I stripped the block at the oil feed banjo bolt and was wondering if anybody had any success re-tapping the holes for the banjo bolt. This is on a GTIR block, i stripped it when I overtightened the bolt because of a oil leak there. Am I correct by saying I need a m12x1.25 tap to redo the block or should I just plug that hole and tee off the oil pressure sending unit like a de_t conversion. I am looking for the quickest most reliable way I need my car back on the road. Thanks in advance.

M12x1.25 is the correct size... but depending upon how badly damaged the threads are, you might need to oversize that hole and retap for use with a bigger banjo bolt.

what i can't figure out is why that banjo bolt didn't break first.

anyway, you could also run a -3AN stainless steel line from the rear of the engine, just make sure that you run a restrictor. that OEM banjo bolt is the restrictor in the original setup.

I plan on doing that I just need to find a way to plug the front of the motor so oil doesn't leak out.

you'll probably have to tap it oversized and then buy a plug to match it. make sure that you're carefull not to get a bunch of shavings into the block. also use a quality sealant on the plug that you put in there.

M12x1.25 is the correct size... but depending upon how badly damaged the threads are, you might need to oversize that hole and retap for use with a bigger banjo bolt.
what i can't figure out is why that banjo bolt didn't break first.
anyway, you could also run a -3AN stainless steel line from the rear of the engine, just make sure that you run a restrictor. that OEM banjo bolt is the restrictor in the original setup.Hole was originally X size.

Now being stripped it is X+Y size.

To fill in the gap, you will need to tap the hole to a slightly larger size.

I haven't done this on engines, but when I tried to re-tap a hole to the original size, it did NOT work:squint:

the only reason i say that is because sometimes only the first few threads are damages, and retapping will clean them up enough that you can start the bolt into the hole correctly, then once the bolt gets to the good threads, it will work. it's the obvious first step before spending more money to buy the needed parts to either step up a size (the banjo bolt, i mean) or run a whole new oil supply line from the oil filter housing.
-n-

you'll probably have to tap it oversized and then buy a plug to match it. make sure that you're carefull not to get a bunch of shavings into the block. also use a quality sealant on the plug that you put in there.
What if I tap it to m12x1.50 or 1.75 will that work?

Someone said they are suprized the banjo did not break first. That would never happen in this area because there is not that much alumnum surface area becasue of the size of the bolt and the bolt is made out of a harder material.

You do not have to worry about getting metal shavings in the oil hole as it is very deep, it runs all the way to the other side of the block but if some gets in the hole, start the motor with the oil hole open with a rag in the way and run it for just enough time so the oil presure blows out the oil. I would say about 2 seconds or so.

I would helicoil the hole or any of the newer methods they have. It will not leak because the sealing surface is not the coils but the outer part where both of the copper washers are at.

Some said they are suprized the banjo did not break first. Thats would never happen in this area becasue there is not that much alumnum surface area becasue of the size of the bolt and the bolt is made out of a harder material.
You do not have to worry about getting metal savings in the oil hole as it is very deep, it runs all the way to the other side of the block but if some gets in the hole, start the motor with the oil hole open with a rag in the way and run it for jusr enough time so the oil presure blow out the oil. I would say about 2 seconds or so.
I would say to helicoil the hole or any of the newer methods they have. It will not leak because the sealing surface is not the coils but the outer part where both of the copper wahers are at.
I will try the helicoil method as I can't find a m12x1.25 tap seems like it is very common that is why it isn't supplied in any of the sears kits.

i've seen banjo bolts break because people always over tighten them to try and stop leaks instead of replacing the copper crushwasers.

that's besides the point thou.