All opinions gratefully received. Please vote in the poll, and state your reasoning below.

TIA!

id say get a new rust free car and swap all your goodies in. get a cheap respray and call it a day. good luck.

stratton.

My b13 is from the north just like your car. It hurts to see the rust that has built up. I've decided i'm not gonna spend any money on it. I"m gonna sand it and paint it on my own and see what happens. I've kind of accepted the fact that its gonna rust away on me. Therefore when the time comes I'm gonna go looking for a car in the southwest or florida. Se-R if i can find one if not parts transfer to a base model.

Good luck man. I voted get rid of it because RUST SUCKS!!!!.

Why not splash some naval jelly on it and hose it down, see how it looks at least. If it's too bad you can start searching for a clean southern or desert body, maybe you'll be able to find one in the next 4-6 months - even though with the popularity of the 240s they are harder to find these days.

Get a new 240.

rust ownz joo

I would say start looking for a chassis, and if you cant find a rust free one, go the bodywork route.

More opinions! I'm really curious what you guys think.

You have to much invested in this car to let it go to waste becasue of a rusty car. I would go with a cleaner shell. Maybe one that you do not have to paint. Even if it cost you a little more at first. I would also search for a southern car. I can keep a eye out for you if you would like. You already have the knowledge to build another car. There will be very few imperfections on another car.

If the shell means nothing to you, swap the stuff. I've been here before, both my NX's did/are rusting. My T-top I swapped the stuff over to a clean SE-R, my hardtop (that I'm really attached to) is being fixed.

More opinions! I'm really curious what you guys think.

I already told you what I think...What more can you need. :rolleyes:






;)

Seriously, in my experiance at the prices you mentioned I don't think they are going to fix the rust right. Ask them exactly what they are goint to do. You have to be very agressive to get the rust to not come back. Are you that confident that it would be rust free 3 years from now? Thats the real question to me.

Those aren't real estimates (except for the paint-prep number; that shop did a primo job on the strut towers). They're my own guesses, based on the one real estimate and the one job they did for me. The real prices could easily be a lot higher, which is another reason I'm really starting to agree with the poll, that a clean chassis is the way to go...

And no, I'm not confident the rust wouldn't come back. I want the car to last, and that's a major factor here.

Rob, almost no matter what I get it'll need paint because of the Silvia front; besides, I've found a paint color I really, REALLY want and it's not factory :D

If I was in your situation I would buy a new shell, get it painted in and out, and swap all the stuff into it.

get a new shell, definately, they are pretty easy to come by, AND keep your old one and learn to do some of the prep work, welding and body work yourself :)

Find a clean shell and swap the drivetrains and suspensions. Sell the running rusting car to someone to recoup some of the costs.

The general consensus seems to be in favor of getting a cleaner shell and I totally agree. You'll forever be chasing rust spots otherwise.

If you can afford to buy a new car and don't mind swapping the parts, then you'd be very smart to do that. The problem with "fixing the rust" is that I highly doubt your body shop will do it right. They may cut out metal and replace it, but what's that get you? A bunch of seams that need to be properly prepped and painted and will likely end up rusting again later, nevermind the seams they won't be able to get to. If a big fan of embedding rusty areas with fiberglass cloth or carbon fiber cloth because it's less expensive, less time consuming and will last a lot longer. The problem will still remain that there will be areas where this solution is not simple or feasible.

I'd say when you have some time off fly out to the southwest. Set up some appointments with some sellers. Get a rental car go drive around look at i'd say between 5-10 cars. Get the one you like and drive that one back(This is if its driveable ofcourse lol). If you stop by at some of the local attractions you'll have a great time and get a better car at the same time.

You can probably throw in a junk Ka in your current car and build up your JDM!!! DORifto Skills up. If you bash it up who cares it was going to rot out anyhow.

I don't think a plane trip is in the cards, fun as that sounds; it would be a year or more away for me, and I'm still hoping to have a driveable/reliable 240 to take to convention in May.

I will definitely make every attempt to sell the old car, with engine or not. I've got the wife sold on this idea (though I'm still debating) but me having a third car (four total) isn't acceptable in her eyes, or mine for that matter...

I have to say the logic of the group is compelling, and I'm leaning towards the new car idea.

I'm curious - several people voted to fix the rust, but what's your reasoning?

I've seen what Ohio-Michigan-etcetera can do to the underside of a car, Kent. It is a rough place on cars.

I vote to get a clean chassis, too. One you can look over -top to bottom- and be satisfied does not have the same afflictions your current chassis has.

Check your PMs, Kent. :)