My check engine light goes on at idle but when I rev the engine it goes on and off any ideas?
I am happy to say that I was able to get my car running again (after about a week and a half without my car) I have the car hooked up with my new digital 6 (had to use a tach adapter). Should I drive the car the way it is the car runs fine I took it around the block and feels good but I don't know if it will hurt anything.
I would like to thank everyone that help me out with install on my digital 6 I am honored to be part of this family.

Have you checked to see what code its throwing? How do you like the digital 6 btw?

Fastred--

What year is your car? This could be key to finding out what the problem could be. Let us know, and we'll try and help!

The computer is throwing 5 long 5 short it is all fine. My car is a 92. I am going to buy an 02 sensor as a process of elimination besides I did not replace that when I rebuilt the engine.
Greg I have not had a chance to see how good it really feels cause I found out buy looking at my air/fuel ratio and it says that it is running spurts of lean. Meaning when that Rpm's go high it will be normal to a little rich but will drop real quick to lean every sec.
I found out my problem why my car did not start and that was because I did not have my condensor/resistor hooked up ( I cut the wrong g/y when I installed my MSD the first time. Could it be that the reasong why my car is running lean is because I do not have it hooked up correctly I think I will try and cross wire it tomorrow or it would not have run if I did not have it hooked up right like last time. Should I have the condensor/resistor hooked up to the coil before it goes through the digital 6 maybe that could be a reason.
Well I am going to the store to buy a new cap and rotor and a new o2 sensor don't know for sure if that will solve anything but it needs it anyways. What is your gap at Greg with your setup and/or what gap should I use now that I have the new ignition?
thanks. Would my car be alright to drive the way it is if so how should I drive it so I don't mess anything up?

Originally posted by fastredse-r
I found out buy looking at my air/fuel ratio and it says that it is running spurts of lean. Meaning when that Rpm's go high it will be normal to a little rich but will drop real quick to lean every sec.

If you're using an Autometer A/F gauge and this happens while you're just cruising around (not at WOT), then ignore it. That's what your ecu is supposed to do: Stoich mix.....lean it out a tad....stoich mix....lean it out a tad. If you're showing a 'lean' condition at wide-open throttle (WOT), then STOP. You've got some kind of problem elsewhere.
Otherwise...the Autometer A/F isn't good for much. :(

Should I have the condensor/resistor hooked up to the coil before it goes through the digital 6 maybe that could be a reason.

Your Digital 6 will splice into the wiring between the resistor thingy and the coil. Your coil has a gray connector coming out of the bottom of it. Splice in your D6 about 2-4 inches from that gray connector. There's only the two wires in there, g/y and b/r.

As for spark plugs...I use BKR6Es (NGK) coppers, gapped around .030-.032. Your mileage may vary (YMMV).

Keep us posted. You'll get there. :)

-GP-

Greg,
I think it is a electrical thing don't have it narrowed down but like I said prior about the resistor/condensor I cut the wrong g/y so I actually had 4 g/y (after they were spliced) so if you can follow me I will try to say this the best that I can. Starting from the coil g/y goes to the orange digital 6 and goes straight to my now 3 g/y.
Now here is my thought maybe not all of the wires left should be hooked up together only two (which might be the problem) of them should be together. As a side note when it does run lean my lights dim ( I gound this out during the night ) that is why I am thinking that not all 3 g/y should be all together let me know if this makes any sense or I am a left field on this. Tomorrow I will put a new cap and rotor and a new o2 sensor I will keep you all posted.

Well here is what is going on with the car so far. I put my old MSD back on and the car is working fine. The weather here is taking a toll on my car my exhaust is being held on by just the rubber hanger (could that be why my check engine light goes on because of lack of sufficient I believe the word is blowback or back pressure well you get the point) so my car redlines normal has good pickup and go I still have not put the new parts on but that will be put on tomorrow. My check engine light did go on for a little bit and the light only goes on when my air/fuel ratio meter points to lean (that is why I think the light goes on along with my exhaust falling apart. I guess I need a new exhaust I will probably buy another thermal does not have that hi exhaust noise.

I changed my cap,rotor,and o2 sensor and the same thing is happening (check engine light going off and on when the meter points to the lean). I went ahead and changed my sparkplugs to my bkr7e (my old ones) and my check engine light does not go on anymore well at least from going around the block. When I put the rpm's up it does not have a steady rev noise it sounds like it is couging up flem just a very little bit but I can tell. The meter does not bump down to the lean anymore any ideas on what that could be thanks. I will keep you all updated on what is going on with the car. I will try again and hook the digital 6 up but before I do I will call MSD and see what is going on if I do need the tach adapter for my year of car and what not ( I have to hook up my adapter on my old ignition with using the magnetic pickup adapter)

Update on what is going on with my car. Whether I use my cold plugs or my platinum I guess depending on how the car feels the engine light will go on. I drove my wife and kids to the movies and the engine light was going on. When we left the movies the engine light did not go on (engine was cold). I know that it is something small but I think that I am going to go have a diagnostic check done on the car I will let you know what the outcome is.
Greg I did not read one of your post correctly at WOT my air/fuel ratio say that it is a little rich it is only when I am cruising at a steady speed it will do that (and of course when the car is still with the rpms up at a steady rate and at idle it will go off and on.) Is that something that I should worry about or don't even think of useing the NOS until I figure out what is going on. Thanks

That is exactly how your car is programmed to run. At WOT, you should be lighting the first rich light. Just cruising around with your foot on the throttle, then the car is always getting the correct mixture, then leaning it out.

You're fine. And that's all that the Autometer A/F gauge is worth, right there.

-GP-

Thanks for the reply Greg. I know that the gauge is suppose to go back and forth from lean-rich but what I don't understand is why when my check engine light goes on the gauge points to the lean and when it goes off from lean to stoich it will turn off. And sometimes the light does not even go on. It is like my car is confused.
Greg would you be able to answer my question on if it will be ok to run N.O.S. on the way my car is running?

After reading your last post, I would take a long, hard look at where you hooked in your A/F gauge wire on the oxygen sensor. With the CE light going on/off as the A/F lights go lean, I would *think* that there's a connection there.

Or, maybe a bad connection. Literally. :)

I cannot remember off the top of my head which wire on the oxygen sensor I hooked my A/F signal wire into. However, I can go look later on tonight and report back. We'll see if something doesn't jive here, then.

Until then, I'd lay off the nitrous just for safety's sake. We'll get this straightened out...

-GP-

I gave MSD a call and actually they told me the exact opposite on the installation of the wires still nothing I think that it is just a bad unit I am sending it back to summit and getting a new one. And if then it still does not work then I guess it was not meant to be.
I installed my 6A and all is fine I flicked the switch (N.O.S.) and all is well only hit it on first after 3000rpms I will check the plugs later to see how they look. I asked summit if they would give me a full refund if the second unit does not work and they were polite and said yes so either way I will be happy.
I am going to the dragstrip probably on Friday if everything goes right and I will try to get a better time this time I am going to use VHT (Greg how do you put yours on in the pit area or while on the staging lane)?

Well, if all else has failed, then maybe yes, it's a bad MSD box.

As for VHT...I've never used the stuff. I'm blessed with two decent tracks here. Not the greatest, but not bad, either.

-GP-