How To: change your oil. The basics.

This is an easy task for many but this write-up is for the few who need some help in learning how to do the basic wrenching.

First off you should buy your oil brand of choice. I prefer Mobil, but any dyno, synthetic blend or full synthetic should do just fine. 5w30 is the FSM recommended viscosity and it is what I use in my NA p10.

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FSM oil Viscosity illustration for reference:
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Next gather the tools that are needed: 14mm wrench (for the drain plug), Oil filter wrench (optional) and ramps (also optional).

Remember the sr20de takes 3 5/8’s qt when replacing the oil filter and 3 3/8’s qt when you decide not to replace the oil filter. The later is not recommended, you should always replace your oil filter when replacing your oil.

It is also recommended by most to use OEM Nissan oil filters. Reason being is they have a drain back valve on them that stops the oil from leaking out of the filter when the motor is shut down. Thus keeping the filter primed giving you less of a chance for damage when starting up your motor.

Dunkin Donuts Coffee Recommended but not required

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Ok here we go; you got your 4 qt’s of oil and your oil filter?

Good. Now park you car with the e-brake on, on a flat level surface or up on ramps to make it easier. Chock the wheels if you’re using ramps just to be on the safe side.

Pop your hood

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Now unscrew your oil filler cap, doing this will let the oil flow out quickly and smoothly.

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Next thing you will need to do is get your oil pan and place it under your oil drain plug.

Now unscrew your oil plug and let it drain into the oil pan. Try to get your drain plug and you hand out of the way as quick as you can so the oil doesn’t run down you wrist.. It sucks when this happens.

Unscrew

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And drain

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While your oil is draining you can replace your filter, clean the drain plug and replace the copper gasket on it. Make sure to saturate the rubber gasket on you new oil filter with some new or old oil. Doing this ensures your new filter will have a clean tight seal on the oil filter assembly.

Remove oil filter B15/P11 sr20 view

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This is the location of the oil filter for the p10,b13,b14 and 99 p11 (non Roller Rocker).

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As you can see on the p10,b13,b14 and the non roller rocker p11 you have just enough room to put on the filter wrench and your Craftsman professional polished 9" ratchet (I love using that thing :cool:).

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FSM illustration of the filter location for the p10,b13,b14 and 99 p11 (non Roller).

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Place your new filter on (The FSM states to tighten filter until a slight resistance is felt, Then tighten an additional 2/3rds of a turn)

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Next clean off your drain plug

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Take off the old copper gasket

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And replace it with a shiny new one

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&

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Now replace the drain plug

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And tighten making sure the new copper gasket is fully compressed to the proper torque specifications. (FSM states 22-29 ft-lbs)

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Done? OK.. now lets filler’ up with the new oil. 3 5/8 qt’s later and you should be ready to go.

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Before starting the car back up I usually unplug both connectors on the distributor and crank the car over until the oil light goes out ensuring the motor is fully primed.

Now that the motor is all primed you should plug you distributor plugs back in and start her up. Let the motor idle for a few seconds and shut it down. Now check the oil level and you should be all set.

Go drive the hell out of it!

Mike

What oil (brand and grade) would you reccomend for sr20dets or boosted sr20's. What about for summer?

hmm seems like you forgot about the 15208-9E000

that holds a little bit more oil and thus can add a full 4 qts of oil. But good write up nonetheless

*edit* BTW walmart sells the mobile 5 qt gallon tanker for 20 so its cheaper than buying them seperatly

okay.. so what about the GRADE of oil? 5w30? 5w40? 10w40??
can anyone reccommend for a sr20det? what oil is good for hot summer weather and 8 psi of boost.

I always used Mobile 1 synthetic 5-30 with my turbo b14. Lately with my current NA p10 I have been running the Mobile 7500 synthetic blend 5-30(changed every 3k miles).

As for what is best for summer/winter turbo/na I’m no expert. Possibly someone else can explain in detail what would be the best grades to use.

Mike

You need oil in cars? Uh oh...

=)
Nice write up

nobody uses redline? or 5w40? 10w40 ?

btw.. the first number is the viscosity rating at "cold"temp, and that second number is the viscosity at "high " temp.

I'm thinking the second number should be higher than 30??? ANYONE have any input?

I just found alot of good info about oil/viscosity/turbo/heat/cold etc in this thread. Check it out ChronicG..

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=45445&highlight=oil+turbo+mobil

Mike

tighten making sure the new copper gasket is fully compressed to the proper torque specks
stupid question (me=newb): how do you tighten it to a specific torque spec? lets say a manaul says its xx N-m, how do i do it specifically at that much?

You use a 3/8" torque wrench. I've never had a problem with "hand tight", just don't go to town on the thing with a 3' wratchet.

VERY VERY GOOD TIP!
When you take the oil cap off the valve cover, put it on your hood latch. That way you won't be able to close the hood without being reminded that you haven't put oil in the engine.

It's not so much a problem when you do a single oil change, but when I was a technician doing 10 - 15 oil changes in a day on top of transmission changes, diagnosis, etc. you can forget and it is very costly.

hey im doing this from home, so i haven't got ramps. is there something else i can use instead?

i normally use the regular car jackand put the car up about 6 more inches than where it stands that way my bucket fits under and its enough space to get under

You need oil in cars? Uh oh...

=)
Nice write up
Huh!? I thought cars need gas to work!? :biggthump

on b14's u dont need ramps or a jack to do a oil change...u just slide up in there ;

unless ur car is lowered...but if u need some lift u can just use two 2x4's and roll

up on them to raise the car..

it's more safer that way..plus it comes in handy if u dont have access to ramps or

a good working jack..and good comment about the 5 gallon jug being cheaper!!

im gona start doing that

and heres a hint!=if u get a oil on ur parents porch=just wipe it down as best u can and spray brake cleaner all around it and wipe it up ....

like the penguin said "u didn't c anyyyything!!"

and invest in a drip pan at autozone there great for all sorts of messy jobs

ok, my next oil change was due and i changed it today. problem is that i think i got a faulty oil filter. i kept turning and turning but it just didnt screw on... (literally spent over an hour ***** screw in on). then i tried the old oil filter and it went on with no problem on first try. so i concluded "oh god, u gotta be sh*tting me, they gave me a faulty oil filter at the dealer"
well, im gonna go back and change for another one, hopefully this time it wil be a NON-defective one. but just one thing i wanna ask. right now it means i got new oil but the same oil filter (which has been taken off and put back on). my questiuon is, which should i do?
-keep it as it is and just change the filter next time i change the oil.
-just change the filter without touching the rest (i wanna know if this is even ok to do, dont want sh*t loads of oil coming out when i take off the old filter)
-or should i just change all of it together? (which will hurt my wallet a bit coz i'll have to buy more oil)

ideally the third choice seems the best, but if i can get away with the second one, i'll just go with that. can anyone help?

ok, my next oil change was due and i changed it today. problem is that i think i got a faulty oil filter. i kept turning and turning but it just didnt screw on... (literally spent over an hour ***** screw in on). then i tried the old oil filter and it went on with no problem on first try. so i concluded "oh god, u gotta be sh*tting me, they gave me a faulty oil filter at the dealer"
well, im gonna go back and change for another one, hopefully this time it wil be a NON-defective one. but just one thing i wanna ask. right now it means i got new oil but the same oil filter (which has been taken off and put back on). my questiuon is, which should i do?
-keep it as it is and just change the filter next time i change the oil.
-just change the filter without touching the rest (i wanna know if this is even ok to do, dont want sh*t loads of oil coming out when i take off the old filter)
-or should i just change all of it together? (which will hurt my wallet a bit coz i'll have to buy more oil)

ideally the third choice seems the best, but if i can get away with the second one, i'll just go with that. can anyone help?

i think you should be fine changing the oil filter as soon as you get a new one, just let the car sit for a while before you do it so the oil has time to drain into the pan, that way not much(if any) will spill out.

btw, i always liked Castrol 20-50:D

i think you should be fine changing the oil filter as soon as you get a new one, just let the car sit for a while before you do it so the oil has time to drain into the pan, that way not much(if any) will spill out.

btw, i always liked Castrol 20-50:D

as in turn the engine off, leave it for quite a while, then change the oil filter?

thats right.

I don't see the purpose of disconnecting the distributor. All you are doing is emptying and refilling the drain pan. Why would this engine start be different from any other?

I don't see the purpose of disconnecting the distributor. All you are doing is emptying and refilling the drain pan. Why would this engine start be different from any other?

When you remove the oil filter to change it the oil in the filter jack/pump usually drains into the pan. I like to unplug the distributer and crank it to make sure it's primed before starting it up.

I'm sure it not a necessity but I like to do it for piece of mind.

Mike