i need to know this asap

i need to know this asap

I can get some for you. You want all standard sizes? I'm placing an order for mine today, and am getting all standard.

Corey

guys, stick with nissan bearings...they are the best you can get, and you can get them in the proper grades for your crank/block fittments...

no luck with stock,and my crank is out of round need to be cut

youre going to need undersized bearings, or a new crank. clevite 77's are supposedly the best but who knows.

am taking the engine to the machine shop tuesday to fit the cp9.1 pistons and
eagle rods

As much as I agree with P@t, I will ONLY run Clevite or Nissan bearings. Reason I'm running Clevite, they are more available to me.

Corey

clevite bearings work well. personally i like to run oem rod bearings, preferably gti-r bearings, and the clevite main bearings. i have noticed that when using the nissan main bearings,...after plastiguageing and torquing, the crankshaft is difficult to turn. i have been told that it is normal, and then i have been told that its not good to be like that. so to address the problem, i like to use clevite main bearings. they come within spec of the fsm after torquing, and the crank is easier to turn. havent had any problems with this setup yet.

clevite bearings work well. personally i like to run oem rod bearings, preferably gti-r bearings, and the clevite main bearings. i have noticed that when using the nissan main bearings,...after plastiguageing and torquing, the crankshaft is difficult to turn. i have been told that it is normal, and then i have been told that its not good to be like that. so to address the problem, i like to use clevite main bearings. they come within spec of the fsm after torquing, and the crank is easier to turn. havent had any problems with this setup yet.

Just out of curiousity Lance, why don't you use the Clevites for the rod bearings? Just wondering.

I'm sure it's because of the tighter clearances that the rod bearings need to withstand, but I'd just rather be safe than sorry when I'm throwing my motor together.

Corey

after plastiguageing and torquing, the crankshaft is difficult to turn.

I've had the same problem. I had the oem bearings coated at Swain, and somehow the bearings looked like the coating had corroded them somehow. Plus even when the clearances were perfect, the crank would not turn. Then I had it line honed, and the damn thing would still not turn. The shop who builds my engines recommended some special kind of bearing. Aluminum silicate or something, I don't remember exactly. Apparently it is far superior to the stock tri-metal bearings. We'll see how it works.

Quoted by Bigtoe from another thread:

Stay away from the OEM Nissan Bearings. The only advantage offered by them are the grading sizes.
If you can get a standard crank then the range of tollerance between OEM specification and "normal" wear would fall within the range of available tollerances from Clevite or Federal Mougal (+0.001 to 0.002). At this stage you may only need to polish to fit rather than cut to fit.
Nissan's bearings are an aluminum inlay over steel with the babit coating. They do not offer sufficient toughness (fatigue resistance) and the inlay expands at a differenet rate than the steel back, hence they almost always deform or loose the conformity to the rod bore.........always loose after tear down.
The Clevite or Federal Mougal (along with others) use a steel back, a copper based inlya nd the babit surface on top, the babit is also thinner than stock. End result is a better control of expansion and the copper offers more ductility thereby adding fatigue resistance to the bearing, as a result the babit layer is not subjected to the same levels of fatigue as on the OEM Aluminum bearings.
OF COURSE, this has absolutely no benefit if you are having an oiling problem

At my shop we use Clevite77 bearings for all of our engines. we build toyota 4age and vw engines for scca racers, former toyota atlantic series, and offroad. I havent seen better bearing reliability wise. If you know how to put an engine together properly and calculate all clearances, with real tools, and not plastigauge, then you will never lose the bottom end due to bearings. it might be other things...oiling problem.... but not bearing. Havent seen Clevite77's go bad on me yet. They make great stuff.

Quoted by Bigtoe from another thread:
that's interesting where can i get these clevite bearings?

Ok, great! Just wanted to make sure.

Corey

NAPA