DE-T Swap...Help [Archive] - SR20 Forum

: DE-T Swap...Help


LogicalRetard
03-12-2002, 11:47 PM
I called SRDevelopment and they can get the 205hp BB DE-T for $1800, and the 237hp GTi-R for $2600. The thing is that the BB DE-T parts can be interchanged with USDM SR's, and the GTi-R's can't, and i have 2 N/A SR's right now (one in car, one in garage). The dude said that for the BB swap all I need is the ECU, wiring harness, and downpipe, for the GTi-R I need all that plus a fuel pump, MAF, MAF harness, and fuel injector resisitors. What would be more worth it? What could I do with that extra money from the BB swap to make up for the extra horses? B.T.W. the BB has a T25, and the GTi-R, a T28.

Shnoopz
03-13-2002, 12:01 AM
Sorry, I cant help with your question... But i have one as well... Ive asked before but never gotten to straight of an answer...

About how much does it cost for the entire DET swap? I mean the cost to buy the new engine, any parts needed to go with it, and the autoshop install... in other words if i were to go do it tomorrow how much money should i take outta my bank tonight???? :)

Thanx

PNWser
03-13-2002, 12:21 AM
Motor: 1400+
ecu: 400-550
downpipe: 125+
fuel pump- 125
misc tune up parts/fluids/materials- 200
piping/labor to make the TMIC a FMIC- 200
clutch: 250+
labor: 0-500+


motor, tmic, fuel pump, used jwt ecu, misc parts, DIY downpipe, your clutch, your labor: 2250

same as above, new clutch, new ecu, FMIC the top mount, 250 for nice downpipe: 2975

W/a buddy buddy labor charge: 3475.

My det swap in my 91 sentra ran a bit over 3 grand with a used jwt ecu, stock fuel pump, 2.5 downpipe into 3 inch cat back, avc-r (GET A FUEL PUMP BEFORE A BOOST CONTROLLER!! I did not blow my motor but I should have), did my own labor and FMIC'd the TMIC.

good luck. PM me w/more q's

david lau

xDennis
03-13-2002, 12:22 AM
Harness Wiring Service S13 $100 S14 $250
SR20DET engine, including ECU, MAFS, CAS, stock clutch, 5 speed trans. $2400
Engine and trans delivery $80-150
Intercooler kit with piping $850-1000
Hot IC pipe $89
BOV or Recirculating Valve $120-220
3" Downpipe $139-229
K&N-style Cone filter with MAF adapter $55
Walbro Hi Flow Fuel pump $129
Electric Fan and Thermostat $139
Clutch Kit $309-349

Labor - Including Install of above $1500

Total $5810 - $6260 (plus shipping on some items)

This is from www.heavythrottle.com or SR20development

PNWser
03-13-2002, 12:28 AM
As far as the BB DET vs GTIR DET....
You have to weigh your options with your needs...
the gtir will need more maintnence, be more expensive when it breaks, and make more power from the get go.
The gtir has a better flowing head, and the head design is better for turbo (more quench area.. I think?) lower compression, different rods and bearings, bigger oil pump, mechanical lifters, 8.3:1 compression ratio, SAME PISTONS as the BB DET, (CR is different because of the head design, not the pistons, a common mistake) gtir has oil squirters also. individual throttle bodys, top feed 440 cc injectors (I think) t28 turbo.

The BB DET has oil squirters, 8.5:1 compression, t25 turbo, sodium filled exhaust valves, oil cooler, and shares everything but pistons practically with the USDM SR20DE. It has side feed 370cc injectors.

Look around at the different cars, different setups, and see what you want.

Most people are happy with a BB DET w/the t25 for a year or so after install. It is a easy swap that has been documented many times, there really is no guesswork to the install.

personally, the power whore in me would go for the gtir, naturally :)

david lau

Calum
03-13-2002, 05:23 PM
Three comments: First if you get a newer 97+ det with the factory front mount IC most importers don't sell it with the front mount IC included. If you plan to use an aftermarket IC anyways this isn't a big deal, but if not ask or get the top-mount style det. Second, good luck getting a used JWT ecu those sucker sell fast. Third, don't forget about budgiting for shipping.

Here's what I've paid so far, rounding the numbers:

det: 1800 including shipping
JWT ecu: 500
Downpipe: 175
Fuel pump: 125

And the stuff I'm in the process of buying:

Intercooler: 450 (Hopefully!)
New water pump and bearings: ask me next week
IC piping: ask me in a month

With installation, 4 grand is a good budget, depending on the install cost. Little things and while-your-at-its always come up, budget for 'em or be prepared to pay the credit-card bills. I'll post a complete list of my costs when its finished. :)

98sr20ve
03-13-2002, 09:24 PM
Unless you need a new engine try this out for size.
BRAND NEW
T28, GTIR MANIFOLD AND EVERYTHING 1200,
370 injectors New 400, Used 250
Price 1450-1600

No pulling engine. Yes I know the DET has some advantages but you can't argue with success. Many have made the DE a 300hp daily driver. You can safely do 230hp with this setup on street gas without changing the fuel pump. Combine this with the same stuff you put on a DET and you have a mid 13 second car easy. Also, and I have been told this by many, the daily drive is nicer BECAUSE of the higher compression engine having more power at low boost.

You still need the other stuff like intercooler, pipes and stuff but the cost is the same either way after that.

Shnoopz
03-13-2002, 09:33 PM
Cool, thanx for all the help everyone... Better start saving :D

98sr20ve
03-14-2002, 08:33 AM
LogicalRetard have you thought about getting the BB and then selling the T25 and stuff for about $600. I hear this is the going rate. Then buy the new stuff I listed. You end up with the BB long block and the new GTIR turbo and ex. manifold. You also have all the easy to get parts. You don't get the multiple throttle bodies. From a maintenance issue that might actually a blessing. On the street with a T28 I don't think a single throttle is really going to hold you back. The T28 max’s out at about 300 whp. Once you go past the 230-260whp mark you will need a fuel pump any way you go. Those sr20development hp figures are to the crank. All of mine are wheel hp. You can safely get a BB to 220whp or so. The GTIR is the 300whp or so properly done. Both engines are limited by there turbo's not the longblock strength or hardware. It would be real interesting to take a BB and a GTIR and put identical totally built FMAX kits on them and see what happened. My guess would be that the GTIR would ultimately be better because of the head and throttle bodies. At any sane street level it would be much less apparent but probably still noticeable. How much power do you really want? My suggestion is to decide that first, then research how to get there for the money spent.