It seems like there a few different cam preferences. Looking on the JWT and Stillen sites, there's not too much info.

Questions:
1) What grinds/models are offered? I'm interested more in mild set ups for now, '92 NX2K. I know the stock cams are decent for that year, but they're pretty trashed in my engine.
2) Average ballpark prices?
3) Do these cam sets come with new followers/rockers?
4) Procedures I've seen online for cam replacement seem to ignore the lash adjustment, is this not usually something to bother with?

There are a ton of different cams available. For example JWT has 5 different grinds available 3 of which are pretty radical requiring their own designed valvesprings and retainers. the other 2 are just bolt in and go cams. No adjustments needed, they are plug and play. Other cams to check out are www.todaracing.com, http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/ and www.junusa.com

Lash is hydraulicly adjusted. Unless you have visibly worn rockers they do not need replacing.

Oh, and don't bother with Steallin.

Originally posted by KC1
It seems like there a few different cam preferences. Looking on the JWT and Stillen sites, there's not too much info.

Questions:
1) What grinds/models are offered? I'm interested more in mild set ups for now, '92 NX2K. I know the stock cams are decent for that year, but they're pretty trashed in my engine.
From JWT, the S3 and S4 fit your desire for 'mild' cams. They still have some loping (the S4's lope more than the S3's). Maybe you should consider a new or used set of 91 or 92 stock cams?

2) Average ballpark prices? I haven't bought cams in a while. $500-$550 I think.

3) Do these cam sets come with new followers/rockers? No. You can buy new rocker arms if you need them. Unless they are scratched or unusually worn, you shouldn't need them.

4) Procedures I've seen online for cam replacement seem to ignore the lash adjustment, is this not usually something to bother with? We don't have lash adjustment. Well, we don't have to adjust anything. The SR20 uses hydraulic (oil) pressure to autmoatically adjust.

Anyone know anything on S2's?

Originally posted by jacen99SE

From JWT, the S3 and S4 fit your desire for 'mild' cams. They still have some loping (the S4's lope more than the S3's). Maybe you should consider a new or used set of 91 or 92 stock cams?


He says he has a '92 NX, so he already has the high-port cams.

Originally posted by WhiteSER
Anyone know anything on S2's?

IIRC, those were the first generation JWT cams that Mike K. tested on his Project 200SX over 4 years ago.

As it is a '92 I do have the good stock cams, except they're toast - this was not a well-treated engine. The top end of the engine is very loud, and the cam lobe that is visible through the oil filler looks pretty bad. I haven't popped the valve cover off yet, but I'm going on the belief that things may not look pretty. Due to the wear involved, I hesitate to reuse the rockers. Plus, all my old knowledge about cams included the mantra "always replace lifters - the old wear patterns might damage the new cam". But, it sounds like it's not an issue here unless wear is bad.

New stock cams run $263 each from the dealer. Rockers run $60 each from the dealer - 2 X 4 X 60 = $480 just for rockers. For the money (or a bit less) a little extra hp might be nice... Of course, you add all that up and in you're back in JDM territory, except that is easier to swap cams than engines. This sucks.

The lash adjustment on these engines appears to acheived via a shim between the lifter and rocker (according to the FSM). The procedure seems to involve checking the lash, then doing a little math to verify the thickness shim required, then replacing the shim if necessary. Doesn't sound like it's something that's done often if at all.

So, a used set of stock cams for this application is probably the best way to go. Anybody?

You shouldn't need to mess with the shims unless they have been switched around. They aren;t really subject to wear the way they are used, and they should be well matched from the factory. You can use new rockers and not change shims. Are you sure you are looking at the SR20 page and not the GA16 page?

You might want to replace the cam oiler tubes also (get new parts here). At the least, clean them out.

I have 6 or 7 rocker arms in good condition. I already sold one to somebody on this forum that overrevved and broke one. Let me know if you want to buy any.

Yeah, my bad, looking at the GA16 page. Just got the manual (Free! Dealer said he was tired of tripping over it...), flipped it open and started reading from the wrong place! I see what you mean about the sr20 shims, looks like rare to mess with them. It would appear that they only need to be messed with if you're replacing the valve or the rocker guide. Cool!

I think the next thing for me to do is pop off the valve cover and asess things. It seems like the noise I have could anywhere from lifters with air in them to worn out parts. Good hint about the tubes, this engine had a lot of junk in it... once I see what's up I may be in touch about those rockers. Any spare cams?

Any spare cams?
HAHAHAHAHA :p

I have a spare set of cams from a 99 SR20. You don't want them.

It would be a very GOOD idea to use NEW rockers with NEW cams. The old adage about new lifters with new cams is true here as well, but since our cams ride right on the rockers, replace em and be done with it. DO NOT mess up the shims. It requires a special tool (plate with dial guage ) and is very time consuming.
We neede to do it when we replaced the valves, retainers and springs.

Hmmm how should I put this............cams don't look good???? Well when you replace the cams and rockers you might want to consider swapping the spray bars out for new ones. If they clog the lobes are history, some people may say clean them out, I say replace them. If the engine wasn't treated good there is probably sludge in the bars, just do yourself a favor.