I just had the RTR Power Steering Eliminator kit installed this
morning.
Took a couple of hours because we kept stopping so I could take
pictures. I dropped the pictures off earlier, so they should be
developed later this week (sorry, I don't have a digicam), and when
they're ready, I'll scan them and upload them so you all can see them.

The kit weighs about 4 pounds. The p/s pump and related hardware
weighs about 12 pounds, so there's a weight savings. Plus, there's is
now one less item to break. Not to mention all the real estate you'll
free up in the engine compartment.

Installation is pretty straight forward, with minimal grinding to
make the braket fit. Once I have the pictures posted, I'll point out
some of the areas that might give you some trouble, as well as some
short cuts that I've found.

After the installation was finished, I went for an hour drive just to
get a good "feel" for the steering.
My impressions were that the steering effort at low speeds is
definately more than before, but not as bad as I had expected.
It took a little getting used to, but nothing too difficult.
At highway speeds, the steering felt more "precise" and the steering
feedback is more noticeable. PLUS, the motor revs a lot easier
since it has one less accessory to power. As to how much more HP is
freed up. My guess is 1-2 more HP. I'll know for sure once I can get
my car to the Dyno.

A little more effort is required to throw the car into a tight turn,
but again, it isn't too difficult and nothing that you can't get used
too in a little time. Track racers will no longer have to deal with
the off and on again variable assist from overheating p/s fluid.
Drag racers will like the weight savings as well as the freer reving
motor.

Definately money well spent.:D

is there any information you can give me as far as where to get that kit? and if you wanted to can you reinstall powersteering? thanks

Didn't sound like you got a manual rack- I assume the PS rack will work ok without pressure or whatnot in the longrun?

is there any information you can give me as far as where to get that kit?
Yes, contact JOEL WARD (joelw@mcdirect.com) and tell him you want to purchase his Power Steering Eliminator Kit. Tell him you heard about it from Thomas Fox.
He'll give you the details on how to purchase.

if you wanted to can you reinstall powersteering?
Yes. I did make one cut that made one of the P/S hard lines unserviceable, but if you want to re-use the P/S again, you could avoid that and do something else.
Once I get the pictures posted, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Didn't sound like you got a manual rack
No. I considered it. But the manual rack requires more turns lock to lock, so I decided to keep the quicker p/s rack.

I assume the PS rack will work ok without pressure or whatnot in the longrun?
I do not anticipate any long term problems. I've done this before on a rwd Nissan truck. And no problems with the p/s rack there.

Subculture: Why didnt u guys just do like the sentra's that came with no power steering! On that car the just ran the water pump off the alternator belt! All u need is maybe a longer belt and a modded pulley which would line up one belt over! Then u wouldnt need this extra idler pulley so u can adjust it? I though the hole purpose was to remove that pulley? your just replacing the power steering pulley with an idler pulley?

Why didnt u guys just do like the sentra's that came with no power steering!

I recommend that you take a look at a belt diagram for an FWD SR20DE motor.

On that car the just ran the water pump off the alternator belt!
Yes, I know that. Joel Ward knows that. Everybody that was involved with this project knows that.

All u need is maybe a longer belt and a modded pulley which would line up one belt over!
FIRST, there isn't enough room.
SECOND, if there was enough room for a modded pulley. The extra load placed on it would cause premature wear of the w/p and alternator.

I though the hole purpose was to remove that pulley?
WRONG. The purpose is to free up HP that is lost driving the p/s pump.

your just replacing the power steering pulley with an idler pulley?
That's right! The idler pulley won't take ANY power to turn. It's just there to provide tension on the belt that turns the w/p.

The ONLY other viable option would have been to use a alternator and bracket from the RWD SR20DET. But that would have been WAY more expesive!

Originally posted by Subculture

The kit weighs about 4 pounds. The p/s pump and related hardware weighs about 12 pounds, so there's a weight savings.
.
.
Definitely money well spent.:D

Glad to hear this!

I just got mine too. I am lightening it down to about 2 lbs. I am looking forward to reading your writeup, Thomas. Can I drive your NX also? Just want to feel it before I finally install it (and hence crossing the point of no return.)

One SCC staff told me that he got 5-6 HPs gain just by removing P/S pump from a Civic project car. But then again, that's a Honduhh.

Also, one SR20DE guy DID an alternator conversion. Basically, he put an alternator where the P/S is. Therefore, you are running one belt spinning water pump, alternator and the main crank. And this was done when the engine was OUT of the car. The install requires that you turn over the crank to force the belt to fully seat on all the pulleys.

However, I wonder if we would have enough space to do it when the engine is in the car: it is a very tight fit in there.

To me, RTR P/S eliminator kit seems like a much better solution.

And as Thomas mentioned, this should solve my problem of boiling/overflowing P/S fluid, remove alot of dead weights, and of course, free some ponies.

Boonie

Hey Thomas,

For the auto-xers on the forum, would you recommend the PS eliminator kit for them? They deal with tight turns on some auto-x courses.

Just wondering,

I have the first RTR P/S Elim kit on my racecar, and it's definately worth it, IMHO.

After years of hotlapping and getting the boiling over PS fluid every Classic owner had, it's nice not to have to expect the variable power steering that came along with the boiling-over fluid. Effort is higher, but not too bad unless you're having to do some tight parking lot maneuvering. Feedback through the wheel is great, you can feel exactly what the car is doing. Initially the increased effort and feedback seems weird; it's the same rack, so it's not going to be like a manual rack which is designed to minimize those things. After a weekend of driving the racecar, it's not a different world to drive my G20.

Autocrossers might get sore shoulders from increased effort, but I don't think you'll miss any turns on the course. If anything, you'll be better off becuase the second cut of the wheel can be a bit of guesswork with the stock PS in a classic.

Just my $.02,
Tom

I'm pretty sure the rules nazis would prevent that from being a competitive mod. Oddly enough I haven't had a problem with the power steering cutting out on my NX while autocrossing. It does puke up a little fluid but it's not a huge deal. Autocrossing without power steering is pretty much a huge PITA, from my experiences driving my roomates car (which you are familiar with Antonio :))

Then again I might just be too wimpy/girly to handle a car without power steering :p And I haven't ever driven a manual steering se-r so it might be a lot better than a 79 280zx.