To all those people who relocated their batteries to their trunks:

What did it do besides giving you less trunk room?:p
Was it a worthwhile upgrade?
Do you recommend it?

I was reading one of the old SCC articles that someone posted online (Figgy, maybe?) and the article said that locating the battery to the trunk actually altered teh weight distribution by 2%. Something like from 56-44 to 54-42. Also, depending if you placed it in the center of the trunk or to the right, you could make the left/right distribution (with a 150lb driver) within 5 pounds of each other.

Also, you would have more room for a CAI, or intercooler ductwork :D I wish I could say i moved my battery for that!

I haven't relocated it, but i suppose if you are just looking to tinker with your car, it could be fun!

Hhmm! Well, it gave me room to work on the engine compartment. The engine bay looks less crowded. But really, I wanted it for weight distribution. I'm not sure what the result is since I have not run my car. I'm still in the process of "tinkering."

i saw it first on a local se-r guy autocrossing in street touring. i asked him why he did it and he said it did wonders for the handling of this car. he said it really felt a lot better after he did it. i'll be doing it sooner or later, but i hear it's a pita.

I didn't think it was that difficult. I started with the Summit Battery Relocation kit that included 2AWG cable (20' red, 3' black).
I ran the Pos cable thru the driver fender, in to the passenger compartment thru one of the grommets by the drivers left foot, along the inside door sill to the rear seat and in to the trunk.
I re-used the stock metal battery tray, cut off the flanged edges, and used it to bolt thru my ghetto battery box (a used office paper file) thru the rear passenger side floor. Getting the positioning lined up just right was difficult and took a little time. This allowed me to use the stock J bolts and battery hold-down. I ran the Neg cable to a chassis mount in the trunk.

I did mine to make room for a CAI. I placed it centered, right behind the rear seats. It was a breeze. And I just hated having that 25-30lb battery in the front of the car.
Was it worth it. YES. I would recommend it.:cool:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid29/p4c105998e00cc77f63c0042a4f40852d/fdf15cfd.jpg

SmoothPappy, please tell me that the spare is bolted down somehow! From the amount of excess red cable I'm guessing this was an immediate post-install picture?

Originally posted by Racerlinn
SmoothPappy, please tell me that the spare is bolted down somehow! From the amount of excess red cable I'm guessing this was an immediate post-install picture?

LOL...............actually, the tire is not tied down. :o :eek:
And yes that was a "right after install" pic.
I STILL have to trim those wires down. I tell myself every Saturday that I will do it. I have an extra long bolt for mounting the tire. But I have to get at that too.
Hey Racerlinn, How did you get the vinyl sidng to stay so straight?
It doesnt bend at high speeds?

I think it's a combination of the rolled lip along the bottom edge and the shape of the vinyl as it curves back towards the wheel wells. It probably does bend back some at highway speeds but probably not mutch. It's pretty stiff.

If you want to see the cheap summit battery kit, go to yer local wal-mart and look in the boating section. Look for the boat battery box. Wally world has 'em priced below summit too.

Ive always stripped as much out of the back of the car for drag racing to stop weight transfer off the frount...... I suppose if it causes better balance, but the weight off the frount for drag racing must be a pain???

Originally posted by kiwi_nx-r
Ive always stripped as much out of the back of the car for drag racing to stop weight transfer off the frount...... I suppose if it causes better balance, but the weight off the frount for drag racing must be a pain???

Yea, its not a good thing for drag racing, its good for autocrossing though.

I'm looking for a place to pass the + wire through the firewall, but I can't find any. Where did you make your hole?

Using a 3/8" drill bit, I made the hole to the right of, and just above, the gas pedal. That way, my foot cannot hit the battery cable when doing quick work on the gas pedal.

: Don't forget to place a rubber grommet on BOTH sides of the firewall.

i know that its preferable to have a sealed battery like an optima, but my battery is brand new, and i dont wanna spend $100 for a new optima..... would it be unsafe to use my regular pep-boys battery in the trunk?

If it's not a sealed battery (optima), then you'll need to put the battery in a sealed battey box. It prevents the harmful acids/gases from escaping.

Something that Im planning on doing when i move my battery:

LOOK FOR A E30 (84-91) BMW 325I OR 325IS THEY ALREADY HAVE THE BATTERY IN THE BACK SO IT HAS CABLE (S) THAT RUN THE LENGTH OF THE CAR TO THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.

INSIDE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT THE BMW HAS MOUNTS THAT WILL ALLOW TO HOOK UP JUMPER CABLES. Just mount in your sr20 along the firewall or fender.
SO THIS WAY YOU DONT HAVE TO CRAWL IN BACK TO JUMP YOUR CAR OFF AND THERE IS A SAFETY ISSUE AS WELL. PLUS ITS A CHEAP AND ITS RELIABLE.

just a suggestion.

-Scott

Our batteries are in a terrible place, in front of the wheel. My battery is in the back passenger side, but not quite blocking the jack door. Up front it gave me room to rig an intake for my turbo from an intake for a 94 Probe GT. The filter is right where the battery used to be. I bought a cable from a stereo shop and ran it under the rear seat, under the center hump carpet, then under the e-brake snakes by the shifter, and under the dash. It goes through the existing rubber grommet for factory wires out the drivers side and runs inside the wheel weel and enters the engine with the factory wires. I used a long nail to poke a small hole in the grommets to fit the new wire. Potentially, this route could cause some radio interference, but I have not noticed any. The battery itself is in a boat box from Shucks, and is grounded to the rear seatbelt mount. It is easy and will be well worth it when you see the space available in the engine bay.

Originally posted by Racerlinn
I started with the Summit Battery Relocation kit that included 2AWG cable
Anyone considering this do yourself a favor and don't waste your money on the Summit Kit. Go to the local boat supply store and buy the box ($7), auto parts store for a new tray ($5) and new connectors ($3), a welding supply store for some 2G cable ($0.80/ft). Welders cable is far less expensive, much better quality and much more flexible making easier to work with. You'll save over $15 and end up with the same box and better cable than what Summit sells.

Actually the particular kit I bought did not include the Marine Battery Box, just the cable and hardware. The cable supplied is quite flexible, but Jim does make a good point. Convenience was a major factor at the time - I simply did not have the time to source the different pieces.
As for the battery box, I am using what once was a paper file box (the plastic type with a handle on top). Yes, very ghetto, but the stock battery tray with the mounting "ears" removed from the edges fit perfectly inside it so that I was able to bolt the stock tray thru the bottom of the box and thru the floor of the trunk. I was then able to use the stock hold-down "J" bolts to secure the battery. Some duct tape around the top of the file box and a piece of clear hose for an external vent, and I have a "sealed" box that works for my needs.