Yep, that's why I suggested using a circuit breaker instead.

C

Word. That, and if you accidentally trip it, you're out 30 seconds of time and some radio preset programming, not another $20 wafer fuse or however much they cost these days (could be $0.30 with China in the mix now... :D).

Yep, that's why I suggested using a circuit breaker instead.

C

Yea i am probably going to be doing that sometime in the future, the block seems like it wont be putting up with my driving style once i hit the country backroads a few times. Not to mention the electrical tape they put on the back side of the thing to keep the screws holding the terminals in place, from grounding out. It was pretty easy to get the wire (20' 2 gauge autozone jumper) to the back.
I did go through the fender to the wire trough, tucked it between the back seat and the side panel, up through the rear fender and out through a hole in the body in the back. Still had about 4.5 feet of wire in the trunk....pics in a week, im on vacation so havent had a chance to take any pics of it.

Chris - Thanks for taking time for doing the writeup, but it's kinda hard to follow w/all the pics aggregated on picasaweb. Not complaining, just saying ;)

Also, so you suggest replacing the distribution block in your original write up with another 150amp 12v ebay circuit breaker? Other than that, is there anything else you'd change from your original post?

Chris - Thanks for taking time for doing the writeup, but it's kinda hard to follow w/all the pics aggregated on picasaweb. Not complaining, just saying ;)Fixed!

Also, so you suggest replacing the distribution block in your original write up with another 150amp 12v ebay circuit breaker? Other than that, is there anything else you'd change from your original post?Keep the rear breaker, use a breaker at the front, and don't cut off the original fusible links.

C

Fixed!

Keep the rear breaker, use a breaker at the front, and don't cut off the original fusible links.

C

Awesome! Thanks for getting the pics in line w/the write up again. I'll be doing this relocation soon :biggthump

I also have heard that running the thick wire through the inner driver's side door jam can cause issues w/shutting the door? Did you experience anything like that?

You mean here?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_A9eq2D6-7Wg/SEdaFEBNN9I/AAAAAAAAAaU/ZoLTq-OPfF0/s400/aac.jpg

C

You mean here?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_A9eq2D6-7Wg/SEdaFEBNN9I/AAAAAAAAAaU/ZoLTq-OPfF0/s400/aac.jpg

C

Ya, FF to 2:33 on this video I found on the Tube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vqjc3jhj50k

Nope, no problem at all. I didn't watch the whole video, but he drilled a hole and ran it through the firewall? FAIL! Through the fender and the factory grommet is the way to go. C

Nope, no problem at all. I didn't watch the whole video, but he drilled a hole and ran it through the firewall? FAIL! Through the fender and the factory grommet is the way to go. C

ahhh, he should have read your writeup! :tongue:

I have another question. Something I'm not getting here.

If you don't use a distribution block, how do you aggregate the 3 cables currently going to the positive terminal onto the 150 amp circuit breaker?

I have another question. Something I'm not getting here.

If you don't use a distribution block, how do you aggregate the 3 cables currently going to the positive terminal onto the 150 amp circuit breaker?From post #27 With the breaker up front, I just removed the ring from the the original positive terminal, and was able to keep the stock red connector & fusible link.

C