I've been doing a lot of research on hopefully my next mod to my B15, Unorthodox UR Pulley's (crank, water pump). I've read Kojima's article on them and was very impressed by the gains on the dyno in his "Project SE-R 1998", but what I am wondering is has anyone had bad experiences with the pullies. Some of my friends in the Honda crowd tell me of people they know going thru H22a's within 10k miles with the addition of a lightened crank pulley. The flywheel and crank pulley are designed to balance vibrations out of the engine right? So how effective is the smaller/lighter pulley at doing this? I just want to be sure on the next mod won't cause any potential harm to my 22k mile SR20. :)

-01

the sr20 comes pretty close to being balanced from the factory, so there is no real big scare of messing anything up. I have had them on my car for a while, and I am sure tons and tons of more people have them on their cars with no problem.

most car makers use the pulley's themselves to help keep the engine in balance and not vibrate. that is why you hear of some cars like prelude's going through motors so quickly. nissan balanced the sr20de internally so i do not believe you have to worry about different pulleys causing any problems.

i read that in a sport compact car btw.

3 years 10:1 motor with 2 pulley set no problems.

nissan balanced the sr20de internally so i do not believe you have to worry about different pulleys causing any problems.

This is true, if you read the rest of Kojima's article he brings this up. So the engine's balance is not an issue. But what you do have to be carefull with is the install. I have heard of people breaking the guide key on the crank(where the little slot on the pulley lines up), it goes into the engine and POOF that's all she wrote. So just be carefull with that and you'll be fine. I just installed mine last week and like them a lot.

Martin G.

Martin, do you have A/T by any chance? If so I have couple questions about install

No I don't bro, but it really doesn't matter. I'm assuming that you want to know how to torque down the pulley right? Well even when I put the car in gear the pulley still moved. So I used a small wrench and put it through one of the wholes of the pulley in order to hold the pulley in place. BE CAREFULL while doing this, you don't want to damage the pulley, I think you only need to torque it to a little above 100 pounds. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Martin

yea but I also have a question on how to take off the pulley... I've read that for A/T I would have to take off starter and jam flywheel from moving... while for M/T all you have to do is put it in gear and press on brake... I was wondering why... is it because you can't put A/T in gear without turning ignition off? or because the slush box won't hold the flywheel from moving even when in gear?

Thanks :)

1 year, 8 track events, too many autocross runs to count and ~10,000 miles since I installed a 2-set. No problems.

When i install the pulleys i ran into some problem, first the crank pulley will not come out so i have to use a puller and that took me like 25min to do, than the alternator and the waterpump i have no problem with and this only took me 30min to install.
But the freaking Power steering wheel i ran to alot of problem, there is absolutly not that much space to work on it. First i got something to jam the power steering wheel pullies from spinning and i finally got it to jam and got the pulley out, than when i go head to put the aftermarket one on, the hole is too small so i have to shave a little bit off inorder to make it perfect fit. This took me like 2 hour.

If u not sure what u doing, don't even try it.

Goood luck