Well, I fear the worst. About a month ago I was driving to steak n' shake and my car started making a sound at around 3000-3500 rpm much like that of a loose heatshield (which I had just installed) so I thought nothing of it. However on my way home it got louder and louder and louder. The weird thing was, the car felt like it was fine, the AFR's stayed the same and at an idle it sounded perfectly fine.

So I got home parked it and figured out that it was coming from cylinder 1-2 (the left side of the motor just in case I have my numbers mixed up) and it's sat there ever since. I got distracted with the purchase of a new car so I haven't gotten around to it. But seeing as how I just repainted it I kinda got a little motivation to see what's wrong.

I've never torn apart a motor myself before, I've seen others do it, helped here and there but have never done it myself. Although I am mechanically capable to do it (I've done a few swaps in different cars, and do all the work myself) I think I might need some guidance here. Anyways, I'll stop rambling and get to the point.

What do you think is going on? My suspicion is rod knock, however it only happens past 3500rpm and only under load. Did I throw a bearing? If so do you think I wll be fine with just replacing the bearings since I caught it early and the power felt fine?

I know i have to just go in there and check it out, but I'd like to get at least a good idea of what I'm looking at in terms of replacing parts.

i would have to hear it to be sure, but yeah, it's rod knock. you most likely lost a rod bearing. just to be sure, does the knocking speed up as engine speed increases?

as for just r&r'ing the bearings... it all depends upon how the crankshaft journal looks. if it's all scored up, then unfortunately, it's time for either a new crank or more simply, a JDM swap.

best case all you're going to need are the following:

gasket set
main and rod bearings
thrust washers
maybe do a chain and tensioner while you're in there just for good measure.

worst case:

JDM engine... or a new crank.
and depending upon what the rod/s look like, you might need some of those as well.

good luck
-n-

Have somone hold the revs in neutral while it's knocking, and pull the plug wires one at a time. If one of them silences the sound, it's rod knock. I personally know of a car where this was the case and a replacement of the rod bearings solved the problem. This was 6 months ago and everything seems fine.

i would have to hear it to be sure, but yeah, it's rod knock. you most likely lost a rod bearing. just to be sure, does the knocking speed up as engine speed increases?
as for just r&r'ing the bearings... it all depends upon how the crankshaft journal looks. if it's all scored up, then unfortunately, it's time for either a new crank or more simply, a JDM swap.
best case all you're going to need are the following:
gasket set
main and rod bearings
thrust washers
maybe do a chain and tensioner while you're in there just for good measure.
worst case:
JDM engine... or a new crank.
and depending upon what the rod/s look like, you might need some of those as well.
good luck
-n-

this is good advice.

I personally, would just pick up a new JDM motor for 350 bucks and call it a day, much easier and much more reliable than any sort of rebuild.

i agree with will, espicially if you've never done bearings on your own.

yes, when the engine revs the knocking speeds up. So you guy's are just suggesting take all my turbo stuff and bolt it on a new longblock? So I should just try to find a used BB or Avenir block and mate it to my existing head and put on my turbo? Sorry if I'm not following correctly. I would like to try and stay away from drilling and tapping the block if possible.

you've got the rod knock. unfortunately.

either way that you are thinking would work. obviously, there are great benefits to using either an Avenir or Bluebird block - low comp. pistons, block is already tapped... but either way will work.

it will be far cheaper to use a standard JDM SR20DE... you can pick up a complete engine for well under $500... as opposed to the inflated prices that you will find for either of the DET engines.

Cool, thanks for the help! I guess I'll try to hit up Larry Low and see if he can get me another block for my car.

Welcome to my world. I'm in the process of getting the funds for a new DET longblock. Mine has teh rodknock of doom as well. Makes me a sad panda.