Hey Guys,
Jomama and I just ordered some ES torque inserts for our classics. PLease tell me wheter or not that this is a BIATCH to do. I think it may be. Any tips/suggestions that may save any amount of frustation however small when I do this myself. Also I heard someone say that you need to take your mount to a shop with a press to get them in. Shed some light please! I haven't actually looked carefully at the mounts yet. wanna do this soon. I also heard that the rear mount is the actual BIATCH to do.

Tips, suggestions, snide remarks, or your offer to help welcome!

Later Folks

-Train

It's actually pretty straight forward. The front dogbone mount needs to be pressed in, but I did mine with my front wheel! I just lubed up the insert, put my front wheel back on my car, and slowly lowered my car onto the insert and it popped right in on the first try.

Thanks son of skyline,
One more question. for the rear mount how did you prepe the casing. Maybe this will be staright forward once I see the mount but I thought I'd ask now. Do you have to melt/burn out the old material or what? Thanks!

-Train

Do you have to melt/burn out the old material or what
Not for the basic torque set.

Just to make things a little easier, when you do the dogbone mount, make sure you take out that metal piece in the middle (cant think of what the hell its called, i'm totally brain dead now), it will make it easier when you try to press it in. Simply get some dish soap and put it around the mount, put one side in, get a board, and just stand on it.

The rear one should be real easy, just make sure the mount is not bent. If the inserts dont fit right in there, the mount might be bent. I had that problem when I changed mine.

Good luck

This may be some help to or others considering the ES motor mount insert upgrade.
If you don't want tons of vibration entering the cabin and shaking your steering wheel, don't use the full ES Motor Mount set. Upon the advice of Vince @ Courtesy, I used the ES inserts only for the left and right mounts (front/dogbone and back when in car). These, according to Vince, are most responsible for the front to back rocking movement we are trying to stop. I did not use ES inserts for the left and right mounts. Instead, I replaced the old worn mounts with new Nissan motor mounts. This compromise results in a "best of both worlds" solution. Engine movement and vibration are both minimized.
It's been about almost four years since completed this modification and all mounts are still running strong.

Originally posted by Ltrain
Thanks son of skyline,
One more question. for the rear mount how did you prepe the casing. Maybe this will be staright forward once I see the mount but I thought I'd ask now. Do you have to melt/burn out the old material or what? Thanks!

-Train

Well, at least on my car, the old inserts on the rear (firewall) side fell right out. No burning necessary.

Hey Aztec,
I was actually thinking that myself. That is why I only bought the torque set. Hmmm.... I guess I was right. At least that confirms my theory of using just the ES for front and back and stock for the sides. Maybe that's why Nissan calls them (insulators) for the side mount.

"Those things that make you go HMMMMMM..." :p

-Train

For that rear mount, make sure you use lots of lube. It'll make it a LOT easier to put the crossmember back on. For the front one, I actually used my car as a press ghetto style to press out the old one (not recommended). It'll be handy if you have a press.

Khiem

That vibration...
Ever since I put in the tranny mount there is double. I thought it was broken but it wasn't. Now I don't know what is wrong with my car. Maybe I just don't know how to drive! LOL

Not if you use the patented Ryan method...for instructions...please send $29.95 to the address listed.....j/k..heh
I'd recomend getting the passenger one done first, then reinstalling it...then taking the crossmember off and pressing those inserts in with a vice if you have access to them...*I* filled up the spaces ES didn't with fast curing window weld, you don't have to...put the crossemember up in there...oh yeh, and you should do the shifter bushing while the crossmember is out... I LOVE THE SHIFTER BUSHING! Okay, then you can do the drivers side mount while you have the tranny out...and a word to the whise...if you have the tranny out put the drivers side axle in there first(before you install the tranny)...and you must get it perfectly strait and use greese on the little circlip that goes into the tranny to keep it as flush as possible...hope this helps!!

~Ryan

Im dying to do mine after my WHEEL HOP experience. YIKES!!!
I need more vibrations going on. I want to feel the power and become one with my car. Hopefully by next paycheck I can sneak out $35.

Well,
I got my motor mount in. At least the dog bone. I will do the other tranny one later. The difference is definitely notcied and I like it. :) Anyways, thamks for all the advice on the inserts. But now that I have done it myself I will add one additional tip/trick. If you are having a hard time getting that insert in TRY HEATING THE URYTHENE in boling water for about a miniute or 2. It worked great for me! I practically got the insert in my hand!

-Linus

Originally posted by Ltrain
Well,
I got my motor mount in. At least the dog bone. I will do the other tranny one later. The difference is definitely notcied and I like it. :) Anyways, thamks for all the advice on the inserts. But now that I have done it myself I will add one additional tip/trick. If you are having a hard time getting that insert in TRY HEATING THE URYTHENE in boling water for about a miniute or 2. It worked great for me! I practically got the insert in my hand!

-Linus

Some more advice...start the rear mound when you put it back in first, before the front one, take the top bolt out...

~Ryan