I wondered if anyone knows if this meets the NASA CCR or do the rear bars need to come down from the main hoop directly onto the tower? Right now they are slightly inboard of the tower attached to the strut tower bar so we won't have to cut any of the factory bracing that you see.

This isn't my car. We are starting on it tomorrow. This was how we were going to do the rear bars with an additional x on the bottom as well. That x will connect on the tower and go as low as possible on the main hoop.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/Racingswh/DSCN0420.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/Racingswh/DSCN0419.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/Racingswh/DSCN0417.jpg

I wondered if anyone knows if this meets the NASA CCR or do the rear bars need to come down from the main hoop directly onto the tower? Right now they are slightly inboard of the tower attached to the strut tower bar so we won't have to cut any of the factory bracing that you see.

This isn't my car. We are starting on it tomorrow. This was how we were going to do the rear bars with an additional x on the bottom as well. That x will connect on the tower and go as low as possible on the main hoop.

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No, thats a good cage.

Thanks! I appreciate your input on that.

BTW, Nice job on all your projects.

Yeah, Mike's right, that is fine. I think the place in the rules where you got confused is the part where they say it "may" attach to the shock mounts or suspension pickup points but doesn't mean that it HAS to.

As long as the rear braces are at or near the top of the main hoop, don't have any bends in them, and are reasonably close to perpendicular to the main hoop when viewed from above, you'll be fine.

PS> Have you thought about the lower X instead of the upper X pictured? Or adding the lower X in addition?

PS> Have you thought about the lower X instead of the upper X pictured? Or adding the lower X in addition?

This was how we were going to do the rear bars with an additional x on the bottom as well. That x will connect on the tower and go as low as possible on the main hoop.
No Jim, he hasn't... :D

Cage looks perfectly legal.

BTW: Make sure you removed the sound deadening before the cage is installed. That guy's going to have a great time removing his if he wants to...

Jim, Thanks for reinforcing Mikes position. Exactly what you stated is where I got confused. I have heard (not seen with my own eyes) of some of these S13's collapsing in on themselves when too much factory bracing is removed. I was worried that we were going to have to cut it out to make the cage legal. We planned from the beginning to do the lower X. We started today. I am very excited. An SCCA T2 prepared Camaro rolled into the shop for a new cage and gave us great ideas on how to do the dash in my car.



BTW: Make sure you removed the sound deadening before the cage is installed. That guy's going to have a great time removing his if he wants to...


Steve,

I used your dry ice and hammer technique which worked perfect! Thanks. I wore fireplace gloves and just froze and smashed as I went. Took me about 2 hours for the whole car!!


If you can believe it this thing is still a street car. As you can kind of see Nate (cage builder and fabricator not the car owner) left some room for a headliner to go back in. The owner is going to try to reinstall the as much of the interior as possible.

Check this out. Nate grafted the RHD JDM front to the USDM rear.

My 240 is in the background.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/Racingswh/DSCN0421.jpg

I will probably eventually do that to the SE-R, but it's hard. Kind of past the point of no return there...