What is your favorite to redo the oil pan gasket?

Also is the removal and installation of the pan straight forward? How long do I have to wait after I reinstall the pan with the new gasket?

Permatex Ultra Grey works fine - or if you want to spend 3 times as much, get a tube of "genuine nissan" grey gasket maker from your dealer.

If you are talking about the lower pan, yeah, it's pretty straightforward, just a bunch of 10mm bolts. You will need a sharp putty knife with a sturdy handle and a hammer to chisel the oil pan off. The upper pan can get hairy though.

Wait at least an hour after you seal it up before you start the motor. I disregarded this once and was rewarded with a leaky lower oil pan. Sealed it again and let it sit overnight, no more problems.

<EDIT> Oh, wait, you have a GA16... why did you post this on an SR20 forum?

Anyhow, according to my FSM you have a 1pc oil pan unlike us. So you will have to remove the crossmember and support the tranny with a jack when you pull the pan - not a big deal. The rest of the advice transfers over the same though (putty knife, Permatex Grey, let it sit). </EDIT>

Josh

sorry I figured overall procedure is the same. not alot of people visit B13-B14 forums on B15 boards...

My oil pan is on the right.. its far from cross member... oh well thanks anyways

Q: Why is upper oil pan needed? Is it located somewhere near the pulley system?

The reason is I've been getting "sweaty" oil pan bottom and I have changed the washer and the drain plug, so its not that... I will replace front crank seal while installing UR crank pulley and maybe replace oil pressure sending unit... I wasn't aware of second pan.. So it can be causing leaks too? Anywhere else? I really need to buy FSM....
Thanks :)

Nothing to be sorry about... just wondering. I know we share everything but the drivetrain, but most of the guys here wouldn't know much about GA16 engines. But we do have FSMs :).

You don't have an upper oil pan. GA16s have one oil pan, SR20s have an upper and a lower. I was thinking you had an SR20 at that point. According to the FSM you need to remove the crossmember and the exhaust secondary to remove the oil pan on a GA16. Not sure how accurate that is though - I know I have removed an SR20 upper pan by just unbolting the downpipe from the manifold, and leaving it attached to the cat. I am pretty sure you will have to pull the crossmember though.

Josh

Thanks, now that I know alittle more detail I will ask more specific questions on that procedure on B15 boards...

Another thing, I've been reading about UR pulley install and alot of people were concerned with puncturing the front engine cover... It's like its made of paper mache.. just my thoughts...

Also what is impact wrench? Is it something like compressed air gun?

An impact wrench is a tool (usually using compressed air) with an internal mechanism that delivers a series of sharp blows in rapid succession to remove threaded fasteners. I can take a crossmember off a B13 in about 2 minutes with mine :). It makes dropping the exhaust secondary a cinch too. And I wouldn't do suspension work without one.

B15 boards??? But you can't even get a GA16 in a B15? Or do they have B13/B14 1.6 sections over there (I assume you are talking about B15sentra.net - I have never even looked at that site).

Josh

feel free to stop by :) www.b15sentra.net/UBB.html

Originally posted by MEclassic
And I wouldn't do suspension work without one.


I won't do any work requiring specific torque values w/o one.

How do you manage to get specific torque values out of an air impact wrench? I don't normally use it to tighten things. Too much of a risk of overtightening.

Josh

Originally posted by MEclassic
How do you manage to get specific torque values out of an air impact wrench? I don't normally use it to tighten things. Too much of a risk of overtightening.

Through careful experimentation I've found that my impact wrench at the second to highest setting (3 of 4) torques to about 50ft-lbs. So in most cases I'll use that setting to snug all the bolts then I'll return with the torque wrench to do the final tightening. If the spec calls for ~50ft-lbs I usually just hit it with the gun and I'm finished.

The usefulness of an impact wrench is far greater for removing bolts than installing them though.

I do that sometimes when I am lazy with wheels - I know that setting 2/5 on mine equals about 85 ft-lb. so I sometimes use that for the lugnuts. I wouldn't feel comfortable tightening much else with it though.

Josh