Hello fellas, I have a RR SR20DE built like a DET etc... DET pistons/ N1 VVL oil pump etc..

Anyway, the car is on the stock computer with 380cc injectors, the car idles fine, a bit on the rich side and it is untuned running 5psi at the moment.

Its been getting a bit chilly here in South FLA.....chilly meaning low 70's high 60's, and when the temperature drops my car starts to act funny.

After the hurricane came by the temperature dropped to the low 60's high 50's and my car will NOT rev past 2.5k RPM, as soon as it hits 2.5k it bogs and it feels like its electronically haulted because it wont go not 1 cm past 2.5k, if you press the gas pedal it doesnt do anything, just stops dead. I can start building boost in like 3rd gear but as soon as it hits 2.5k it bogs out and I have to shift.

Its the weirdest thing, it does it everyonce in a while.

Yesterday on the drive home due to most traffic lights out and the sun setting earlier, the car ran fine at 5pm, on my 1 hr commute back home the sun had gone down and it got chilly (low 70's) and the car started acting funny and wouldnt stop, even if I turned it off it did the same thing, but the weirdest thing is that I was at the gym for 3 hours, when I came out and turned it on it started working fine and revving normal again even with the chilly temperature!!

Any clues?

I would look for a loose connector on the temp sensor or MAF. Its possble that the cooler weather is causing the metal to contract and the pins are not making good contact.

John

I would look for a loose connector on the temp sensor or MAF. Its possble that the cooler weather is causing the metal to contract and the pins are not making good contact.
John

Hmmm could be... I actually think my MAF wire is wire tapped from the wire being cut due to the SAFC unless Lance soldered it, ill check today. Thanks, I had completely forgotten about that John

Its not like it matters much anyway the E-manage is going on the car the following weekend, but I need a driveable car.

Yup sounds like a maf issue to me too.

Do the MAF test. Take a screw driver while the car is running hit ur MAFS if it bogs down u know its bad.

Do the MAF test. Take a screw driver while the car is running hit ur MAFS if it bogs down u know its bad.

Are you serious or is that a joke?

maf or tps maybe a fuel filter

Are you serious or is that a joke?

That is dead serious sir... If it bogs it means that your air flow sensor is reading vibrations which when ur vibrating ur driving right? Well that is what keeps it from allowing to tach past 2500.... I sware to you this works...

That is dead serious sir... If it bogs it means that your air flow sensor is reading vibrations which when ur vibrating ur driving right? Well that is what keeps it from allowing to tach past 2500.... I sware to you this works...

But rather than hitting it with a screwdriver couldn't you just move it by hand? And wouldn't the vibrations from idle and revving the car in neutral be enough to simulate the same movement?

No by tapping it it sends vibrations into it by waves... Shaking it just causes it too move up and down not causing the air vibrations..... Beleive me it works

No by tapping it it sends vibrations into it by waves... Shaking it just causes it too move up and down not causing the air vibrations..... Beleive me it works
i thought it read the air flow by how much it cools a hot wire instead of vibration???

Hmmm could be... I actually think my MAF wire is wire tapped from the wire being cut due to the SAFC unless Lance soldered it, ill check today.
Lance solders every wire he needs to tap.

........if the safc looses any part of the circuit it throws the engine limp , so I would look real close at the wires, smaller wires mean you gotta get strand'for'strand contact for the smallest voltage signals to be noticed by the ecu. AND the maf filiament is like a light bulb so if its throwing "+-=+-=+-=+-=" at the safc : it goes limp................ at least that would be my reasoning ..........keep us updated,what maf is it? ,Jason


woow I just read that back to myself,..........yea to much coffee

maf or tps maybe a fuel filter

Ill check the MAF, the TPS is fine, the fuel filter is newish (10k miles)

Lance solders every wire he needs to tap.

Lance didnt tap any wires this time around

........if the safc looses any part of the circuit it throws the engine limp , so I would look real close at the wires, smaller wires mean you gotta get strand'for'strand contact for the smallest voltage signals to be noticed by the ecu. AND the maf filiament is like a light bulb so if its throwing "+-=+-=+-=+-=" at the safc : it goes limp................ at least that would be my reasoning ..........keep us updated,what maf is it? ,Jason
woow I just read that back to myself,..........yea to much coffee

Remember guys.... stock 2002 Infiniti G20 Roller Rocker SR20 computer with 380cc injectors.

Ill tap the MAF, but it has been custom inserted into the pipe by Andreas Miko so I guess ill try banging it....
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y238/Mauig20/Maf3.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y238/Mauig20/Maf1.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y238/Mauig20/Maf2.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y147/Domiken/CIIM042.jpg

Depending on what air filter you have, i.e. k&n cotton/paper, check to see if this has gotten wet at all.

I had to ditch my ApexI filter this week, becuase the relocation to the wheel arch got it soaking with water and it basically closed up.

Was alright unitl you put the foot down, and it would overfuel to death!

Just a thought...

Dave

P.S. Never get the filter wet!!!

You did say stock ECU, and you live in So. Florida with all those hurricanes blowing that salty air around. The ECU could be failing internally also. It shouldnt really matter about the outside temp changing why the problem exists. The MAF would have the same issues at 40 degres as it would 80 degres if its truly is going bad. I recommend to check the ECU for corrosion if you havent already and look inside of it too.:D Educated guess:biggthump

first check the maf, then plugs, then fuel, then cat, if you still have one.

You did say stock ECU, and you live in So. Florida with all those hurricanes blowing that salty air around. The ECU could be failing internally also. It shouldnt really matter about the outside temp changing why the problem exists. The MAF would have the same issues at 40 degres as it would 80 degres if its truly is going bad. I recommend to check the ECU for corrosion if you havent already and look inside of it too.:D Educated guess:biggthump

stuff doesnt really corode down here like you may think, I have never seen corosion inside an ECU before, on a honda, nissan, toyota, ect.

yeah, the only time ive really seen corrosion due to salt is on boat trailers and things that go in the ocean

.....I have some ?'s about your set-up if the bay-pic is current.....nothing to do with the problem your having but .......

.......why are you venting the vc into the 'clean air'?
.......did you set a correction% in the safc for the maf?
.......why not recirculate the bov to before the maf and use that as metered air?
.......what numbers are you getting from your safc for the tps and maf ?

...............do you need an ecu? I've got 2stock b13 and 2 b13/p.o.p .......