If you're mechanically inclined and have a good bit of patience yes. If you're mechanically inclined and have no patience (such as myself) no. I started to do mine when I realized I didn't have the patience, nor the knowhow to accomplish the task. That teamed up with my father offering to give me $150 just to take it to a shop so he wouldn't have to help made up my mind.

Hmmm how come my orginal post isn't being displayed?

I wonder how much patience I need to save the $450 quoted for just the labor?

Art

I took my time with mine, and it took a total of about 8 to 10 hours working with my brother. I used all air tools for the big stuff, had evey tool I needed, including the needed fluids for the tranny when done.

I used an engine hoist and lifted the "tranny" side of the motor up a few inches after removing the drive axels and what not. Once that was accomplished, I just cracked the tranny case open just enough to remove the old and installed and align the new. It is definately not a job for the novice.

I couldn't have done it with out the help of my brother, an engine hoist, two 1 3/4 ton Jack Stands to get her way up in the air, 2 large pizzas and a case of Corona's. Oh yeah, and the FSM.

good luck, take your time, and have fun!

Mike

Hmmm

Looks like my mechanic is going to get some work!

Art

Oh, it's not that bad. I've done it twice, once with some help, once by myself, and I'm pretty inept. Ron Chong's FAQ is awesome, it was my bible. Try searching SE-R.net for that. You don't need an engine hoist, you can use a jack for supporting the engine. You also don't need to pop off the ball joints or pull the driver's axle. I didn't have an FSM, either. The only hard parts are:

1. Getting your exhaust secondary off, especially if it is really rusted.

2. Hoisting the trans back up. It's like 70lbs, it's best to have some help.

It took me a good 8 hours or so each time, because, as I said, I'm a bit inept. I've seen people do it in half that time.

I'll be installing a 95 in my 92 this weekend, It is not that bad the only "hard" part of it is getting the starter bolts started, it helps if you got two for that.

Alfie

Originally posted by Driven97

1. Getting your exhaust secondary off, especially if it is really rusted.



Why did you have to take your exhaust off, for a clutch job I have never touched my exhaust. :confused:

Alfie

When it comes down to removing the secondary to the exhaust, I agree. I did that so I could get to the center brace that holds the front and rear motormounts on and to remove that brace also.

Again, I hoisted my engine on the tranny side and only left the passenger side motor mount in tact. I had the tools and accessories to do it and "I" felt that was the best method for "ME". As you can see, it is clearly how you want to attack it.

You know what they say. "YRMV" or "YMMV".

I did my job myself to save the $480 dollars in labor. In return, I have a Stillen Stage II Clutch and a JUN Ultralight Flywheel. I paid the same amount that I would have to a mechanic, but I got a lot more goodies and I was a little mor eintimate with my car. :D

Mike

Originally posted by enjoyDride


Why did you have to take your exhaust off, for a clutch job I have never touched my exhaust. :confused:

Alfie

I followed *most* of Ron's instructions. I supported the motor from below with a jack, from the upper oil pan which is behind the secondary. It can probably be done without, but that's the way I did it.

-Matt

What ever works, right!

you dont have to remove the crossmember either. Its not to bad if you have someone to help with the lifting. I've putin 3 clutches and 2 trannys noww al at seperate times :mad: talk about time spent under the car.

i gotta do mine soon *** my throw out bearing is bad. I just figured i would follow the steps from sentra.net. They have a article w/ pics.