It appears the bearings on the endlinks that I have are starting to go.
Just a slight amount of play in a couple of them which then produces a very nice rattling sound when driving the car. Anyone face this issue already? I know its the bar as I just swapped it in to replace the ST bar I had on it (which was rattle free). Suggestions? I may just end up buying some aftermarket pieces to replace the links, but if someone has a suggestion on a better fix I'm all ears.

Get some good bearing from Aurora or similiar, then install dust boots to protect them.

Sounds like Pegasus/Averill/Racer Wholesale time to me!

Aurora's (what Pegasus sells) may be a bit of overkill (at least for my budget).
Racer Parts Wholesale sells pieces that are probably of better quality than the Progress pieces. Looks to be less than $15 for a complete set. Guess I better give Santa their web site address...

you have the URL for that website? I just installed a progress rear bar as well, and I get a constant squeak from the rear.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/

you have the URL for that website?

http://racerpartswholesale.com/

also

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/

and I think this is Averill

http://racing-stuff.com/

I just installed a progress rear bar as well, and I get a constant squeak from the rear.
Could the bar be squeaking against the poly bushings?

Could the bar be squeaking against the poly bushings?

I doubt that's the problem. When I push down on the trunk while standing next to the left rear wheel, the sound seems to come from right behind the wheel area. I'll try to find out what the problem is this weekend.

Aurora's (what Pegasus sells) may be a bit of overkill (at least for my budget).
Racer Parts Wholesale sells pieces that are probably of better quality than the Progress pieces. Looks to be less than $15 for a complete set. Guess I better give Santa their web site address...

Cheap bearings will wear out faster. Good bearings will last a long time. Aurora sells a variety of levels of bearings. I would consider calling Kevin at C+R Racing. He has gotten good bearings at a fair price when I needed metric. Helped me pick the right type to avoid noise and to last. So far they have been on my 240's rear control arms et. all. for over a year with not a peep out of them.

http://www.crracing.com/

It appears the bearings on the endlinks that I have are starting to go.
Just a slight amount of play in a couple of them which then produces a very nice rattling sound when driving the car. Anyone face this issue already? I know its the bar as I just swapped it in to replace the ST bar I had on it (which was rattle free). Suggestions? I may just end up buying some aftermarket pieces to replace the links, but if someone has a suggestion on a better fix I'm all ears.

I had this problem and I replaced them with these. Just get 2 male and 2 female ends. I forget the size but I think it's 3/8" or 1/2".
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.80/qx/Product.htm

Cheap bearings will wear out faster. Good bearings will last a long time. Aurora sells a variety of levels of bearings. I would consider calling Kevin at C+R Racing. He has gotten good bearings at a fair price when I needed metric. Helped me pick the right type to avoid noise and to last. So far they have been on my 240's rear control arms et. all. for over a year with not a peep out of them.
http://www.crracing.com/

Well, there Indy shop is only a mile from my house, maybe I'll stop by and see what they have in stock... :biggthump

Well, there Indy shop is only a mile from my house, maybe I'll stop by and see what they have in stock... :biggthump


You can't replace the bearings. You need the whole rod end.

Tim

Yep, I know that. Just an excuse to stop by their new shop.

FYI - the bore on the rod ends I have are 3/8"

Just remembered about the shop just down the street from my office. http://www.aedmotorsport.com/FK/CM_CF.htm
They supply a lot of the specialty metals and other neat stuff for the Indy and Champ car teams plus the other local racers, mostly open-wheel guys (sprints and midgets).
$3.55 for the CM6, $6.55 for the teflon lined version.
Better quality than the originals that I'm chucking in the trash.

I had this same problem on the 21mm Whiteline bar on my B14. Originally I fabbed up some rod end connectors using standard grade spherical rod ends to connect to the mounting plate on the body, to give more precise control over the initiation of the action from the sway bar. The S hooks that came with the bar were ditched.

The rod ends started clicking and rattling within 2 weeks. After 2 months I replaced them with high quality teflon lined ends. I have driven the car 25000 miles , heavily autocrossed it ( Nationals this year too ) and there is still no noise from those joints.

IIRC I paid $16 each for them but IMHO It was worth every penny in noise reduction alone. Qualitatively the rod ends really bring the bar into play immediately.

Milburn

I had this problem and I replaced them with these. Just get 2 male and 2 female ends. I forget the size but I think it's 3/8" or 1/2".
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.80/qx/Product.htm

That's what I was going to recommend. Progress doesn't want to sell replacement parts and when they do they want you to pay way too much for them.

Just remembered about the shop just down the street from my office. http://www.aedmotorsport.com/FK/CM_CF.htm
They supply a lot of the specialty metals and other neat stuff for the Indy and Champ car teams plus the other local racers, mostly open-wheel guys (sprints and midgets).
$3.55 for the CM6, $6.55 for the teflon lined version.
Better quality than the originals that I'm chucking in the trash.

Those prices are excellent! I'm going to have to get some of those nifty teflon lined ones this spring and just go ahead and replace all the originals.

Those prices are excellent! I'm going to have to get some of those nifty teflon lined ones this spring and just go ahead and replace all the originals.
AED is where I got my rod ends. Glad someone else reminded me. FK 3/8 IIRC. Thru bolts had a little bit of play which I fixed with a plastic spacer collar.

Milburn